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Old 12-07-2014, 05:12 PM   #141
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Checked the four bolts on the A/C today of our 2014 Greyhawk. All four were properly tightened at the factory. I will definitely check them annually to allow for gasket compression.

I recall my parents' had a lot of trouble with leaks around the roof A/C on their Pace Arrow in the early 80s. Never understood why it had a perfectly flat roof which immediately began to sag from the A/C weight.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:08 PM   #142
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Are U tightening the bolts through the inside or outside on top of the cowling ??
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:12 AM   #143
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From the inside just take the cover off and you have 4 corner bolts.
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:46 PM   #144
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From the inside just take the cover off and you have 4 corner bolts.
To get the interior cover off of my unit, there are five screws that must be removed. First, rotate the large flat-bladed screw head on the A/C filter bracket and remove the filter. That exposes a single small screw in the center of the A/C unit. That center screw and the four corner screws need to be removed to pull the interior A/C cover off. Once it is off, you will see the four corner screws as noted by Tunce which are the ones that snug the rooftop A/C down on the gasket.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:28 PM   #145
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Thumbs up

"Roamer", now that's the correct answer to his question and everyone else should follow these instructions.
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:39 PM   #146
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Are the whisper quiet systems exempt from this problem? Does it still affect the second AC.

Have not seen any recent posts on this so I am wondering if Jayco has resolved this issue in their newer models.

Feed back welcome.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:59 PM   #147
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On the whisper quiet, you gain one thing, but lose a lot more. You gain the quiet AC, BUT, you lose easier access to bolts from the inside, have possible stripped lag bolts, possible leaks without knowing quick enough etc. I haven't seen a Jayco specific install on this method, but have on a lot of others (Tiffin and Vanleigh to name a few). 4 lag type bolts from the top, and I would imagine Jayco is no different. I think it's a crappy design for a few reasons, but it still works. With the typical installation where you can see everything inside, you can inspect the compression gasket and bolt torque very easily. With the whisper quiet, you have to get up on the roof, remove the cover, take the intake box cover off etc etc. And then, the gasket is not all that easy to inspect, if at all. Another downside on the whisper quiet topside install, if you ever strip a lag bolt into your roof framing, you're gonna have issues coming up with a plan B to get the AC secured. If you decide not to check your whisper quiet system for gasket compression or bolt tightness, which can be difficult to say the least, then you won't know if there is a leak until you see water coming out of your vents and / or ceiling. By then it's too late.


You just have to weigh your options. The old noisier typical install is superior to me, but that's just me, having worked on plenty of them. I'm so opposite of most. I don't care about whisper quiet, I hate skylights, less windows is better, and on my list goes. BUT, I work on them myself, a lot, and we have full timed in 1, lived in 3. We know what works for us.
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:08 PM   #148
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On the whisper quiet, you gain one thing, but lose a lot more. You gain the quiet AC, BUT, you lose easier access to bolts from the inside, have possible stripped lag bolts, possible leaks without knowing quick enough etc. I haven't seen a Jayco specific install on this method, but have on a lot of others (Tiffin and Vanleigh to name a few). 4 lag type bolts from the top, and I would imagine Jayco is no different. I think it's a crappy design for a few reasons, but it still works. With the typical installation where you can see everything inside, you can inspect the compression gasket and bolt torque very easily. With the whisper quiet, you have to get up on the roof, remove the cover, take the intake box cover off etc etc. And then, the gasket is not all that easy to inspect, if at all. Another downside on the whisper quiet topside install, if you ever strip a lag bolt into your roof framing, you're gonna have issues coming up with a plan B to get the AC secured. If you decide not to check your whisper quiet system for gasket compression or bolt tightness, which can be difficult to say the least, then you won't know if there is a leak until you see water coming out of your vents and / or ceiling. By then it's too late.


You just have to weigh your options. The old noisier typical install is superior to me, but that's just me, having worked on plenty of them. I'm so opposite of most. I don't care about whisper quiet, I hate skylights, less windows is better, and on my list goes. BUT, I work on them myself, a lot, and we have full timed in 1, lived in 3. We know what works for us.
Thanks for the heads up. Sounds like I may want to consider replacing the lag bolts immediately with studs that accept nuts and washers and some two part epoxy, if accessable.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:16 PM   #149
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That was one thing I had a long discussion on with Vanleigh. They have a nice aluminum intake / exhaust box in the ceiling, but the AC is lag bolted into that. They also have a lot more features that are superior to Jayco, yet are at a similar price point, but I won't hijack this thread with that. I suggested a welded in nut or thread to accept a shorter version of the oem bolts where there is less risk of stripping anything out. I wish I had more experience with the Jayco install, as it may be a little different, but I've only owned one Jayco and hadn't done as much research with them. Beings we're looking at a Northpoint, I guess I better start questioning them a little, or make another trip to Indiana. The concept of the AC is good, the install leaves a little bit to be desired.
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Old 12-30-2015, 08:26 PM   #150
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My Jayco repair guys used Locktite on the bolts when this happened to me a couple years back. I've checked them 2-3 times since then and all 4 have remained tight. Surprised Jayco doesn't just do this at the plant.
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Old 02-24-2016, 02:21 PM   #151
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A/C Bolts that are loose, many affected

I have had 3 rigs, 2 weren't Jayco and all the AC's were secured the same way. The place it attaches is more like thin metal and the "bolts" are more like long screws.
Biggest mistake you can make is to wrench them down to tight. They just need to be snug enough to seal the rubber gasket and checked every season.

There is another current thread on this , a sticky thread and gobs of threads on every forum about it.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:04 PM   #152
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A/C gasket vs sealant

Can anyone explain to me why the A/C uses a gasket to seal instead of a positive sealant like dicor or butyl tape? seems to me the foam gasket is the least reliable system of sealing they could come up with.

I am just about to reseal my A/c after extensive water damage and rebuilding a major portion of my 23B's roof... I raised the area the A/c goes to allow for some sag in the roof, and am going to eternabond tape the hole where the roof membrane was cut...but I still do not see the advantage of using a foam gasket over laying a bed of sealant down.

Just looking for an explanation from the RV gurus on here...any one ever use something better then a gasket?
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:43 PM   #153
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Im going to eternabond tape the hole where the roof membrane was cut...
That should have been done at the factory in the first place, shame on Jayco for this one!
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:45 PM   #154
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My mount bolts were loose and tightened them down 3 years ago and check them every spring and have not had to do it since. I do keep mine inside during non use but it is out about 12-14 weeks so it does get the weather but not as much as one that sits out all the time. Not sure why the gasket, probably easier and faster...
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Old 09-19-2017, 04:26 PM   #155
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Can anyone explain to me why the A/C uses a gasket to seal instead of a positive sealant like dicor or butyl tape?

Just looking for an explanation from the RV gurus on here...any one ever use something better then a gasket?
Because that is what has been used for years (first a/c I installed in 1977 had the foam gasket) without issue. I have never had a leak on 8 different units.

If Dicor or other type sealants were used replacing an a/c unit without tearing up the roof would be impossible.
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:25 PM   #156
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Makes sense we have not had a problem either since 2005!
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:30 PM   #157
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Replaced mine gasket after the first sign of water intrusion. Installed 1/2 x 2" ply under the roof material and then the gasket so water intrusion can be avoided.
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:48 PM   #158
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snip..... I raised the area the A/c goes to allow for some sag in the roof,......snip
Sounds like you may have an older 23B, if so, they were notorious for water pooling around the A/C due to the flat roofs. IMO the roof would "settle" a little around the A/C as time passed....., my BIL's 23B did.

If your rebuilding a good portion of an older 23B's roof, may want to consider getting rid of the TPO roofing material "if" it has the fleece backing, the fleece just wicks moisture everywhere once it's been compromised.

Bob
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:40 PM   #159
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IMO the weight of the ac bouncing around on the roof while traveling would compromise any type of caulk sealant. Also the vibration of the unit would be transferred all over the rig when it was running. Maybe they just did it the right way.

I have never had one leak in 5 rigs with roof ac. Only one I ever had to tighten was my last one and only once.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:30 PM   #160
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That is exactly what I plan on doing... My only reason to question is I have been in the marine industry for years...we install everything with sealant...even above the waterline... I have never heard of using a piece of foam to properly seal anything...since the Rv roof is non-solid (styrofoam core) I can see the potential of sheering the core with too much load oscillation, but why a foam gasket with no adhesive...nothing actually seals to the roofing membrane.

My A/C was tight, the gasket was about 1/2 compressed...but it was still evident there was water seeping underneath it...destroyed the roof but never leaked a drop in the RV!

Has anyone ever sealed the gasket to the roof deck as well as stick it to the AC? if so...what did you use and was it successful.

I plan on raising the ac hole 1/2" and replacing about 16 sf of roof deck. Yes, I have the felt back roofing, but at this time I am not equipped to replace it...I only want to give it a good fix and move on. I am using 1/4" Marine grade ply, and will epoxy all wood I am leaving in as well as whatever I am putting in new.
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