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Esharon 10-01-2013 08:30 PM

Electrical Help!!!
Hello everyone, I hope someone has some good advice. I recently plugged my 2011 32bhds into a 220v source in the garage. I thought it was 110 because the circuit had a 3 wire plug and was being used for an air compressor. Long story short, when I started up the a/c, a breaker popped in the panel on the camper. I then realized it was 220, but everything seemed to work once I reset the tripped breaker. Now, there is no charge going to the battery, and I cant seem to find any blown fuses or tripped breakers. As long as I have a battery charger on the battery, all is fine. Any help with what is wrong would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.....:(

Chakara 10-01-2013 09:30 PM

Can the camper run when on battery? If so I would guess that a fuse or component in your converter is blown. If not there may be an inline or other fuse you have not located yet near the battery....

Just guessing....


Esharon 10-01-2013 09:38 PM

So far, every fuse in the panel is good (the visible ones) and the one 30a outside is good. This one has me stumped. Even the RV place I bought from didn't seem to have a clue. Just trying everything I can see before the TT goes in to the dealer......Thanks!

3'senough 10-02-2013 12:50 PM

These units have over voltage protection, so it may reset once you have connected to 110V. There is a separate breaker for the converter in the panel and there are fuses in the front lower left corner of the panel for reverse voltage. You should disconnect the battery terminals and check the output at the terminal blocks to confirm if the converter is the problem. If the converter is working all your lights should be operational when connected to shore power and when the battery is disconnected. If this works your problem is between the battery and the converter, if not then you need to fix the converter most likely.

If the converter works then check the voltage on the battery terminals to confirm if the battery is the issue. You could have a dead short in it.

You can buy the converter separate of the panel and replace it.

Mustang65 10-02-2013 01:39 PM

Try resetting ALL the breakers in your panel 2x manually? A lot of the breakers do not reset on the initial reset. I am not sure as to how your control panel is wired, but here is how it is wired in my 2013 284BHS. The battery controller is tied in with the AC unit's breaker. Try resetting it a couple times, or you may need to replace the breaker. I am not sure as to how much experience you have with working with AC, but if you are not real good at it, leave it to a qualified tech. What type of power distribution panel do you have? I have the Progressive Dynamics PD 4000, which has the good trouble shooting section in the manual.
Does the AC work?

frieed 10-02-2013 03:15 PM

don't forget to get that outlet for the compressor changed to a proper 220V outlet type.

msturtz 10-02-2013 04:12 PM

I seriously doubt that electrical items have protection against 120V on the neutral and opposite phase 120V on the hot line which is what you get if you plug into a 3 wire 240V outlet. All of the neutral lines are bussed together in every panel I have seen. The breakers only operate on the hot side. The net effect of this is that every device would have seen 120V neutral to ground (bad as there should be no voltage differential between these legs) and 240V line to neutral (also bad because this should be only 120V). Breakers and fuses protect against overcurrent including shorts circuits. What probably popped the breaker when the AC was turned on the AC drew too much current because of the out of phase power because the motor is wired for 120V phase to neutral. The motor would simply been unable to start and drew too much current and popped with the breaker.

tnchuck100 10-02-2013 07:16 PM

This is one of those occasions when I usually keep quiet and not try to help after so much well meaning misinformation has already been posted. This time I have made an exception.

msturtz has given the best assessment so far.

First, there is no inherent voltage protection in your RV. This CAN be added though an EMS device.

If your system has been subjected to 240 V virtually everything has been subjected to excessive voltage. This can be everything from the converter to the refrigerator control board and air conditioner. EVERY electrically operated or controlled device will have to be evaluated independently to determine the full extent of your damage. There is no simple answer.

Please, as frieed suggests, get rid of that miswired outlet.

msturtz 10-02-2013 07:38 PM

I plug my RV into a autoformer which does in fact prevent over voltage. It would likely burn out the autoformer but would prevent damage to the RV. Also, most - but not all - surge suppressors can protect from this type of mis-wiring.

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