DC Power issue

[MikeNChelle]

Having what I believe to be a converter issue. 2016 Jayco Pinnacle. I've got 13.6 to 14.4 volts coming out of the converter, but only 1.7 volts making it to the batteries. I've replaced the converter and batteries just 2 weeks ago. Batteries will not stay charged as 1.7 volts in is not enough. Checked all fuses that I can find. Any ideas what I am missing?

 

[Route 66 Traveler]

Wires from the converter to the battery are at fault, possibly a blown battery fuse, battery disconnect turned off, or a very bad ground wire connection. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out if you have a volt/ohm meter.

 

[MikeNChelle]

I've got a meter. All fuses have continuity that I can find. All 12 volt system are working, but just not charging the batteries. I have a charger connected to the batteries at the moment to keep them charged

 

[JimD]

Where exactly did you measure 1.7 volts? If that was across the battery then either your battery is toast or your meter is not working properly. By chance was the meter set to measure AC instead of DC? Is this a measurement of the cable coming from the converter without being connected to the battery?

Measuring 13-14+ volts at the converter shows it is working but for some reason it is not getting to the battery. If you measured across the 2 wires right at the converter, try measuring from the positive converter cable to the metal chassis.

As mentioned, the problem can only be in the connection from the converter to the battery. The negative connection will be done through the metal chassis so inspect the ground connections at each end (converter and battery frame connections).

The positive connection will be a cable run straight to the battery probably through a fuse or circuit breaker. Find that connection and measure from each lug to metal ground. Each side should measure 13+ volts if the converter is running or 12 volts (battery voltage) if the converter is off.

I have attached the wiring diagram that shows a typical connection from converter to battery. Not much going on there. It should be easy to trace, just don't forget the ground connections.

 

[MikeNChelle]

Where exactly did you measure 1.7 volts? If that was across the battery then either your battery is toast or your meter is not working properly. By chance was the meter set to measure AC instead of DC? Is this a measurement of the cable coming from the converter without being connected to the battery?

Measuring 13-14+ volts at the converter shows it is working but for some reason it is not getting to the battery. If you measured across the 2 wires right at the converter, try measuring from the positive converter cable to the metal chassis.

As mentioned, the problem can only be in the connection from the converter to the battery. The negative connection will be done through the metal chassis so inspect the ground connections at each end (converter and battery frame connections).

The positive connection will be a cable run straight to the battery probably through a fuse or circuit breaker. Find that connection and measure from each lug to metal ground. Each side should measure 13+ volts if the converter is running or 12 volts (battery voltage) if the converter is off.

I have attached the wiring diagram that shows a typical connection from converter to battery. Not much going on there. It should be easy to trace, just don't forget the ground connections.

I'm getting the 1.7 volts from the 2 leads at the batteries when they are disconnected from the batteries. I have the meter set to DC and have checked the grounds that I can find and all look clean and are solid connections

 

[Cdove]

Service required do not shift gears

My battery was dead so I used the RV jumper battery (2021 Jayco Melbourne). After I got the Sprinter started I received a warning “SERVICE REQUIRED DO NOT SHIFT GEARS” I ran it for an hour but the message won’t go away. Now I’m stuck.
How do I clear the warning

 

[Vicr]

CDove I see this is your first post. If you have a motorhome you should post there so as to get an appropriate answer.

 

[MikeNChelle]

Looks like our issue is a bad battery disconnect switch. Ordered a new one and will get this problem behind me.

 

[MikeNChelle]

Well I thought it was fixed....NOPE

We put in the new disconnect switch and it appeared that things were working right. Fast forward to the next day when using the lights and such and the battery voltage drops to 11.7. The green light is flashing saying it is charging the batteries, but it really isn't. The fans have never run on this new converter so I am wondering if I have a faulty "New" converter. I ordered another one and will put it in this Friday. We leave for Colorado Saturday so I am hoping this is the issue. For now I have to keep a battery charger on to keep voltage up.
On another note. I can hear the inverter running on an off. Does anyone know if the fridge circuit runs through the inverter even when on shore power? I can't understand why the inverter would be running all the time on shore power.

 

[Grumpy]

On another note. I can hear the inverter running on an off. Does anyone know if the fridge circuit runs through the inverter even when on shore power? I can't understand why the inverter would be running all the time on shore power.

The INVERTER has a built in transfer switch so the internal electronics will heat up and the cooling fan will kick it.

 

[Kevin Cooper]

We put in the new disconnect switch and it appeared that things were working right. Fast forward to the next day when using the lights and such and the battery voltage drops to 11.7. The green light is flashing saying it is charging the batteries, but it really isn't. The fans have never run on this new converter so I am wondering if I have a faulty "New" converter. I ordered another one and will put it in this Friday. We leave for Colorado Saturday so I am hoping this is the issue. For now I have to keep a battery charger on to keep voltage up.
On another note. I can hear the inverter running on an off. Does anyone know if the fridge circuit runs through the inverter even when on shore power? I can't understand why the inverter would be running all the time on shore power.

Inverters typically have an internal by-pass or transfer switch in them. You might have a resettable circuit breaker that is keeping from charging the battery. My house batteries went dead and I started the engine to let the alternator charge it. The breaker is typically rated at 50 amps. It was a 1” thin black square and had a reset button about the size of the clicker on an ink pen. Hope you find your issue soon!

 

[MikeNChelle]

Another fly in the Oinment

So the batteries will charge to 13.6 volts while driving down the road connected to the truck, which is a good thing. As soon as I disconnect from the truck and switch to shore power they will drain down to 12.1 - 12.5volts. I am stumped to what my issue is or where it is coming from. Any ideas would help.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[JimD]

So the batteries will charge to 13.6 volts while driving down the road connected to the truck, which is a good thing. As soon as I disconnect from the truck and switch to shore power they will drain down to 12.1 - 12.5volts. I am stumped to what my issue is or where it is coming from. Any ideas would help.
Thanks,
Mike

First off, do your 120 volt items work (TV, microwave, AC) when connected to shore power? If not then your problem is with the shore power side of things.

If only the battery level is the problem then you have a problem with your converter. When connected to shore power the converter will take its 120 volt input and convert it to the required charge voltages for the battery. Try cycling the breaker that protects the converter. If there still is no charge voltage then you will need to locate the converter and use a voltmeter to measure its output (if any). If it is not sending 13-14 volts out, verify that 120 volts is getting to it. If you have 120 volts in but nothing out, the converter is bad. Don't know if there are any fuses on it but that would also be something to check if they are there.

 

[MikeNChelle]

First off, do your 120 volt items work (TV, microwave, AC) when connected to shore power? If not then your problem is with the shore power side of things.

If only the battery level is the problem then you have a problem with your converter. When connected to shore power the converter will take its 120 volt input and convert it to the required charge voltages for the battery. Try cycling the breaker that protects the converter. If there still is no charge voltage then you will need to locate the converter and use a voltmeter to measure its output (if any). If it is not sending 13-14 volts out, verify that 120 volts is getting to it. If you have 120 volts in but nothing out, the converter is bad. Don't know if there are any fuses on it but that would also be something to check if they are there.

Everything works as it is supposed to on the 110 AC Side. We have 13.6Volts coming from the converter (which we just changed twice) its just not all getting to the batteries. I can trace the lines from the converter to the batteries and when I test the ground it still shows 13.6, just not at the batteries.

 

[JimD]

Everything works as it is supposed to on the 110 AC Side. We have 13.6Volts coming from the converter (which we just changed twice) its just not all getting to the batteries. I can trace the lines from the converter to the batteries and when I test the ground it still shows 13.6, just not at the batteries.

OK, it is confirmed that the converter is operational. When tracing the cable from it to the battery I assume you are measuring to a metal frame ground. If so then that tells me the converter's ground is probably good.

If you haven't already verified that the battery's ground connection to the frame is clean and tight, that might be something to check.

So, if the grounds on each end are good that pretty much leaves the positive cable run. Have you found a circuit breaker or fuse in the cable run near the battery? Most likely there is one. That would be a good spot to verify voltage to metal ground. It should read the same voltage on each stud and those connections need to be clean and tight.

 

[MikeNChelle]

OK, it is confirmed that the converter is operational. When tracing the cable from it to the battery I assume you are measuring to a metal frame ground. If so then that tells me the converter's ground is probably good.

If you haven't already verified that the battery's ground connection to the frame is clean and tight, that might be something to check.

So, if the grounds on each end are good that pretty much leaves the positive cable run. Have you found a circuit breaker or fuse in the cable run near the battery? Most likely there is one. That would be a good spot to verify voltage to metal ground. It should read the same voltage on each stud and those connections need to be clean and tight.

Grounds are clean. There is 2 of those relay type fuses in line from the positive battery post. I will check through voltage on them. I only checked continuity, not voltage. Do those go bad and can they have a voltage drop when they have continuity? I didn't think of that.

 

[MikeNChelle]

Well after I changed the converter again, I have power going to the batteries. Guess my new converter was bad. Now I couldn't get the batteries to hold a charge. Come to find out one of my new AGM batteries was no good. Problems solved

 

[MikeNChelle]

My issue is back. Ii requested the wiring schematic from Jayco for my unit 4 weeks ago. Still nothing from them. I am currently on hold for over 30 minutes trying to talk to someone. I ran a new ground from the battery to the frame and still having an issue. This problem is not constant. Last week I was getting 13.6 Volts to the batteries and I thought all was good. Now I have 12.5 volts at the batteries, but showing 13.6 at the converter. I am ready to get a new camper. Oh, and the squirrel cage blew up on our main AC last night.

 

[craigav]

My issue is back. Ii requested the wiring schematic from Jayco for my unit 4 weeks ago. Still nothing from them. I am currently on hold for over 30 minutes trying to talk to someone. I ran a new ground from the battery to the frame and still having an issue. This problem is not constant. Last week I was getting 13.6 Volts to the batteries and I thought all was good. Now I have 12.5 volts at the batteries, but showing 13.6 at the converter. I am ready to get a new camper. Oh, and the squirrel cage blew up on our main AC last night.

Troubleshooting an issue like this is much easier to do when it is occurring. I suggest you take a step back and keep it simple. What is needed is to check the voltage all along the circuit, start again at the converter, then to the battery area and find where you have 13.6v and then check each component (self resetting breakers, disconnect switches, terminal blocks, etc.) and determine where you have 13.6 and where you don't, and in particular pay close attention to each connection in an attempt to find one side of the component that has 13.6v and where the other side doesn't. ~CA

 

[JimD]

My issue is back. Ii requested the wiring schematic from Jayco for my unit 4 weeks ago. Still nothing from them. I am currently on hold for over 30 minutes trying to talk to someone. I ran a new ground from the battery to the frame and still having an issue. This problem is not constant. Last week I was getting 13.6 Volts to the batteries and I thought all was good. Now I have 12.5 volts at the batteries, but showing 13.6 at the converter. I am ready to get a new camper. Oh, and the squirrel cage blew up on our main AC last night.

Good try at the new ground wire as you have reduced the equation from three to two. Remaining possibilities:

1. The ground connection for the converter.

2. The positive cable feed from the converter to the battery. If the problem is currently happening, check the voltage on each side of the fuse/circuit breaker that is inline with the cable run. It will be near the battery. Should be the same voltage on each side. If the problem isn't occurring then you may just want to take a shot at replacing that fuse/circuit breaker. The only other thing in the equation is the actual cable but that would be a long shot as it wouldn't repair itself at random. A bad connection at any connection point could cause the problem.

Don't give up. I can tell you for a fact that once you finally fix this issue you will be so happy and proud of the fact that you stuck with it. It is a great feeling to troubleshoot and resolve an issue.