2017 Jayflight 28BHBE mods

[jlechmanik]

Some pictures on mods.

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[jlechmanik]

Trying to get ideas on how to beef up the front half of the bed. It is only supported by the front rail and the new divider. Seems to be too little. Looking for ideas on how to run supports from the front rail to the new divider.

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[jlechmanik]

Also looking for ideas on a battery switch mount. I found this box and cover that I can mount the switch in. But looking on how to mount it. I could use U'bolts to mount it to the frame. I'm not sure drilling the frame and using machine screws is a great idea. Any suggestions?

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[sundancer330]

Also looking for ideas on a battery switch mount. I found this box and cover that I can mount the switch in. But looking on how to mount it. I could use U'bolts to mount it to the frame. I'm not sure drilling the frame and using machine screws is a great idea. Any suggestions?

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I would just use a few small self tapping screws, make the job cleaner looking.

 

[Need A Vacation]

Do you plan on ever adding a second battery? If not, check out my mods link for my battery switch pics. I bought a larger battery box, and mounted a Blue Sea Mini Switch in it. The switch faces the trailer to try to hide it some.

I still haven’t done anything to help support the bed yet. Maybe one of these days. Hard part is I don’t want to loose any storage as we use about every inch of the pass through and under the bed.

 

[blderman]

Trying to get ideas on how to beef up the front half of the bed. It is only supported by the front rail and the new divider. Seems to be too little. Looking for ideas on how to run supports from the front rail to the new divider.

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Glue and screw a 2x2 frame to the plywood and then install a rail on the wall and the divider you installed to support the 2x2 frame. That would make it plenty strong.



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[jlechmanik]

Do you plan on ever adding a second battery? If not, check out my mods link for my battery switch pics. I bought a larger battery box, and mounted a Blue Sea Mini Switch in it. The switch faces the trailer to try to hide it some.

I still haven’t done anything to help support the bed yet. Maybe one of these days. Hard part is I don’t want to loose any storage as we use about every inch of the pass through and under the bed.

Already has two batteries. Not planning on adding a third.

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[jlechmanik]

Glue and screw a 2x2 frame to the plywood and then install a rail on the wall and the divider you installed to support the 2x2 frame. That would make it plenty strong.



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Interesting. Not sure what is behind the panelling on the front wall, or how thick it is. I like your idea, any ideas about drilling into the front wall?

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[Need A Vacation]

Already has two batteries. Not planning on adding a third.

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Didn’t look at the pic that close.... The switch is able to be mounted to the side of the battery box. Guess it would be considered surface mounted.

Didn’t think you would add a third battery.

 

[jlechmanik]

Didn’t look at the pic that close.... The switch is able to be mounted to the side of the battery box. Guess it would be considered surface mounted.

Didn’t think you would add a third battery.

Looked over the pictures and I need to check my battery box. I didn't think there would be room to mount the battery switch to it. If so, that would be way cleaner... Unfortunately my TT is in a covered storage 22 mikes away. So I will have to check it later... [emoji41]

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[oldmanAZ]

Trying to get ideas on how to beef up the front half of the bed. It is only supported by the front rail and the new divider. Seems to be too little. Looking for ideas on how to run supports from the front rail to the new divider.

On our bed, I added a removable center divider to support the bed platform. The center divider is roughly at the center of the bed (and the center of gravity/center mass of those in the bed) so it supports the majority of the load.

IMO, if you believe the front half needs more support, consider just having a thicker plywood platform for the front half. I considered that for our TT, but after adding the center support, it doesn't seem necessary. Not sure about any support lumber under your bed platform, but our dealer replaced the factory bed platform support lumber(1x2s? laid flat under the plywood) with 2x3s on edge under the plywood when we complained about the bed sagging.

 

[jlechmanik]

On our bed, I added a removable center divider to support the bed platform. The center divider is roughly at the center of the bed (and the center of gravity/center mass of those in the bed) so it supports the majority of the load.

IMO, if you believe the front half needs more support, consider just having a thicker plywood platform for the front half. I considered that for our TT, but after adding the center support, it doesn't seem necessary. Not sure about any support lumber under your bed platform, but our dealer replaced the factory bed platform support lumber(1x2s? laid flat under the plywood) with 2x3s on edge under the plywood when we complained about the bed sagging.

The center support adds support, but if you split the bed and hinge at the center support instead of the top it completely weakens the top. One of the downsides. Changing to a split is cleaner but then takes away from the stability of a single plywood bed support. Kind of a win some loose some kind of deal...

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[Need A Vacation]

Looked over the pictures and I need to check my battery box. I didn't think there would be room to mount the battery switch to it. If so, that would be way cleaner... Unfortunately my TT is in a covered storage 22 mikes away. So I will have to check it later... [emoji41]

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With the larger batter box there was enough room to actually recess the switch in it. A standard bix you could just run screws into the side and surface mount the switch.

Understand the storage deal:!we used to keep our rig about 10 minutes away. Luckily it was free, it still a pain to get ready for trips!!! So glad we got a new house with room to keep it at the house.

 

[shrpshtr]

jlechmanik,

On the bed support, I'd evenly reinforce the existing head-end rail with screws (if not already in place). The exterior wall should have 2"x2" studs. With the depth of the existing rail, you should be safe with 2.5"-3" screws directly into those studs. Then I'd space cross-members evenly between the head-end and the new divider wall top rail. (3-4 cross members should be more than enough but you could really go 16" OC if your bed will double as a dance floor ) I like split 2x4's (1.5" x 1.6875" actual) to cut down on the weight. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use 2"x2" L brackets (just like the t-brackets in your pic) bent to proper angle to mount them to the top rails. You should be able to screw the vertical side of the L bracket into the same stud you reinforced the head-end top rail in to while the horizontal side will mount to the bottom of the cross member.

This setup would not use up any additional storage space and accommodate more weight than you can physically put on there under normal usage scenarios.

hth!

shrp

 

[jlechmanik]

With the larger batter box there was enough room to actually recess the switch in it. A standard bix you could just run screws into the side and surface mount the switch.

Understand the storage deal:!we used to keep our rig about 10 minutes away. Luckily it was free, it still a pain to get ready for trips!!! So glad we got a new house with room to keep it at the house.

With my Jayco Greyhawk 26DS we kept it in storage about 5 minutes away, then brought it home and put it in the driveway to prep for trips. The new Jayflight 28BHBE is too long to fit in the driveway. I have no idea how we will prep for trips. The sad part is my house has extra driveway along the side of the house. Excellent for additional cars, boats or trailers. But for tall vehicles they will hit the gutters. Also our storages out here have a backed up waiting list which is why I was lucky to find that one even though it is that far away. But at least it is covered.

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[jlechmanik]

Well the pass through storage /bed support project is almost done but I hit a hiccup. As you can see I reinforced the bed support, put a one piece sanded plywood plank across (which I used to beef up the new mid bed support), even cut some insulation to fill in before installing the new wall. But I'm stuck on the bottom of the bed.

The lid is done and I reinforced it with a 2×2 box which lined up with the old support on the old bed. Connected the pneumatic shocks to test it before installing the hinge. I tried lifting up the bed and it wouldn't budge. It even felt like the 2×2 where the shock is connected was going to pull off. The shock was mounted in the same position so I'm not sure if I need too beef up the under bed frame so it is connected to the bed better. Get lighter weight shocks (I can not budge these by hand) or just build some kind of kickstand to hold it up.

Suggestions?

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[jlechmanik]

Well the pass through storage /bed support project is almost done but I hit a hiccup. As you can see I reinforced the bed support, put a one piece sanded plywood plank across (which I used to beef up the new mid bed support), even cut some insulation to fill in before installing the new wall. But I'm stuck on the bottom of the bed.

The lid is done and I reinforced it with a 2×2 box which lined up with the old support on the old bed. Connected the pneumatic shocks to test it before installing the hinge. I tried lifting up the bed and it wouldn't budge. It even felt like the 2×2 where the shock is connected was going to pull off. The shock was mounted in the same position so I'm not sure if I need too beef up the under bed frame so it is connected to the bed better. Get lighter weight shocks (I can not budge these by hand) or just build some kind of kickstand to hold it up.

Suggestions?

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Update, found out I know nothing about pneumatic risers. I had it installed backwards and upside-down [emoji853]. Looking forward to getting back to work on it....

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[trashman]

Hello all, i have thought about LOWERING the bed platform so i could install a TALLER 10 inch memory foam mattress in place of the 8 inch factory mattress (a ten inch mattress would be quite of a climb). Or even RAISING the floor around the base of the bed platform. Or making the bedframe base longer so a regular queen matress would fit. ( there is a heater duct at the base of the bed that would have to be rerouted, or the bed would be heated from the bottom.

Has anyone thought of those bed mods?

 

[Atlee]

Lowering the bed platform would be quite an extensive mod. Either building a platform to stand on, or buying step would be much simpler and less expensive.

I have a 10" memory foam mattress. It's high, but I have not much problem getting in it. My wife has a short step stool on her side of the bed for use in getting on the bed, or hanging clothes in the wardrobe.

Hello all, i have thought about LOWERING the bed platform so i could install a TALLER 10 inch memory foam mattress in place of the 8 inch factory mattress (a ten inch mattress would be quite of a climb). Or even RAISING the floor around the base of the bed platform. Or making the bedframe base longer so a regular queen matress would fit. ( there is a heater duct at the base of the bed that would have to be rerouted, or the bed would be heated from the bottom.

Has anyone thought of those bed mods?

 

[DC8Captain]

Hello all, i have thought about LOWERING the bed platform so i could install a TALLER 10 inch memory foam mattress in place of the 8 inch factory mattress (a ten inch mattress would be quite of a climb). Or even RAISING the floor around the base of the bed platform. Or making the bedframe base longer so a regular queen matress would fit. ( there is a heater duct at the base of the bed that would have to be rerouted, or the bed would be heated from the bottom.

Has anyone thought of those bed mods?

We put a 3" topper on our 8" factory mattress and also use a little step stool to get into bed.