Adding a Valve to the Overflow drian of an A-Frame

[BC Boondocker]

On our first trip with Our A-Frame / Hardwall we noticed about a 75% loss of water through our Overflow drain.

When I posed the question, a number of people noted this came up a lot. It seems it was quite a simple fix to add the valve.

It took 10$ at Wall Mart.
a 1/2" hose connector added onto the Drain, and a Screw on Valve attached to that.

Two bonuses to adding this Valve
1) It will reduce the sloshing of water inside the tank.
2) It seemed the drain was pointed directly at my passenger side leaf spring and tire. This should help prevent undue rust over time.

 

[norty1]

Don't forget to open it when filling.

 

[BC Boondocker]

Don't forget to open it when filling.

LOL good advice; I plan on closing it to drive. That way it will be part of my departure and arrival check lists.

 

[dewey02]

LOL good advice; I plan on closing it to drive. That way it will be part of my departure and arrival check lists.

You should also open it once you start drawing water out of your tanks. Sometimes (when there is no other vent) the overfill hose also serves as a vent to allow air in as the water is pumped out.

 

[mike837go]

You should also open it once you start drawing water out of your tanks. Sometimes (when there is no other vent) the overfill hose also serves as a vent to allow air in as the water is pumped out.

That's the part I don't get.

There IS a screen at 7 o'clock on the freshwater fill port. I found the 1" and 1/4" hose pair that run from the fill port to the tank. They run behind the water pump. Shouldn't that be enough of an air exchange pathway for filling, using and draining? Why do we need two 1/2" hoses for venting?

Personally, I connected the two 1/2" hoses to a T fitting. I install a plug during transit.

 

[Bassdogs]

I typically travel with the fresh tank only about 1/3 full or less for on the road use. If we are going to a CG w/o hookups I have a water thief to connect fill hose to a water spikot upon arrival and before set up.

A shutoff on the drain hose is a good idea but as others have noted, you need to remember to open it when you get to your site and when ever you are filling to avoid pressurizing your tank. The vent next to the fill cap doesn't seem to vent enough if you over fill. The overflow allows this excess to drain. Mine seems to drain for a ??able amount of time and I suspect there is some syphoning going on. Since I have access to water most of the time I haven't worried about a shut off.

 

[BC Boondocker]

Where I Camp, water can be a problem.

I'm almost never somewhere with a water connection. And any water we take from a lake can contaminate my water tank. There are several places that have a water warning to boil to kill bacteria ect. And I am very careful to just assume its a contaminated water source. (usually we boil it and then use it for washing dishes)

The concept of a water thief interests me, but I doubt Ill have opportunity to use it. Not to say I don't plan on getting one just in case.

My only alternative to having a full water tank, is carrying all that water in water cubes inside my trailer.

Thankfully I can avoid most problems with metal fatigue and closed water valves. As my background is that of an emergency service worker, it was a requirement to Pre Trip our vehicles EVERY shift. And there are habitual check lists used once you get to where your headed...

(LOL the RV place said that I was the first, 'first time buyer' they had ever seen actually pre trip the trailer before driving it off the lot.)

So Making sure that Valve is closed is part of my hitch connecting process for Hauling.

And making sure the valve is open, is part of my Site set up process, with leveling, lighting pilot lights ect. (upon your recommendation)

And finally Making sure the valve is open is part of my filling the tank process.

So here is hoping I never get tripped up and my check lists keep things under control.

 

[Jagiven]

That's the part I don't get.

There IS a screen at 7 o'clock on the freshwater fill port. I found the 1" and 1/4" hose pair that run from the fill port to the tank. They run behind the water pump. Shouldn't that be enough of an air exchange pathway for filling, using and draining? Why do we need two 1/2" hoses for venting?

Personally, I connected the two 1/2" hoses to a T fitting. I install a plug during transit.

Mike on my htt, that little screen does not have a hose connected to it. The back side is plugged with a dap of caulk. So for me it, it does not breath. If it did it would cure the siphoning issue. I just found if I pull the hose up high, it stopped the siphoning from starting. Like the OP, I do not have an enclosed underbelly. So my hose only sticks through the floor, and is difficult to view without being under the tt.

 

[BC Boondocker]

Yes mine is rather annoying in that It loops through my floor taking up valuable storage space... for no apparent reason.

I get needing the height, but Like another poster commented on... It could have caused syphoning and just sucked the water out... (I see what you mean)

But why not run it back through the same hole or at a better angle so as not to screw up my cargo load.... Sigh...

I'm somewhat anal about things being in good order and safe, so I'll probably be cleaning up that haphazardly screwed in wallboard too.

 

[RVhiker]

That's the part I don't get.

There IS a screen at 7 o'clock on the freshwater fill port. I found the 1" and 1/4" hose pair that run from the fill port to the tank. They run behind the water pump. Shouldn't that be enough of an air exchange pathway for filling, using and draining? Why do we need two 1/2" hoses for venting?

Personally, I connected the two 1/2" hoses to a T fitting. I install a plug during transit.

Mike, do you have two tanks? For example, my fifth wheel has two 40 gallon fresh water tanks. I can tell you that if I forget to open my two valves on the end of the overflow hoses, that the rear tank empties normally BUT the front tank will not empty very well, if at all. I have a gauge on the front tank, and if I don't open the overflow valves the front tank reads full for a long time. On opening the overflow valves, there are gurgling sounds and the front tank suddenly reads much lower. Bottom line is that I think that screen just vents the rear tank.

Here is a link to a thread, courtesy of Camper bob, with some pictures of a two tank system: Camper bob's thread.

 

[dewey02]

That's the part I don't get.

There IS a screen at 7 o'clock on the freshwater fill port. I found the 1" and 1/4" hose pair that run from the fill port to the tank. They run behind the water pump. Shouldn't that be enough of an air exchange pathway for filling, using and draining? Why do we need two 1/2" hoses for venting?

Personally, I connected the two 1/2" hoses to a T fitting. I install a plug during transit.

X2 on what RVhiker has said.
I have dual tanks and the vent only vents one tank. And because that tank has water in it and the water covers up the equalizer hoses between the two tanks (the pump only draws from one tank), then there is no way that air can get to the second tank. So the overflow hoses DO function as vents, and in the case of a 2nd tank, they function as the ONLY vent for that tank.

 

[BC Boondocker]

I Stopped in at our Local shop that covers the Jayco Warrantee work. and had a discussion with their service tech.

When I discussed the syphoning issue they sugested I put a Valve on it and close it when traveling. When I asked about over pressure when filling the tank, they comented that it probably wouldn't be an issue as there is other venting during the process. They did add, make sure its open to be safe.

When I asked about negative pressure while using my water system. and they added, make sure the valve is open to be safe. (they again added its not likely to be an issue if it were closed)

So... pretty much everyone who gave advice in here was right LOL