Adjustments needed for installation of a Reese Dual Cam Weight Distribution System

[Arizona Cajun]

I have a 2012 Ford F-250 FX4 with the tow package and the Jayco 2011 330rlts trailer. As many of you know, the tongue weight on the 330rlts is over 1400 pounds. I am installing a Reese Straight Line Dual Cam Weight Distribution System rated for 1700 pound tongue weight and 17,000 pounds trailer weight. My receiver on the F-250 is rated for 1,750 pound tongue weight and 17,500 weight distributed trailer. After I installed the Reese straight line weight distribution system, my front wheel well measurement settled 1/2 inch and my rear wheel well measurement settled 2 inches and the trailer was level. After I installed the dual cam sway control, my front wheel well measurement stay the same as unload and my rear settled 3 inches.

Any suggestions on how to adjust the dual cam sway control to give me the same weight distribution as without it?

Appreciate any suggestions. Not sure what else I can do to reduce the back end sinking.

 

[Rustic Eagle]

Arizona Cajun,

Welcome to the Jayco forums

I assume that when you say "settled 1/2", you mean that with the WDH spring bars engaged the front wheel well is 1/2" below it's unhitched height.

Just a couple of questions:

1) Which of the following Dual Cam models did you install ? (makes a difference when mounting/adjusting)

Original Dual Cam:

1st Version "HP" Dual Cam:

2nd Version "HP" Dual Cam:

2) Do you recall how much your front fender raised and the rear fender settled when you hitched the TT to your TV (prior to engaging the WDH)?

3) Is it possible your TV was loaded differently when you installed the Dual Cam?

4) Chance you could post a side view photo of your WDH hitched to your TV/TT?

Thanks in advance.

Some additional thoughts......,

For reference, check your Ford F-250 owners manual in the Towing section on the subject of using a WDH. I believe that Ford states for 2011 and newer trucks the WDH should be adjusted to eliminate about 50% of the front end RISE (spring bars not engaged)....., so if the front rises 1.5" initially (spring bars not engaged), the RISE should be reduced to around 3/4" (spring bars engaged). If the front of the TV is returned to it's original height that would be fine as well.

I mention this because you are stating that you are 1/2" below your unhitched front fender height, so distributing more weight to the front of the TV isn't advised in an attempt to raise the rear of the TV a little.

It may come down to the fact that all of our TV suspensions can settle a little different at times, even when all weight and WDH conditions are the same. Experiencing a 1" to 2" rear fender drop is normal with most WDH spring bars engaged, but then again the 330RLTS has the ability to produce some "uncommon" heavy loaded tongue weights. Also, with the common 1/2" front fender drop it implies that you are distributing the same amount of weight (only a CAT scale can confirm) to the front of your TV (with and/without the Dual Cam), tends to support my thought that it might just be the way your rear TV suspension is settling.

Bob

 

[Arizona Cajun]

Rustic Eagle,

Thanks for the response. You are correct, the "settled 1/2 inch" reference was the front wheel well was a 1/2 inch below the unhitched height. Just a point of reference, this was the first time I got the front end to either stay the same or go down in height. All of the other times with the previous hitch, the front end was higher.

1. I installed the 2nd Version "HP" Dual Cam Sway Control System. I followed the instructions on taking a test drive with several "S" moves to ensure the Cam's could settle and then tightened them afterwards.

2. The front end would rise about 3/4 to 1 inch and the back would sink about 3 inches without the WDH.

3. Great question, however I kept the TV the same on both instances of the install.

4. I will post a picture tomorrow to show the sag on the back end of the TV.

Additional comments:

Excellent point on checking the reference document for the Ford F-250. With the dual cam sway control engaged as part of the WDH, I am able to keep the front end the same as the unhitched height, so that sounds like it is good.

The back end dropping from 2 inches to 3 inches does concern me a bit, so maybe it is the way the rear end suspension is settling.

I "hear ya" on the rather "uncommon tongue weights" for the 330rlts, I am beginning to think that I need a dually or a third axle on that trailer. I did hear that Jayco will not be making the this trailer next year, which could be because it is too difficult to tow. The 36" does not bother me, nor the 11,250 GVWR, but the tongue weight seems to be the whole problem.

Maybe I will need to reinforce my rear suspension, although, hard to believe that is required. Just still not feeling good when I tow the trailer.

 

[Rustic Eagle]

Arizona Cajun,

Appreciate the follow up.

snip........ Just a point of reference, this was the first time I got the front end to either stay the same or go down in height. All of the other times with the previous hitch, the front end was higher......snip

It's apparent that you have an understanding of the WDH adjustment process and the need to distribute weight properly, that's important. Once the Reese HP Dual Cam WDH is dialed in it will perform well, so your efforts are not in vain.

As mentioned, with your 2012 Ford you don't want to drop your front suspension below it's unhitched height.., because the 1/2" you mentioned puts you a tad below.

snip......I installed the 2nd Version "HP" Dual Cam Sway Control System....snip

I have the 1st version, but the 2nd version design does aid in addressing some clearance issues that some TV/TT combinations have. With the 2nd version it's very important to mount the u-bolt correctly to the hanger bracket, and attach the hanger bracket correctly to the cam arm yoke as shown in the following diagram:

snip......The front end would rise about 3/4 to 1 inch and the back would sink about 3 inches without the WDH....snip

Hmmmm, it's interesting that the WDH is able to drop the front suspension from 3/4" to 1" above unhitched height to 1/2" below.., but the rear suspension remains at 3". In most cases there would be some degree of "rise" in the rear suspension when there is a degree of "drop" in the front suspension via the WDH engagement. But one thing I have learned over the years is, no two TV/TT combinations are alike.

What would be interesting is to add "one" chain link under tension (ie; go from 5 links to 6 links) at the snap-up bracket and then revisit your front/rear suspension drop/rise heights..... just thinking out loud here.

snip......I will post a picture tomorrow to show the sag on the back end of the TV.......snip

More importantly, a close-up side view photo of your WDH/HP Dual Cam would be helpful.

snip......The back end dropping from 2 inches to 3 inches does concern me a bit, so maybe it is the way the rear end suspension is settling......snip

IMO I think that you are really close on having the HP Dual Cam dialed in, but if you would feel more comfortable reducing the 3" rear suspension drop there are products that can stiffen the rear suspension a little. Maybe some other forum members will chime in that have a similar Ford F-250/TT combination (heavy tongue weight) and will relay what they are experiencing with rear suspension drop.

Since you are working with a heavy TT I would highly recommend going to a CAT scale and confirming your loaded TV/TT weights. The one weight I'm interested in is the loaded weight being placed on your TV's rear axle and how it compares to your TV's rear GAWR specification.

This JOF CAT Scale sticky may be helpful: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthread.php?t=3871

Look forward to seeing your photos.

Bob

 

[Arizona Cajun]

Bob,

Really appreciate your help. Please see my photos attached. After the last adjustments made, my front end wheel well measurement is staying the same loaded and hitched as it is unloaded, so that is good news. However, my rear wheel well measurement is still dropping 2 1/2 inches. I guess that maybe ok, but I would prefer it to be less.

With the front end staying the same, I assume I have the right amount of chain links hooked up. The way I understand it, more or less chain links would alter the weight distribution to the front not the back.

Thanks again.

Wayne

 

[Bob Landry]

With the front end staying the same, I assume I have the right amount of chain links hooked up. The way I understand it, more or less chain links would alter the weight distribution to the front not the back.


Wayne

You are correct. You are transfering the right amount of weight to the front axle. Changing links either way will change that. The current trend of thought is to get the front end correct and let the rear tend to itself. it will be virtually impossible to get equal front and rear squat using the WD bars. if the rear squat is really objectionable, there is no problem with using air bags or helper springs to raise it, just be aware that will change the WD and you'll have to readjust with the bags in use.

BTW, the dual cam should not change the WD. If it does, there might be a problem.

 

[Rustic Eagle]

Wayne,

After reviewing your photos (thanks again for posting them), your front suspension now returned to unhitched height, and a 2 1/2" rear suspension drop......, your definitely good to go in my book.... great job! IMO the 2 1/2" drop (even 3") with the rear suspension isn't a surprise at all with the weights your are dealing with.

Your correct, adding/deleting the chain links under tension will have a direct impact on weight distribution, as would changing the ball mount tilt.

Your pics show 7 links under tension with your 2nd version "HP/DC", my 1st version "HP/DC" is set up with the same 7 links under tension. Your component clearances are excellent and shouldn't present any problems over uneven terrain.

I have had my HP Dual Cam with my TV/TT combination for about 6 years now...., below is a pic of my set up that I took a number of years ago. Since the pic was taken I installed a newer version ball mount, went from 1,200lb to 1,500lb rated spring bars, and have thru-bolted the Dual Cam Frame Plate bolts (http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthread.php?t=6606&highlight=frame+plate&page=4).

Some additional food for thought stuff:

* Keep the ball, and ball mount sockets greased where the spring bar knuckles are inserted.
* With the heavy tongue weight a little "dab" of Vaseline (no grease) over the cam surface will quiet things down a little, and reduce wear.
* Attached the same spring bar to the same side of the WDH. This will reduce wear because the spring bar will eventually mate to the corresponding metal components. I have my drivers side spring bar labeled with a zip-tie.
* Check the torque (50 ft/lbs) of the HP Dual Cam frame plate self tappers a couple of times during the season.
* If you still are using the TV receiver/draw bar clip-pin that has the bent end, the inside radius end of the clip-pin will eventually elongate the the hole in the TV receiver pin box....., replace it with a straight locking pin ASAP.

When you get a chance, spend 30 minutes at a CAT scale and confirm your weights...., it will give you some added comfort knowing that all your loaded weights are within there respective limits.

Have a great summer

Bob

 

[mach8274-JAY]

I have the same truck...a year older. I am also using the dual cam set-up. I installed air bags about a month ago and they made all the difference in the world. In 2011, Ford changed the rear suspension on the F250 to get a better unloaded ride. The springs are 3 inches longer and they reduced the amount of leafs in the spring pack. If you have the camper package, this does not apply as the camper package adds factory over loads and an extra leaf in the main pack. Long story short, they sag under heavy weights. Before the air bags, I was 1/2" sag in front and 2" sag in the rear. Now I am 1/4" in front and 3/4" in the rear with 32 psi in the bags. And it's a lot more stable on the road.

You are about 400 lbs heavier on the tongue than I am. I agree with the others that you are pretty much done with what you can do with the hitch. Judging by my experience, air bags are the way to go. You won't be disappointed.

Good luck!
Dave