2017 Redhawk 29XK Battery wiring.

[tptools]

Going to add solar and lithium. Looking for any pictures or wiring diagrams for what is originally/currently wired to the house Battery in the slide out tray?

 

[KKTrave]

Call Jayco Motorized Service at 1 800 283 8267 and have your VIN ready. They will email you wiring diagrams and schematics upon request.

 

[Grumpy]

Call Jayco Motorized Service at 1 800 283 8267 and have your VIN ready. They will email you wiring diagrams and schematics upon request.

2017? Maybe or maybe not that's getting close to the file purge.

 

[JimD]

I have attached the wiring diagram from my 2017 Greyhawk which probably is close to yours. I added a second battery in the compartment next to the battery slide out and solar. For my solar I routed the wires down the fridge vent and under the rig (in spiral wrap) to the cabinet with the 2nd battery. Mounted the solar controller in the same cabinet. Works like a champ.

 

[pconroy]

Going to add solar and lithium. Looking for any pictures or wiring diagrams for what is originally/currently wired to the house Battery in the slide out tray?

You might be close enough to my 2016... In my case - nuttin' was ready for Lithium. And the one-battery-tray wouldn't hold two LiFePO4s. Not even the new 100Ah mini's. Not without a lot of mods beyond my skill level.

I put 200 watts up on the roof. And since I was chicken to drill holes, I just routed the wires back to the ladder. Then used a 1.5" PVC pipe as conduit. The wires run down and then under and up into the back storage area where my MPPT controller is. I decided to just put my two Li batteries in there too.

 

[Jeff_923]

That sounds good. Doing similar on my 2018 RedHawks 26xd.
Trying to get drawings from Jayco is difficult..at least the ones that I need.. Trying to figure out the mess under the bed storage. Am replacing batteries and inverter with Victron lithium, controllers etc..the roof gland will be probably useless. Adding 1000w of panels ( 5 200w) and two either 300 or 330 amp bats. Planning on doing a lot of boondocking.

 

[Jeff_923]

You might be close enough to my 2016... In my case - nuttin' was ready for Lithium. And the one-battery-tray wouldn't hold two LiFePO4s. Not even the new 100Ah mini's. Not without a lot of mods beyond my skill level.

I put 200 watts up on the roof. And since I was chicken to drill holes, I just routed the wires back to the ladder. Then used a 1.5" PVC pipe as conduit. The wires run down and then under and up into the back storage area where my MPPT controller is. I decided to just put my two Li batteries in there too.

How did you figure out what was wired where? I’m having a time trying to place my charger/converter and controllers. Seems that none of the wire harnesses are marked in any way. I’m not quite sure what stays and what will go.

 

[pconroy]

How did you figure out what was wired where? I’m having a time trying to place my charger/converter and controllers. Seems that none of the wire harnesses are marked in any way. I’m not quite sure what stays and what will go.

Basically, I avoided the whole mess. Before I put the LiFePO4s in the back storage area, I ran 10G wire from the controller directly to the battery in the existing storage compartment.

The two panels are up top. They go into a waterproof "combiner box" (the idea I took from 'RV with Tito'). From the box, two 12G wires run down the back of my RV (in the PVC conduit) from the roof to the bumper. At the bumper, they run under and up thru a new hole into the back storage compartment. My SCC (controller) is back there. The panels are now connected to the controller.

The two 10G wires run from the controller, back out the new hole, under the coach and directly to the battery compartment. And attach to the battery.

Wires are protected with plastic wire wrap and zip tied out of harm's way.

This worked for a couple of years. Then I dumped the single SLA battery and went to two 100Ah LiFePO4s. I moved those back into the storage compartment. That simplified the wiring from the SCC to the battery but complicated my wiring to get the whole battery powered 12V side working again. But I don't think that's what you're asking about -- yet.

IMO - put the SCC wherever you want. Run the right sized wires from panels to "PV Input" on the SCC. Run the right sized wires from "Battery Out" on SCC to the battery.

 

[tptools]

That sounds good. Doing similar on my 2018 RedHawks 26xd.
Trying to get drawings from Jayco is difficult..at least the ones that I need.. Trying to figure out the mess under the bed storage. Am replacing batteries and inverter with Victron lithium, controllers etc..the roof gland will be probably useless. Adding 1000w of panels ( 5 200w) and two either 300 or 330 amp bats. Planning on doing a lot of boondocking.

"Difficult" is correct. Then when you get them, they are likely not for your exact model or year.

 

[tptools]

Going to add solar and lithium. Looking for any pictures or wiring diagrams for what is originally/currently wired to the house Battery in the slide out tray?

UPDATE: I am almost complete in my setup and install, except for 2 issues on unanswered battery cables.
Does one of the pos. cables come from the generator, directly to the battery to charge it ? Or does it come from the generator to the charge controller, and Then to the batter to charge the battery?

My other outstanding question is; I located the Alternator's charge Positive cable, and found that the voltage coming through is ZERO VDC unless the engine is started/running and it is NOT the same cable that charges battery via the generator. My question is why would I need a DC/DC charger that has an ACC line wired to an ACC vehicle terminal? Most 12V DC/DC chargers have this wire on them except for the Victron's where it is highly recommended you just turn them off when not driving vehicle. I do not get why if nothing is registering unless the vehicle is running?

 

[dvspl]

UPDATE: I am almost complete in my setup and install, except for 2 issues on unanswered battery cables.
Does one of the pos. cables come from the generator, directly to the battery to charge it ? Or does it come from the generator to the charge controller, and Then to the batter to charge the battery?

My other outstanding question is; I located the Alternator's charge Positive cable, and found that the voltage coming through is ZERO VDC unless the engine is started/running and it is NOT the same cable that charges battery via the generator. My question is why would I need a DC/DC charger that has an ACC line wired to an ACC vehicle terminal? Most 12V DC/DC chargers have this wire on them except for the Victron's where it is highly recommended you just turn them off when not driving vehicle. I do not get why if nothing is registering unless the vehicle is running?

The generator sends it's 120 VAC output to the ATS which then goes through your converter to charge the battery. So there is no direct charge connection from the generator to the battery. There is a direct connection from the positive battery to the generator starter, however.

The alternator charge cable goes through the battery boost solenoid which is only energized when the engine is running or if the battery boost switch by the driver is held closed. If you put a DC/DC charger you don't necessary need to use another source (such as ACC) to tell the DC/DC charger when power is being supplied. Keep in mind that if you put a DC/DC charger between the boost solenoid and the battery that you will lose the ability to use the house battery to boost the chassis battery for starting. There will be no direct connection between the house battery and that solenoid.

 

[tptools]

The generator sends it's 120 VAC output to the ATS which then goes through your converter to charge the battery. So there is no direct charge connection from the generator to the battery. There is a direct connection from the positive battery to the generator starter, however.

The alternator charge cable goes through the battery boost solenoid which is only energized when the engine is running or if the battery boost switch by the driver is held closed. If you put a DC/DC charger you don't necessary need to use another source (such as ACC) to tell the DC/DC charger when power is being supplied. Keep in mind that if you put a DC/DC charger between the boost solenoid and the battery that you will lose the ability to use the house battery to boost the chassis battery for starting. There will be no direct connection between the house battery and that solenoid.

Thanks so much, I appreciate it. Excellent info

 

[tptools]

The generator sends it's 120 VAC output to the ATS which then goes through your converter to charge the battery. So there is no direct charge connection from the generator to the battery. There is a direct connection from the positive battery to the generator starter, however.

The alternator charge cable goes through the battery boost solenoid which is only energized when the engine is running or if the battery boost switch by the driver is held closed. If you put a DC/DC charger you don't necessary need to use another source (such as ACC) to tell the DC/DC charger when power is being supplied. Keep in mind that if you put a DC/DC charger between the boost solenoid and the battery that you will lose the ability to use the house battery to boost the chassis battery for starting. There will be no direct connection between the house battery and that solenoid.

Should I put a fuse inline somewhere between the boost solenoid and the dc2dc controller on that input cable?

 

[dvspl]

Should I put a fuse inline somewhere between the boost solenoid and the dc2dc controller on that input cable?

Yes, you should put a fuse or CB sized to protect the wire size.