Camp Sites on slope

JA

Javin

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2017
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161
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Pickering
I'm a new 16XRB owner that ran into a problem with an uneven slope on the last site we were at. We like the sites near water that often slope down making it hard to get the trailer level. I tried my best to use the stabilizer jacks and blocks on one side to even out the trailer but ended up bending one jack when the tounge pole slipped off the wood it was on. Gave us quite a scare. Newbie mistake. Just wondering if stabilizer jacks and stabilizer blocks are all that is required to level our trailer on a bad slope or is there something else for those bad slopping sites with the good views?! Or do u leave those sites to the tent campers?
 
Your stabilizer jacks are not designed to carry the weight of an RV.. Yes Chocks on all wheels. At some point if the amount of blocks gets too high it's just not worth it.. Higher you stack blocks the more unstable they become, and less movement it takes for a jack to fail or move.. Good Luck...
 
Stabilizer jacks are just that....stabilizers. You need to level side to side by placing blocks under the tires. Front to back with the tongue jack using a wide, stable set of blocks to avoid too much lift from the jack.
 
We've had a couple close calls on slopes so we've gone the 'belt and suspenders' route:
Solid Rubber Wheel Chocks with Handle (8-3/4" Length, 4" Width, 6" Height) plus Camco brand 'X' chocks and Camco Leveling blocks.

In addition, using 4x4 lumber, I glued and screwed together a tower, roughly 14" square and 14" tall for the tongue jack. I had one too times where the stacked wood under that jack slipped or tipped.

Like others have said, trailer stabilizers are not for raising your trailer. They are to reduce the rocking from side to side.

Maybe, too, consider setting up in a better spot, a bit further from the water. ;)
 
Once level side to side, with blocks, then seure wheel chocks for the conditions.disconnect from the tv, level, front to back, add X chocks. Deploy stabilizers, once on the ground, give an extra 1/4 turn. Do not lift with the stabilizers.

For the tongue, always use a large enough block of wood, to ensure the tongue is stable.
 
Our trailer only has 2 rear wheels so the X chock is not an option for us I'm guessing? I've seen some people drive the trailers wheels onto planks of wood to raise one side up but I'm weary of that too. Is there wheel chocks someone can reccomend that could be used to raise one side of a trailer with only 2 wheels? Or am I missing the point of wheel chocks? I thought they were just to stop wheels from moving down a hill. I'm looking for the safest way to prop up one side of the trailer(typically the side with the awning). It was a real pain walking around, eating and sleeping on a slant.
 
Javin said:
Our trailer only has 2 rear wheels so the X chock is not an option for us I'm guessing? I've seen some people drive the trailers wheels onto planks of wood to raise one side up but I'm weary of that too. Is there wheel chocks someone can reccomend that could be used to raise one side of a trailer with only 2 wheels? Or am I missing the point of wheel chocks? I thought they were just to stop wheels from moving down a hill. I'm looking for the safest way to prop up one side of the trailer(typically the side with the awning). It was a real pain walking around, eating and sleeping on a slant.
Click to expand...

We camp on a sloped beach at least 10 days a year, and every time we do there is a new opportunity to level. We carry a shovel with us along with wood blocks for leveling. The Uphill side, we dig where the tire will lower into the hole, then level the rig on the downhill side with blocks. This helps out with the overall height our rig ends up on the downhill side, avoiding a giant step to get into our Motorhome. Same is true with a trailer.
 
Javin said:
Our trailer only has 2 rear wheels so the X chock is not an option for us I'm guessing? That's correct

.. snip... wheel chocks ... I thought they were just to stop wheels from moving down a hill. That's correct

I'm looking for the safest way to prop up one side of the trailer(typically the side with the awning). It was a real pain walking around, eating and sleeping on a slant.
Click to expand...
Also, refrigerators need to very close to level to work properly.
 
So I would never avoid those great waterside sites, but as everyone here points out, come prepared. Andersen Levellers are great as a couple have stated; I love mine too. If you find these too rich, you can also use the "lego blocks" under the wheels. I really like @SloPoke's idea about digging a hole, have to remember that myself for next time.

One thing to watch on these waterfront sites is ground stability. Most of the waterfront sites at our favorite park have very sandy soil. I find that the Andersen's tend to just drive themselves down into the soft ground as much as they level, so I get about 2" lift with the other 2" below the ground level. The easiest way around this is to spread weight out more; carry some 12" square plywood pieces or lego blocks to place under wheels and jacks to spread the weight out more if your site is very sandy. Before I got the Andersen's, I would lose the first level of the legos into the sand before they would support the weight. Things to keep in mind.

If the soil is unstable, you might keep an eye on level as your time progresses. Sometimes I will loosen the stab jacks relevel front to back with the tongue jack and then re-lower the stabs again just to keep things on an even keel and prevent overloading one corner jack if the others are sinking more.
 
Yes you need to back your trailer up onto blocks, planks, lego's or other methods. Everyone does it and it is safe to do. I use a combination of 2x6's and 2x8's to back our trailer up onto. Once leveled side to side the tongue jack handles the level front to back.

Your trailer needs to be level before deploying your stabilizers.

Cheers
 
Like everybody else said, block the wheels to get level and then the stabilizers just keep you steady. As you found out, they're not designed to support much weight or torsional load.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
I actually back the camper into the spot I want, than use a 12 ton bottle jack to lift the side of the trailer that needs to go up, and put the "lego" blocks under the wheels. Lower the jack so the wheels are resting on the blocks, check the level, and adjust as needed. Never could get the blocks to stay still while I backed over them, they always slid.
 
johnsoax said:
I actually back the camper into the spot I want, than use a 12 ton bottle jack to lift the side of the trailer that needs to go up, and put the "lego" blocks under the wheels. Lower the jack so the wheels are resting on the blocks, check the level, and adjust as needed. Never could get the blocks to stay still while I backed over them, they always slid.
Click to expand...

Each to their on. Personally I think you are doing it the hard way, but if it works for you and you are happy, that is good. Much easier for me to back up onto how ever much height I need and then chock all the wheels and unhook. Level front to back last. Then put stabilizers down and secure. Good to go at that point.
 
If your raising one side up with levelling blocks I'm guessing you only use wheel chock on opposite side? Or can wheel chocks be used with levelling blocks on the same wheel?
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.
 
I learned the following - never detach your chains until you are off the hitch ball.

How did I learn this, I chocked one side, did not notice how much downhill the site was, and watched it roll sideways than down hill.

Lots of really nice people gathered round and pushed my pup back to the site.

35 years ago but it I still never undo my chains first.
 
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