2018 Jay Flight 24RBS Mods

[blakei]

So, I have a 28BHS not a 24RBS, but couldn't find a mod thread for that TT, and thought you all might appreciate two mods that I did over the summer...


First, we really struggled with the overly bright light in from the LED dinette light. So I installed this beautiful quartz shade:





Where did I find it, you ask? The LED light is cool enough that I taped a piece of brown paper grocery bag around it! Not as awesome in the daytime but we don't mind it.





PS: if anyone can let me know how to rotate images (tried a few things and searches) I would really appreciate it!
PPS: if there is a better "trailer mods" thread to share this please let me know!

 

[blakei]

In my quest to manage tongue weight, the second mod I did was to rig up a bracket to secure a single propane tank in place of two tanks. I saw this on some other forum and it ended up working REALLY well.











PS: if anyone can let me know how to rotate images (tried a few things and searches) I would really appreciate it!
PPS: if there is a better "trailer mods" thread to share this please let me know!

 

[Rustic Eagle]

snip........ PPS: if there is a better "trailer mods" thread to share this please let me know!

blakei,

I would start your personal trailer mods thread in the "Jayco Mods" forum....., it would make it much easier for tracking/viewing/referencing your mods, and won't get buried in other threads.

snip.......PS: if anyone can let me know how to rotate images (tried a few things and searches) I would really appreciate it!

I don't know why some of your original images were inserted 'rotated', but I was able to 'copy/rotate/re-post' them from my photo ap:

Bob

 

[blakei]

Thanks, Bob. I took a look and found an older 28BHS mods thread which I'll add to, and edit these posts to just point to that one to clean up.


Which photo app did you use? I am posting on the web and attaching the images, but that seems to always orient to the long side, i.e. rotated for a tall photo. I have Tapatalk so I can try editing there too... Thanks for all your great advice!

 

[Rustic Eagle]

snip........Which photo app did you use? ....snip

For inserting images (photos) from my personal photo library to a JOF thread-post I use the following service:

https://postimages.org

As far as editing photos I use the Apple "Photos" app that came with my MacBook Pro, the use the previously mentioned image posting service.

Hope this helps......

Bob

 

[Rustic Eagle]

Like my prior TT's, at some point I upgraded my suspensions with the Dexter HD Upgrade Kit due to the fact that I keep my TT's 8-plus years and put a lot of miles on them. Also, most OEM suspensions don't come with the ability to lube the leaf spring and equalizer connection points.

For my 24RBS I purchased the Dexter HD Suspension Kit #K71-359-00 for my Lippert (LCI) 3,500lb rated axles. Yes, some of the Dexter Axle products are compatible with Lippert axles.

The Dexter HD Kit consists of the hardware shown in the following photo:

Purchased from: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Suspension/Dexter-Axle/K71-359-00.html

It's difficult to see, but the two new equalizers each have a zert fitting mounted at the the top above the bolted connection bushing hole.

I have installed these HD upgrade kits before, but this time I elected to have "Big Tex Trailer World" of Whitmore Lake, Michigan, to install the kit. This particular 'Big Tex' facility services RV's when it comes to tasks associated with frames, hitch coupler replacement, axles, suspension repair/replacement, brake systems & wiring, wheel bearings, and exterior lighting. Big Tex doesn't sell RV's.

I would highly recommend this particular 'Big Tex' location (along US 23) for specific RV service needs like previously identified. I called on a Thursday to schedule my service appointment, dropped my TT off the following Wednesday morning, and picked-up my finished TT the next day. Great staff and experienced service tech's.

Big Tex recommended location: https://www.bigtextrailerworld.com/whitmore?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=lpm&utm_campaign=local_presence_management

My TT is four years old (delivered 10/2017) and at least 25,000 traveled miles. Upon removal of the OEM plastic bushings and steel shackles there were visible signs of wear taking place.

Plastic bushing removed (worst case) from top bolted connection bushing hole of OEM equalizer:

Typical OEM shackle with visible signs of hole-elongation in process:

Before.....

After.....

Before.....

After....

After.....

Happy camper

Bob

 

[lroyson]

This is a good upgrade. Has anyone done this themselves at home? Is it a pretty straight forward install or is there anything risky about DIY?

 

[Rustic Eagle]

Iroyson,

Yes, it can be a DYI if you have the right tools and a level hard surface to work from. Do "not" use the stabilizer jacks to support the TT weight.

There are a few JOF threads where members detail their method of installing a suspension upgrade kit.

A JOF reference, Post #4:

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f30/suspension-morryde-61615-2.html

RV.NET detailed reference w/pics:

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21609645.cfm

Bob

 

[lroyson]

Thanks Bob.

 

[Jay2504-JAY]

Bob,you are lucky that the old suspension was in that good of shape. My 2020 model was almost as bad with around 7,000 miles on it at the time. A question, why didn’t you go with a cushioned equalizer? Jay

 

[Rustic Eagle]

Bob,you are lucky that the old suspension was in that good of shape.........snip...... A question, why didn’t you go with a cushioned equalizer? Jay

Jay,

I believe the 'majority' of my plastic bushings and overall suspension showed minimal wear after 4 years/25K plus miles was that a couple times a year I gave the bushing area a good shot of WD40 Silicone spray lubricant.

I elected to upgrade to a steel equalizer (w/zert fitting) in lieu of a cushioned equalizer because the rubber material becomes the weakest link (perishable, sooner rather than later).

Bob

 

[Jay2504-JAY]

There must be a benefit to spraying those bushings. I went with a cushioned equalizer for a better ride for the camper. I’ve seen a couple of videos of the suspension in action, the cushioned equalizer seemed to help. I guess we will see how long it lasts. Jay

 

[Rustic Eagle]

snip......I’ve seen a couple of videos of the suspension in action, the cushioned equalizer seemed to help.....snip

I agree......, any form of dampening upgrade on the suspension has its advantages.

Another product I looked at was the Roadmaster Comfort Ride Shock Absorbers (and/or springs), but can be a little pricey. If I was full-timing this would be on my short-list.

Bob

 

[Rustic Eagle]

With frequent high/cold winds while wintering in Texas, I found cold air was easily getting past the cheap, stiff rubber seals behind the outside pass-thru storage doors and the outside kitchen door.

With the doors closed, I inserted/compressed a 1/4" ID latex hose in the gap between the access door/door frame and found it very effective.

The latex hose doesn't freeze, is fast/easy to insert/compress (finger & thumb) and remove when needed......, I don't leave installed while in-tow.

A few years ago I converted my outdoor kitchen into a storage area (liquids, spare parts, 'stuff', etc.), and also installed an air vent in the bathroom wall that backed-up to this same storage area (keeps area from freezing). The latex hose eliminated cold air moving through the storage area and vent.

Outside kitchen (storage) door:

Pass-thru door(s):

Latex Hose used:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EZ-FLO-1-4-in-Inner-Diameter-x-10-ft-Latex-Hose/1000180623

Bob

 

[Dancin-JAY]

Hi Doug. We are also looking at adding a recliner. Also can I get the 2017 24rbs schematics sent to my email dancin58@hotmail.com

 

[RichCarter]

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7/2017-24rbs-schematics-framing-elect-plumbing-45684.html

 

[Dancin-JAY]

We added a shelf in that cupboard to increase storage for food

 

[Grumpaw374]

Bob, been reading all your mod posts from the first, looking for additions to our new Jay Feather 24RL.
So far I've bought the Foam Anti Fatigue Mat from Amazon and have a HyperVent mattress pad on order. Also, will be up-grading the cheapie fan vents to the Vortex ll.
Since our rig is new, I plan on using it this season with the suspension it came with, but probably when the season ends around Nov, I plan on up-grading to the same type set up you used.
Additionally, I'm looking at the Lippert shock kits, around $150 per axle on Amazon. Think I would rather go that route instead of the cushioned equalizers.
Going to run my rig for a season to determine which way I want to go.
Since this is probably going to be our last rv, and a keeper , I want to get right into setting it up for the long term.
Thanks for your postings and ideas.

 

[Rustic Eagle]

snip.......Since this is probably going to be our last rv, and a keeper , I want to get right into setting it up for the long term.......snip

I agree, a little preventive maintenance and 'upgrading' early on will pay dividends in the long run.

Bob

 

[Rustic Eagle]

One of my OEM rear scissor stabilizer jacks isn't able to hold it's extended position when camping..., especially under high winds hitting the TT broadside.

I use the "Scissor Jack Nut Lock" (link below) on all my stabilizers which confirms the worm gear shaft isn't backing off...., suggesting another part of the mechanism is the root cause. Decided to purchase a 'pair' of new rear stabilizers.

The existing OEM stabilizers were rated at 5,000lbs..., I went with a pair of Eaz-Lift Stabilizing Scissor Jacks rated at 7,500lb (link below), which I feel will provide a little more 'solid' stability under TT interior usage and high wind conditions.

Scissor Jack Nut Locks: https://www.amazon.com/Sizzer-Jack-Lock-Scissor-Stabilizer/dp/B083C2YZNG

Eaz-Lift 7,500lb Stabilizers: https://www.amazon.com/Eaz-Lift-Stabilizing-Scissor-Trailers-48830/dp/B00IKKS4W8?th=1

Installation Notes:

* Eaz-Lift package included large course-threaded self tapping screws (I didn't use).

* The Eaz-Lift stabilizer and my OEM stabilizer mounting plate clearance holes differ in location. I was able to utilize 2 of the existing TT I-beam self tapped screw locations...., but had to drill 2 new clearance hole locations thru the I-beam for the 2 remaining mounting plate clearance holes for 5/16-18 bolts/nuts that I supplied.

* My original "Scissor Jack Nut Locks" worked great with my OEM stabilizers, but the Eaz-Lift wouldn't accept the 'Nut Locks' once the stabilizer jack was extended about 50% to 60%. I use wood block(s) under my stabilizers and avoid over-extending, so I should be ok.

New stabilizer with "Nut Lock" in place.......

Utilizing 2 existing self tapped locations on TT I-beam. I used the original self taping screws (w/larger flat washers)....., but considering up-grading with bolts/nuts.

Utilized bolts/nuts in 2 newly drilled I-beam locations.....

I will take a closer look at the inoperable OEM stabilizer and see if I can confirm the root cause.

Bob