Electrical issue.

[dacholiday]

We have a 2005 Jayco Eagle 30amp. Our power supply is 50amp, so we ordered a 50 to 30 amp adapter, that works fine. What we are wanting to do is run another line inside the camper to hook up an electric heater. There are two ways we can do this. We can buy a 50 amp to a split of one 30amp plug and one 15amp plug. This item. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRN4C73/

Or we can order a 50 amp to two 30 amp plugs, this item. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VKM9NQ and then get this item to make 3 separate 15 amp connections. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G98371/

They will be living in the camper all winter, and since they don't want to just rely on gas heat, the electric option is needed.
I just don't know which option would be safest. So I need the advice of long time campers.
Thanks

 

[craigav]

I would have a more specific reply if it was known how many watts of electric heat will be needed and in use. Short of that, your second option would be my preference for providing the most potential, I may would add a 30a RV extension cord between the two adapters. ~CA

 

[dacholiday]

I would have a more specific reply if it was known how many watts of electric heat will be needed and in use. Short of that, your second option would be my preference for providing the most potential, I may would add a 30a RV extension cord between the two adapters. ~CA

1500 watts max on the heater. Plus they will be using the tv and stereo, computer and maybe some other small appliances. but not all at once(I hope)

Explain the 30am rv extension cord. I don't understand that one.

 

[craigav]

I have ran a 1500w heater without the need for anything more than a 30a connection, now if the water heater was running on electric I would need to turn the heater to the medium (~1000w) setting. In any case, doing like you are planning could easily run two or maybe 3 electric heaters and still have plenty to spare.

Starting at the pedestal where you plug in your 50a adapter, Either adapter you use you will plug in your 30a RV power cord, the other connection if you go with the 2x30a outlets is where I would use a 30a RV extension cord and the end of that to the RV and then plug in the last adapter you shared in your first comment and plug your heater(s) into that adapter.

The best answer is up to what you think will be needed at maximum needs, with only one 1500w heater the first option would work just fine with a single heavy duty standard extension cord, two heaters though, I would use your second option but again I would also use a 30a rv extension cord between the two adapters you listed in the second option of your comment. ~CA

 

[Camper_bob]

A lot of times a pedestal will have 50A, 30A, and a 20A (or sometimes 15A) socket setup. If that's the case, I would run the regular 30A to the camper, and run a separate HD, outdoor rated extension cord for the heater to the 15/20A outlet.

The logic being that the more adapters and extensions you put in the chain, the more voltage drop, the more resistance is created, and more heat in the circuit.

Chances are high they'll only need the 1 heater, but they can run another smaller one on the camper's regular outlets if needed. Gas heat can supplement if/when needed. Of course, they won't be able to run the microwave, coffee maker, and the 2nd heater, and water heater on electric, all at once on the camper's built-in 30A. Our water heater alone on electric pulls 11A.

If you have ONLY 50A, adapting to 30A, I would just use as few adapters as possible to get the job done. And personally if you're running any extension cords, I would get them as thick as you can, and as short as possible to get the job done.

Also, what kind of winter are we talking about? Snow? Temps dropping below freezing for days at a time? I know in our 33 ft travel trailer with full wall slide, one 1500W space heater could make it HOT in the camper if we wanted, down to around the freezing mark. At night when it would get a lot colder, the gas furnace would kick on for a few minutes an hour maybe.

I get kind of antsy about this because I've melted stuff before, so just be careful.

 

[dacholiday]

I understand now, I was having a brain fart moment.
I believe one heater will be all they need, as they do intend to use the gas heat some when it gets below freezing, just to keep the basement and tank area from freezing up.

Your suggestion for the drop cord is a great idea, and I actually found a 25ft drop cord that has the 3 15amp plugs on one end. Just need to figure out how to get that large 3 prong connector inside.
https://www.amazon.com/Parkworld-885880A-Adapter-Handle-Lighted/dp/B07QFXXCFM

 

[dacholiday]

A lot of times a pedestal will have 50A, 30A, and a 20A (or sometimes 15A) socket setup. If that's the case, I would run the regular 30A to the camper, and run a separate HD, outdoor rated extension cord for the heater to the 15/20A outlet.

The logic being that the more adapters and extensions you put in the chain, the more voltage drop, the more resistance is created, and more heat in the circuit.

Chances are high they'll only need the 1 heater, but they can run another smaller one on the camper's regular outlets if needed. Gas heat can supplement if/when needed. Of course, they won't be able to run the microwave, coffee maker, and the 2nd heater, and water heater on electric, all at once on the camper's built-in 30A. Our water heater alone on electric pulls 11A.

If you have ONLY 50A, adapting to 30A, I would just use as few adapters as possible to get the job done. And personally if you're running any extension cords, I would get them as thick as you can, and as short as possible to get the job done.

Also, what kind of winter are we talking about? Snow? Temps dropping below freezing for days at a time? I know in our 33 ft travel trailer with full wall slide, one 1500W space heater could make it HOT in the camper if we wanted, down to around the freezing mark. At night when it would get a lot colder, the gas furnace would kick on for a few minutes an hour maybe.

I get kind of antsy about this because I've melted stuff before, so just be careful.

Our pedestal only has 50 amp. It has one regular 20amp receptacle but it has never worked.

We live in upstate SC. We don't get a lot of snow, but come January we do get quite a few days of back to back cold, and even a few days in the teens on a normal basis.
We're thinking we can run the one heater and the tv in the living room off the extra 30 amps. One small fireplace heater should keep that small a camper (30 ft) warm. And they will be using the water heater and fridge on electric.

I want them to be as safe as possible. They will be living in it full time until they get established here with good jobs and some funds saved up to buy a home. They are moving from Florida to here, so winter will be quite a shock to their senses after living in Florida for the past 18 years.

 

[Vicr]

You can use the adapters and everything will work just fine until their is an overcurrent situation, or damage to the "20 amp line" and with no over current protection ( NEC violation) you are risking a fire. You can ask any EE, electrical designer or licensed electrician (which I am) and they will tell you the same. Use at your own risk.

 

[craigav]

I agree with Vicr especially if you want to keep everything as safe as possible. I also realize that there are a lot of RV'rs that use 50to30a adapters and similar adapters which present a higher risk factor than what the NEC would be happy with yet they are in common usage and I suspect most RV'rs are not aware of what the risks actually are. Personally I would only recommend an adapter for temporary usage only.

With that in mind daholiday, I suspect that for the cost of the adapters that it would not be much more costly (could be less) to have an electrician come out and repair the 20a outlet on your "Our pedestal only has 50 amp. It has one regular 20amp receptacle but it has never worked." or better yet to install one of these in the link below if you own or are responsible for your RV power connection. Also to mention, if the 20a isn't working then either it was never connected or more concerning would be that the wires going to it have lost connection, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to have your RV power panel inspected anyway.

If you call an electrician out for your current setup, consider changing your 50a outlet to a 30a rv outlet and fix the 20a outlet and have both outlets protected with the appropriately sized breakers (or install a 3 outlet setup as in the link below). ~CA

https://www.menards.com/main/outdoo...546118-c-6440.htm?tid=3235ec29b9e0027f&ipos=7

 

[Camper_bob]

Our pedestal only has 50 amp. It has one regular 20amp receptacle but it has never worked.

We live in upstate SC. We don't get a lot of snow, but come January we do get quite a few days of back to back cold, and even a few days in the teens on a normal basis.
We're thinking we can run the one heater and the tv in the living room off the extra 30 amps. One small fireplace heater should keep that small a camper (30 ft) warm. And they will be using the water heater and fridge on electric.

I want them to be as safe as possible. They will be living in it full time until they get established here with good jobs and some funds saved up to buy a home. They are moving from Florida to here, so winter will be quite a shock to their senses after living in Florida for the past 18 years.

Personally I would drop a little coin on an electrician and get the pedestal 20A fixed before I would run adapters & splitters. In the long run, it's the safest way in my opinion. Even if you don't do it right now, I would plan on getting it done ASAP. If you're running relatively low draw items, I don't think it's necessarily as big a deal, but a heater is not that. Personally I wouldn't take the chance if I had another way.

I think Vicr can be a little "strict" sometimes (and as a professional, he should be), but in this case, I completely agree. That's a 50A breaker, and by the time you trip it (if ever), wires that are designed to carry 20 or 30A have melted, and fires can be started.

Like I said, I'm a little more conservative with these things since I discovered I made a questionable connection in my own camper several years ago. Something wasn't working right, so I opened up the j-box where the connection was made, and it's only by sheer luck I didn't burn up my entire camper. Needless to say, I'm A LOT more careful about such things.

 

[Camper_bob]

I agree with Vicr especially if you want to keep everything as safe as possible. I also realize that there are a lot of RV'rs that use 50to30a adapters and similar adapters which present a higher risk factor than what the NEC would be happy with yet they are in common usage and I suspect most RV'rs are not aware of what the risks actually are. Personally I would only recommend an adapter for temporary usage only.

With that in mind daholiday, I suspect that for the cost of the adapters that it would not be much more costly (could be less) to have an electrician come out and repair the 20a outlet on your "Our pedestal only has 50 amp. It has one regular 20amp receptacle but it has never worked." or better yet to install one of these in the link below if you own or are responsible for your RV power connection. Also to mention, if the 20a isn't working then either it was never connected or more concerning would be that the wires going to it have lost connection, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to have your RV power panel inspected anyway.

If you call an electrician out for your current setup consider changing your 50a outlet to a 30a rv outlet and fix the 20a outlet and have both outlets protected with the appropriately sized breakers (or install a 3 outlet setup as in the link below). ~CA

https://www.menards.com/main/outdoo...546118-c-6440.htm?tid=3235ec29b9e0027f&ipos=7

+1

I run that exact adapter very often, but I run a Hughes Watchdog 30A, and it is VERY strict about over-current. Sometimes it's frustrating, but it does exactly what it's supposed to do.

 

[Bladerunner44]

+1

I run that exact adapter very often, but I run a Hughes Watchdog 30A, and it is VERY strict about over-current. Sometimes it's frustrating, but it does exactly what it's supposed to do.

/
I also run this splitter on occasion. i have a second A/C which i run off a separate 15/20 circuit. In many campgrounds the 15/20 amp circuit is no longer working. I was told by several campground hosts if you want a working circuit call and electrician. I use the 50 amp to 30 /20 adapter and it works great. I have over current protection on my coach.

 

[Camper_bob]

/
I also run this splitter on occasion. i have a second A/C which i run off a separate 15/20 circuit. In many campgrounds the 15/20 amp circuit is no longer working. I was told by several campground hosts if you want a working circuit call and electrician. I use the 50 amp to 30 /20 adapter and it works great. I have over current protection on my coach.

Just curious, are you talking about the 50 to 30/20 splitter/adapter that is mentioned in this thread? If so, and you run the 20A side directly to your A/C, where is the over-current protection on that leg?

In my case, I would have to put the Watchdog at the post, before the splitter, which I couldn't do because it's 30A on both sides. So, while my 30A coach shore power is protected from over-current by the Watchdog, that's it. Anything else coming out of the 50A at the post would be at the mercy of the post's 50A breaker.

 

[Vicr]

/
I also run this splitter on occasion. i have a second A/C which i run off a separate 15/20 circuit. In many campgrounds the 15/20 amp circuit is no longer working. I was told by several campground hosts if you want a working circuit call and electrician. I use the 50 amp to 30 /20 adapter and it works great. I have over current protection on my coach.

So, as a professional licensed electrician please explain to me where is the over current protection in your coach for an extension cord plugged into your 50 to 30/20 adaptor?

 

[Old and soft]

Some bob villa type ran our porch outlet off of 1 leg of a 230 volt circuit. I am sure the 2 small strings of christmas lites draw fewer amps than a space heater. Something went wrong and started a smoldering fire.
Knocked a hole in the drywall in the garage and doused the fire with water. The one leg of the breaker did not trip the other leg of the breaker when doused. Could hear the breaker in the basement out in the garage. Dont know how this didn't turn out worse than some charred cedar trim boards and a hole in some drywall. We were gpne all evening the night before.
It's called ac and dc theory because some mathematics genius think they know how it works.
If you want the safest route, fix the 20a outlet. Don't be a bob villa.

 

[dacholiday]

I'm not sure what route we are going now as I'm totally confused. I will wait until they get here in November and let them decide what they want to do. I want them to be safe. So I will explain it all to them.
I am now thinking we might go with the splitter that splits 30/20 and and add a surge protector to the 30 amp leg and use a good surge protector inside where they will plug in the heater.