1st Gen Seneca Solar Install

[grdsman]

36MS. How are you running solar wires down? The fridge is in the slide, so no vent to use. I've thought about securing conduit channel along the awning rail. Currently, the only roof penetration is at the very front where the dish antenna wires go through, but I don't believe there is a way to continue from that front cap area down to the basement. Thoughts?

 

[Rustynuts]

Another common route to run wires is down a gray plumbing vent pipe. If you access to one, drill a hole in the side of it up as high as you can get. Remove the vent cap on the roof and fish a wire up to the roof and out the vent and pull your new wiring down the vent pipe and out the hole you drilled and then seal the hole up with a good sealant. Another place is to drill into a cabinet or closet. Mine came with solar prep but wanted to split into two arrays and chargers and after careful measuring, determined that under the existing roof Jack, I could drill right into the bedroom closet and run everything down through there.

 

[grdsman]

I'll have to take a look at that option tomorrow!

 

[RVermont]

As Rustynuts said any full height cabinets work as great wire chases. Also the rear caps are usually just a plastic or fiber glass cover. This is where the majority of the wiring gets to the roof as the put the cap on after all the walls and wiring is completed. I added some electronics and used the bath cabinet to run the wires down to the basement where I then routed them to the battery bay.

 

[grdsman]

As Rustynuts said any full height cabinets work as great wire chases. Also the rear caps are usually just a plastic or fiber glass cover. This is where the majority of the wiring gets to the roof as the put the cap on after all the walls and wiring is completed. I added some electronics and used the bath cabinet to run the wires down to the basement where I then routed them to the battery bay.

I truly appreciate the feedback. I was considering flexible panels because I wasn't too keen on putting holes in the roof. I'm reconsidering......what is your method for roof-mounts? I know that we have aluminum trusses, so we have to be careful on the screw material if going into them. Are you just direct screwing into the roof structure or are you using a compressable mounting nut?

 

[Rustynuts]

From pics I have seen, the early Seneca roofs are built the same as the current. There are aluminum rafters but not very many, on 7, I have attached a pic of the frame on mine. You should be able to remove the trim ring around an AC unit or roof vent and see what the final layers are but it should be the 1/16” fiberglass skin and 2.7mm Lauan over foam and the aluminum frame, so unless you mount full length raiIs down the roof, attaching to the few aluminum rafters would be hard. Some people use Wellnuts but that takes about a 3/8” hole for each one. I just screwed right through the Fiberglass/Lauan layer and used Dicor self leveling sealer under the panel mounts and then over the entire mount. One key thing is to pilot drill for the screws with the proper sized bit and final tighten the screws by hand so you don’t strip them out which is easy to do with a drill.

 

[grdsman]

From pics I have seen, the early Seneca roofs are built the same as the current. There are aluminum rafters but not very many, on 7, I have attached a pic of the frame on mine. You should be able to remove the trim ring around an AC unit or roof vent and see what the final layers are but it should be the 1/16” fiberglass skin and 2.7mm Lauan over foam and the aluminum frame, so unless you mount full length raiIs down the roof, attaching to the few aluminum rafters would be hard. Some people use Wellnuts but that takes about a 3/8” hole for each one. I just screwed right through the Fiberglass/Lauan layer and used Dicor self leveling sealer under the panel mounts and then over the entire mount. One key thing is to pilot drill for the screws with the proper sized bit and final tighten the screws by hand so you don’t strip them out which is easy to do with a drill.

Nice work! I've mapped out 1200 watts of space on the roof and plan on using 3M tape under each mount, as well as screws with dicor in/around them. I've got the first 600 watts of panels in and am waiting on the rest to arrive. I'll be running a 3s2P configuration at about 75 volts and 22 amps on a Victron 100/50. I'm moving my house batteries to the first bay behind the entry door. They'll be in a box (which I built today) so that I can climate control them with small 12 volt 100 watt heaters on a thermostat. I opted for unheated batteries since they only heat while they are charging. I want to be able to heat them at night, as well. I'm installing 460Ah of LiTime batteries. Our last rig was set up like this and I can't be without it again. It's just too nice to be able to boondock as if you are plugged in. My biggest problem right now is still where to run the solar wire down.

 

[repeach]

I have one of these from Amazon with a 2 inch round hole directly into the cabinet above the microwave. I am currently using 3 of the 4 cable inlets. It is sealed with lots of lap caulk.

Winegard CE-4000 Cable Entry Plate,White Large​

 

[Grumpy]

My biggest problem right now is still where to run the solar wire down.

Have you thought about coming in above the 1/2 bath linen cupboard and then use wire mold in the corner behind the toilet. With your water line there it should get you into the basement.

 

[grdsman]

Have you thought about coming in above the 1/2 bath linen cupboard and then use wire mold in the corner behind the toilet. With your water line there it should get you into the basement.

Great idea! I’ll check that out.

 

[tpastorini]

Grdsman. Let me know which way you went. I have a 2014 37TS and am about to mount 4 panels on the roof.

 

[grdsman]

I have a totally different layout, but I decided on coming in above the cabinet to the left of the entry door. I will then route it down the wall behind the chair, covered with conduit. The floor in mine, just below the cabinet, goes straight to the standard battery tray bay. From there, I just have to route it to the new battery bay, which is to the rear of the entry door. I'll be adding a 4th 200 watt panel on my next free day with good weather (2S 2P, so 46 volts and 17 amps).

 

[grdsman]

Got the 4th 200watt panel installed today and wiring ran through the roof and through the cabinet in front of the door, and behind the lounge chair. Running 2S/2P. Pulling a hair over 700 watts, which is all it will do with this 50 amp mppt. Time for a 150/70, or switch to 24v with a new inverter and 24/12 dc-dc converter?