E-450 manifold flange exhaust leak.

[CrowCross]

I have an exhaust leak around the E-450 manifold flange passenger side.

Has anyone dealt with this?

A local truck mechanic says this happens with the E-450 and is extremely hard to work on. Especially if the flange bolt is broken and you have to drill it out.

Edit....I just found this:
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5/e450-exhaust-manifold-studs-74399.html

 

[craigav]

Interesting. I wasn't aware that this is a common issue but for sure the previous post indicates that replacing any broken exhaust manifold bolts can be very challenging.

I wonder as a proactive measure if allowing the engine to warm up a bit longer before any heavy usage and a longer cool down period prior to shutting down the engine would help. I would think so, but maybe it doesn't matter. ~CA

 

[Grumpy]

Interesting. I wasn't aware that this is a common issue but for sure the previous post indicates that replacing any broken exhaust manifold bolts can be very challenging.

Never heard of it before either.

 

[Old and soft]

My e99 5.4 f250 cracked manifolds, spit sparkplugs, and ate coils. V10 is the same thing with 2 more cylinders. Maybe the 3 valves are better?

 

[CrowCross]

I can put my hands up around the flange and feel and hear the exhaust...then it gets hot.

Nothing visually looks bad, for instance I don't see any cracks and both bolts don't look broken.

Anyway it won't pass inspection which is due in September......My next question can you harm the motor by driving it in this condition?

 

[jyh818]

V10s are notorious for exhaust manifold studs snapping. At least with the 2 valve ones. It doesn't happen often on the 5.4L V8.

 

[craigav]

I can put my hands up around the flange and feel and hear the exhaust...then it gets hot.

Nothing visually looks bad, for instance I don't see any cracks and both bolts don't look broken.

Anyway it won't pass inspection which is due in September......My next question can you harm the motor by driving it in this condition?

Originally I was thinking you were talking about the exhaust manifold gasket leaking and the bolts (studs) that hold the manifold on the engine. However, I realize now that you are talking about the flange itself where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold, is that correct? If so, that is a lot easier to fix (compared to the manifold gasket and studs) especially if you spray the stud nuts well with a good penetrating oil a few times (over a few days) prior to changing the gasket.

It is not common to damage an engine that has an exhaust flange gasket leak, but it is possible to cause valve damage especially if you don't take it easy (and depends on how much leak there is). I would not recommend driving that wasn't really necessary, although a small leak would be much less concerning.

Did you get a repair quote from your mechanic? ~CA

 

[craigav]

BTW, another point to share. The link in your original post is specific to the exhaust manifold's gasket and studs\bolts to the engine, not the flange where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold. I would have to take a closer look at mine, but I suspect changing the exhaust flange gasket could be a relatively quick and easy task if you have good 6-point deep socket set, swivel, and extension, and you don't run into issues with unbolting the flange. I would suspect that you may not have any issues unbolting the flange, especially if you use penetrating oil (spray) liberally for a few days prior to doing the work. ~CA

 

[CrowCross]

Thanks ~CA. You gave me hope. I WD-40'd it today and will do it agin tomorrow.

No, I didn't get a price. The mechanic told me if the bolt has to be drilled out they have a special template....but the exhaust manifold may have to come off or the engine pulled due to lack of room in a RV where there is no inner fender that can be removed like an ordinary truck has.

 

[craigav]

WD-40 is a good all around spray for many things, but it isn't nearly as good as a spray that is specifically made for penetrating rusted or corroded bolts. I would suggest to purchase this or something very similar and labeled "Penetrating" oil.

Also, you may want to check out some youtubes regarding exhaust bolts and how to remove them in a manner that significantly lowers the risk of breaking the stud. Generally speaking, you may have to slowly tighten some (1/4 turn) then slowly loosen some (1/2 turn) and then repeat that over and over.

Also, you may have to do both sides at the same time in order for the exhaust crossover to drop low enough to repair the side that is leaking (that is not always required and I haven't looked at my V10). Also most recommendations are to replace the studs\nuts whenever you do this type of work (for several reasons, in particular if they ever need to come off again one day). The cost of the studs and nuts is under 20$ at RockAuto but should also be available at most auto parts stores.

Studs example
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9667736&cc=3353862&pt=13936

and Blaster

 

[craigav]

BTW, one last thought for now, just another FYI, when you either re-use the existing studs and nuts or even if you replace them, be sure to pickup some Permatex Anti-Seize lubricant to coat the studs prior to re-assembly. This will be extremely valuable to have done if you ever (or the next person) have to remove them in the future. ~CA

 

[pauldeere]

You dont say what year e-450 you have or how many miles are on the motor. This info. might help if someone else has had a similar problem.

 

[CrowCross]

you dont say what year e-450 you have or how many miles are on the motor. This info. Might help if someone else has had a similar problem.

2016 45,000

 

[Johnynorthland]

Yup, it’s common. I talked to my mechanic about it and he said he recommends changing the studs now that it’s still new and not seized in! But I’m still under ford warranty! So I’ll hold off for now!

 

[CrowCross]

Finally fixed the leak. Had to replace the cross over exhaust section. Leak ended up being under the exhaust clamp and hid from view.

Drove the RV about 5,000 miles...it was a bit loud...

Total cost was about $1300 for parts and shipping.

 

[SmokeyBear-JAY]

Ford E-Series Vans

This forum is good for coach questions/problems but for Ford specific questions you may try posting your request/questions here. You may get more qualified answers.

Ford E-Series Vans

 

[CrowCross]

This forum is good for coach questions/problems but for Ford specific questions you may try posting your request/questions here. You may get more qualified answers.

Ford E-Series Vans

Yes, this forum is great for helping one solve problems.

Almost everything has been seen before.