I would be very concerned with the voltages you saw if you don't believe that you misread the 133v or have a bad meter. One thought I have regarding your 133v reading is that the voltage coming into the RV at the pedestal went up to 133v and by the time you went back and checked the surge protector voltage it was back down. I would suggest if you don't have one, purchase a plug in voltage meter and plug it into an outlet near wherever you spend the most time in the RV and keep an eye on it whenever you walk by or think about it. Not to go deep, but there are certain conditions with poor or loose wiring connections from the pedestal to its source that can cause higher voltages that can be up one moment and down (way down) the next moment and then settle back, but with a loose connection it generally will get worse instead of better.
Which surge protector do you have? You really need an "EMS" surge protector, as if the voltage of 133 was not a misreading then it could go much higher, so high that it could cause costly damage to your RV converter, wiring, microwave, almost everything... A/C for sure. An EMS will shut off the power before the voltage would get that high as well as protect for other similar concerns. I have the Progressive 30 hardwired but they sell one that you connected at the pedestal, which maybe the style you already have.
Regarding your refrigerator, if you do have issues with it again, check for a flashing LED on the display and count the flashes. Here is something to know though and I suspect this is what you are seeing, the Norcold has a defrost timer that triggers a defrost cycle right at 48~50 hours after the last defrost cycle and a defrost cycle last 2~4 hours (I have read reports of 6 hours). There is no heating element (as a home fridge) so it takes a quite while, temps go way to high inside the fridge and freezer, and is a poor design imo. Also keep in mind that when this occurs it is not random but also never the same time of the day. I never noticed this issue for a few years as I suspect the defrost cycle hit at night. Also, the defrost doesn't actually defrost the freezer much if any at all, but it will defrost the fins in the refrigerator if they are coated in ice. Not too mention, the defrost cycle gets the refrigerator fairly warm (on my N8x) and takes forever, hours and hours to get it back cool again (at least to the <40 degree safe zone).
The Good News is that if you will turn off and back on the refrigerator every morning for just a minute or two, the timer will reset and therefore will never hit a defrost cycle. That is what I suggest you do being a camp host and knowing what can happen if you don't keep your food <40 degrees. If the coils ever do ice over (as they certainly can and will in humid conditions) then you would be much better off to turn off the fridge and use a hairdryer and defrost it as quickly as possible and then turn it back on, evening time would be better for a faster recovery. Beware not to overheat anything though. btw, some icing isn't an issue, the issue is with a lot of icing. If you see light or partial icing on the fins then that is not really an issue where defrosting is needed.
I don't have any specific thoughts on your front tires being up in the air other than I would be a bit uncomfortable doing that long term and instead would try to pull forward or reverse to flatter ground, and then if needed use some ramps to get as close to level as possible and then deploy the leveling jacks, that way some of the weight is still on the tires and suspension. (you may want to start a new thread regarding the jacks and leveling as perhaps someone with your same setup could provide specific information). ~CA
