15 Seneca keyless entry

mikew968

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2015
Posts
452
I read the instructions, set the new combo and sometimes it works and mostly not. Anybody else have issues?
 
Ours in a royal pain. using the same button for two different numbers one on each side We think is the problem. Sometimes not matter how hard you try to get the numbers in there right it picks up the wrong number and will not open. We just don't use it. Key only. Have heard where some locked themselves out using the key less entry and had the not had a key his would not have gotten without help.
 
Had some issues with mine when I bought the coach. I replaced the entire lock. I have found you can't get in a big hurry when punching the key pad. My wife is more patient than I am, so she never has any problems with it. I have hidden a door key just in case we do have trouble with the lock.
 
Problems with ours too. Usually can't get the lock to light up so we can enter code. Then when we do get to enter the code doesn't lock/unlock. Didn't think there was a left and right to the keys, just one key for both numbers reducing possible codes. I think (but could be wrong) that code 1-1-1-1 is the same as 2-2-2-2 is the same as 1-2-1-2… you get the idea. Will have to do some research - no manual provided by Jayco.
 
I don't have a Seneca but it could be the same keyless entry. I put my finger in the first digit and wait for a second until the keypad wakes up and accepts the digit. When I enter the rest of the digits it works pretty much every time.
 
2JayBirds, just read the Bauer "manual" and my prior post is correct - a 1 and 2 are the same key.
 
Yes and every code we came up with that my husband could easily remember used at least two of number pads twice because of shared numbers. No matter what we try it hardly ever opens right. So we just use the key and keep one hid on the outside just in case.
 
Uh-oh, I am trying to get my local dealer and Jayco to install this "new-style" Bauer lock on my 2014 to replace the separate Dexter keypad and Bauer latch. I have had continuous problems with the old-style keypad and latch, I am on my 4th keypad (it is non-functional now too!) and second latch/actuator assembly. Jayco Service and dealer are scratching their collective heads on my unit I guess. But it looks like the new battery-equipped version isn't doing so great either!

We all paid for a system that should work reliably. Yes, you can just use your key. But if someone had a new car where the remotes didn't work reliably, would everyone just want to use the key every time to get in? Not me. I carry the same logic forward to the unit I paid many more times a car's price and I want it to work as advertised!
 
Seneca Remote Entry

Bought a used 2014 36FK and the dealer did the recall thing on the keyless entry before delivery. Less than two weeks later and 1500 miles from home I got locked out. I called Jayco and told them the story. Being away from my selling dealer I wanted to wait until returned home and they agreed and opened a repair ticket. After I returned home my dealer called Jayco and the result is going to be a new door and locking system.
 
If the replacement is the Bauer EM then don't hold your breath and carry your keys at all times. Mine fails to work most of the time. What particularly bothers me is that when you pull on the locked door it opens a bit to where the latch pins are slightly exposed. Does everyone have this same experience?
Dealer saying they can't fix that.
 
We got locked in early on when the locking chamber froze. Had to dismantle the lock from inside the unit. Bauer sent a new unit and no real problems since. Does go through batteries rather quickly but then we are out in our unit at least once a month so it gets a lot for use. We just keep spare batteries handy. Ours has lost its code a couple times but we just reprogram that. We do keep a key handy also.
 
Yep, mine will come partly open when I pull on the door when it is locked. It will also come partly open when traveling down the road! Is their a recall on any of these issues?
 
Walt our's opens a bit as you described also. Another reason we decided to just use our keys. May decide to get it looked at before our warranty goes out though.
 
Our Seneca 37 TS has never come open while going down the road but we do lock it when traveling and get in and out the driver and passenger doors. Just do that in case we make a stop where we both get out and go inside a store or restaurant or something. One less door to worry about locking. With all the vehicle thefts taking place every where we don't trust anyone or anyplace when on the road.
 
My electric lock has worked fine after it was replaced by the dealer shortly after purchase. BUT, knowing it might fail, or a fuse may blow, I do keep a spare key hidden under on the frame. And btw, the fuse that controls that lock is one of those two, located behind the coach battery.
 
Keyless entry issues Seneca

I read the instructions, set the new combo and sometimes it works and mostly not. Anybody else have issues?

I have found when I enter the codes I need to keep my finger on the entry (when opening) or entries (locking) and by doing that it does what I ask. I did have to replace the factory batteries even though my unit is a 2015 TS and was maybe 4 months old.
PS
Programming was not easy until I read the procedure a couple times, then it worked
 
We have a 2014 Jayco Seneca 37TS. Keyless pad has never worked. Am I understanding correctly that we need to check the fuse and batteries? Where are the batteries? And where can I find instructions to reprogram, if we get it working. Thanks everyone.
 
We have a 2014 Jayco Seneca 37TS. Keyless pad has never worked. Am I understanding correctly that we need to check the fuse and batteries? Where are the batteries? And where can I find instructions to reprogram, if we get it working. Thanks everyone.

If your rig still has the original separate (from the latch) touch keypad, it uses the chassis batteries of the rig to supply power to the keypad and the latch. My 2014 has (had) spring-loaded contact "pins" in the hinge side of my entry door that, when door closed, allowed power to flow from the rig into the entry door. When door opened, connection was broken. You could only "lock" and "unlock" the door when fully closed.

The keypad was made by TriMark, but that system was not used long on our rigs before it was replaced by a latch with integrated keypad and internal batteries. I can tell you my experience, I had numerous examples of the TriMark keypad fail, the first when my rig was just months old. Eventually my dealer replaced it 3 times, and the 4th keypad they installed actually caught fire and damaged my door while it was at the dealer! Jayco ended up replacing my entire entry door assembly (painted to match) at the Factory Service Center in Middlebury and installed the more modern integrated keypad/latch.

But there have been a few owners that did not have my issues, and whose TriMark keypad apparently still works. So attached are the instructions which tell you how to erase any existing lock codes and then enter your own, provided the keypad still works.
 

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  • TriMark keypad.jpg
    TriMark keypad.jpg
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  • 540-0125_Rev2.pdf
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  • Tri Mark keypad instructions.pdf
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We have a 2014 Jayco Seneca 37TS. Keyless pad has never worked. Am I understanding correctly that we need to check the fuse and batteries? Where are the batteries? And where can I find instructions to reprogram, if we get it working. Thanks everyone.

And I neglected to mention that the fuse for the power to the assembly was located in my battery compartment, on my '14 it was an inline glass fuse assembly. When mine was still present that fuse would blow and the system would stop functioning. I would replace the fuse, but as soon as I touched a button on the keypad again the fuse would blow. The dealer thought it might be a bad latch, so they ordered and replaced the latch too, but same issue. They were able to bench-test both latch assemblies and they worked fine, both new and the original. It was the keypads themselves.

To see if there is any possibility of your system working as intended, first make sure you still have the spring-loaded power contacts in the hinge area of your entry door. They were located about 18" above the door sill if memory serves.

Good luck, let us know what you find out.
 
It works perfect!!! Thank you for the instructions. I did hide a key outside, just in case. Thank you for always providing great suggestions and feedback!!!
 

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