BigJohnD's Mods to 28BHBE

[BigJohnD]

Got a long list, but these are just a few done recently.

1) Generator and rack. I had this rack shown in first picture laying around for the last 5-6 years, never been used. I can't even remember why I had it. Either way, chopped, cut, rebuilt. Generator's mounted on vibration dampeners, hour meter added, and the whole contraption can be rolled around the shop once removed from receiver. Receiver is not 100% original any more. The whole set up is still well under 200 pounds. Yes, it's louder than a Honda Inverter Gen. I do own 2 Honda EU2000's with the parallel kit, 6 gal aux tank etc. But, I only use the Champion for running AC while getting there, maybe lunch at a rest stop, and worst case, overnighting at a rest stop. We don't boondock and don't care how much louder it is than the Hondas. It works for it's intended purpose, and I have very little $$ in this project.

 

[BigJohnD]

2) Water filter. Ok, I've gutted every stock filter that ever came with any RV we've had due to stupid design, or location. The Jay Flight didn't come with one, so that's good, didn't have to tear one out. We've never used or had a use for these tiny gas grills that come with the camper, so I had been eyeballing the square tubing and mount on the bumper trying to figure out what to do with it. So, here it is. Moved the bracket on the bumper to the left side, used a piece of aluminum that came out of an old tool box, and a short hose I had left over from a previous similar set up. So, again, little $$$ involved here either. Filter can be removed by loosening the wing nut and storing.

 

[BigJohnD]

3) Roof TLC. Everybody has their opinion on what works and doesn't work on a roof. Believe me, I have researched almost every one manufactured and talked with all of them. I haven't kept a rig long enough to justify doing a sprayed roof, so I've done other things. The last several rigs, I've just coated the seams and other areas. On the EPDM roofs, we use the ProGuard Liquid Roof. On this TPO roof, we used another product made by ProGuard that you can't buy in any RV store. Similar to the Liquid Roof though. The stuff fills every void, and makes a nice slick surface, and cleans easier than the roof itself. No more lap sealant deteriorating, turning black etc. We used this method while full timing, and I can tell you it looked the same the day we sold it as it did the day it was put on. Of course coated the skylights as well. If you saw my previous mod with the insulation, panel and LED decoration in the ceiling, you'd know why it's coated.

 

[BigJohnD]

4) Step Mounted Shoe Rack. I borrowed this from another forum member. I thought it was pretty simple yet genius. I welded all of this one together and then bolted it under the steps. Works pretty good for it's intended purpose.

 

[BigJohnD]

That's it for now. Residential fridge is on order, so that'll be the next thing. Due to a tight budget, I'll be running it just on shore power or generator for now until more funds are available for the 6 volt batteries and inverter. Wanted to have it installed next time I get in from offshore, but knee surgery may put the brakes on it for now. Stay tuned.

 

[Need A Vacation]

John,

Nice filter holder! Great idea!!!

Am I understanding the generator set up is for while you are traveling down the road? Never considered that if so. Lol that way the rig is already cooled off once you are done setting up.

The roof sealant- once applied does the ProGuard need to be maintained in the same manner as the standard sealant?

Great job!

 

[Need A Vacation]

The shoe rack is awesome!!!! TY for posting and TY to who ever had the original idea!!!

Could you take a couple more pics? You have three steps, correct? How is it putting shoes in and taking them out?

Guess I have another mod added to the list!!!

 

[BigJohnD]

Generator is for just as you mentioned. Camper is in the low 70's when we get there, or when we stop for a lunch break. Worked well on last trip considering temps were north of 100°. On the roof sealant, it doesn't require hardly any maintenance. There is a dealer in Louisiana that does this to all of the units as they come in. That's where I first learned about it and starting researching the idea.


Oh, if anybody wants a brand new never been used gas grill (the one that would have gone on that rack), send me a PM. Pay the shipping and it's yours. Keep in mind I have a busy schedule and do work a 21 / 21 day rotation, so it probably wouldn't get shipped immediately.

 

[BigJohnD]

2 steps on our rig. I'll take a couple of more close up pics in the morning. It's not hard to get shoes in and out, but I guess what I like is it can keep them out of the way, or it's a place to dry the wet shoes etc.

 

[Need A Vacation]

TY!!! It is a crazy awesome idea! Lol

Our last two trailers we carried a small three wire shelve (Target special- maybe $15) for shoes and placed it just outside the door. But it was ditched when we got our new tt. Never even considered this. Have to see how if it will work with a three step set up. Don't see why not though!

TY again!!!

 

[BigJohnD]

Probably would with no issues. Only thing is making sure the steps don't hit it when folded in. I had to space mine down a little with a few small washers. The rack itself is just 3/4 angle (Or maybe it was 1/2", can't remember) and expanded metal from lowes.

 

[BigJohnD]

As requested, here's a few more pictures of the shoe rack. I do have 3 steps. Not sure why I was thinking 2. Guess I don't pay much mind to how much stepping I do. Oh, all credit goes to RickAE for the shoe rack idea. 3rd picture may be a little hard to figure out, but it kind of shows the clearance between the step and rack when folded up. That's the bottom step you see.

 

[Need A Vacation]

TY John and RickAE for an absolutely awesome idea!!!!

Never even considered that.

Time to build two!!! Lol

 

[jasoncw-JAY]

Nice job John. I'm also definitely going to copy RickAE's shoe rack.

 

[BigJohnD]

So here's the new fridge. Came in tuesday, I left for work wednesday, so 21 more days until I can start on it. The dimensions should be easy to work with. When the existing fridge was changed out, I took pictures and measurements of the box opening real good. The only thing I'll have to cut a little is maybe 1/16 to 1/8" off of one of the sides of the opening. Fridge enclosure opening is 23.5" wide x 60" tall. Fridge itself is 23.5" wide x 59.5" tall. Depth of opening is 24", fridge is 22.5" from back to gasket. I'll have it stick out a little to give me a little more working room.

So I go from 8cf to 10.1 cf, plus get the frost free feature. I'll be better insulating the cabinet and be making the locking mechanism for the doors while in transit. Of course I'll be making some trim as well to neaten up around the opening. I'm hoping to at least get the fridge in before possible knee surgery.

Here's the link for this specific fridge if anyone is ever interested:
Shop Haier 10.11-cu ft Top-Freezer Refrigerator (Black) at Lowes.com

Do the math. Between fridge cost, estimated inverter and battery cost, wiring etc, I'm still way less than the cost of a new Norcold.

 

[Need A Vacation]

Holy cripe that is huge!!! Lol

Take plenty of pics when you get to the mod.

When we had our Yellowstone I replaced the original fridge with a 4cuf dorm fridge. Used the child snap locks that some have used for the outdoor kitchen fridge to keep the doors closed.

 

[BigJohnD]

Yet, it's still lighter than the Norcold. I have it running in the shop now, and already love the thing. Guess this will be one of the first mods on future rigs. I will take plenty of pictures.

 

[BigJohnD]

Ok, so here it is. Got home from work yesterday, and hit the floor running this morning. First few pictures is what the compartment looks like from the factory, second 2 are after removal of the batten and installing the foam board. I didn't snap any pictures, but I did neaten up and organize the wiring.


Sorry about the sideways pictures. Guess I didn't hold the phone right.

 

[BigJohnD]

And here's the rest of it. Made a sheet metal pan for the base which gives a little peace of mind, and just looks better. Had to cut about 1/4" off of the right side of the opening to get the new fridge in. Once in, what you can't see, there are "L" brackets secured to the top of the fridge and to the opening, then 3 screws across the back / base of the fridge. For now, it's just running on shore power or genset. Soon to come when money allows, the inverter and auto transfer switch.

I love this new fridge. Even though I've only had it in the camper today, I don't think I will ever own another Norcold or Dometic fridge. Total cost for today's mods, under $400.

 

[BigJohnD]

Maybe this picture will show up right. Tomorrow morning, I'll be making the trim to finish it out.