An ignorance question

I have not heard of a Jayco Class C where the engine didn't charge the house battery when everything was working correctly. There may be some, but I haven't heard of any. Regardless, it's easy to check. Read the voltage at the house battery with the engine off, then start the engine and take the same reading. It should go up if the alternator is charging the house battery.
Reread my comment. We are saying the same thing. Aux button closes solenoid and house jumps chassis. Start engine, solenoid closes and alternator charges house. But plug into shore and solenoid stays open and converter does not charge chassis.
 
Smokey, It took me a while to figure out that you were talking about the water heater. Am I correct in that you had a bad negative (ground) connection at the chassis causing your converter not working part, and that the blowing fuses to the refrigerator issue was the control power also went to the water heater and the two temp sensors were loose and bouncing around causing the short and blowing the fuse?
If so, GREAT! Happy you are fixed now!
 
E.C.O. is short for Emergency Cut Off. TSAT is the temperature sensor. The marking P-T (maybe with an arrow) is only pointing up to the direction of the Pressure/Temperature valve, sort of to tell you (poorly) what it is. That's the one with a lever on it that's threaded into the tank.
 
Smokey, It took me a while to figure out that you were talking about the water heater. Am I correct in that you had a bad negative (ground) connection at the chassis causing your converter not working part, and that the blowing fuses to the refrigerator issue was the control power also went to the water heater and the two temp sensors were loose and bouncing around causing the short and blowing the fuse?
If so, GREAT! Happy you are fixed now!
You are right on both counts. I hope. Time will tell.
 

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