F150, 5.5, Elevated deck and Drawer plan Ideas

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

The floor of the bed will be lined with the cut-offs from the 4x8 sheets,. When this sheets are cut for the deck pieces 66" long and 33" wide that will leave 2, 30 x 48 pieces I'll use to assemble (attaching each piece to one another with a thin strip of metal on the underside and make up the floor of the bed 48 x 60. That way the bed floor is flat for the 8 legs of the aluminum racks. I plan to line that floor piece with the plastic I talk about AND line the underside drawer with the same type plastic for ease of sliding OR runs of cutting board pieces, as my restaurant has an abundance of them, that I can sacrifice for my project. I have seen others in videos try to slice up the cheaper plastic boards and screw them in place, only to have them crack and break. If anything I can line the underside of the drawer with the same plastic wall covering that I use to line the top of the wood floor in the bed, for ease of movement.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

I know this may be a curve ball. But there are outlets in the Conn area that sells MDO plywood. This is paper skinned for a smooth surface and fir plywood interior. Its Roseburg plywood, which has long been a standard for marine use. You can paint it with a good quality enamel or even pigmented epoxy coatings and end up with a superior finish and surface for what you are doing. These folks also sell the Meranti plywood too.

Medium Density Overlay (MDO) | Exterior Grade Materials

We have a great selection of Exterior Grade Materials, which includes this Medium Density Overlay (MDO). Contact us for more information.

www.connply.com

Just as a side note, this type of plywood has been used for years on end for outdoor sign boards and held up without any real problems. Of course with any plywood you should seal the end grains too with whatever you are using for painting, if applicable.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

I know this may be a curve ball. But there are outlets in the Conn area that sells MDO plywood. This is paper skinned for a smooth surface and fir plywood interior. Its Roseburg plywood, which has long been a standard for marine use. You can paint it with a good quality enamel or even pigmented epoxy coatings and end up with a superior finish and surface for what you are doing. These folks also sell the Meranti plywood too.

Medium Density Overlay (MDO) | Exterior Grade Materials

We have a great selection of Exterior Grade Materials, which includes this Medium Density Overlay (MDO). Contact us for more information.

www.connply.com

Just as a side note, this type of plywood has been used for years on end for outdoor sign boards and held up without any real problems. Of course with any plywood you should seal the end grains too with whatever you are using for painting, if applicable.

Checked it out and called my local, reputable lumber source. WHOAH. $165 for 3/4", 4 x 8 sheet and $135 for 1/2" This project is not supposed to cost as much as a Decked system. Although thank you for your knowledge, it does look like a solid choice. Also, the added stress of not screwing up a cut or fasten would be too stressful! Let me mess up on the cheaper stuff.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

I spoke directly to the outlet in the link , which it looks like they have several outlets in Conn, and they gave me a cost of around 92 for the 1/2" IIRC. Its hard to believe that you got that cost. Of course I understand your position . On the other hand I don't like to do some things over, or struggle with items that just don't work to my needs. FWIW, this was an outdoor sign that I reclaimed and used in a large shed door. It was originally created back in the 1970s. Notice the veneers, just for your information when shopping.

If you are not sure about your setup, buy the thin 1/4" door skin and do cut patterns and lay the stuff out for your finished arrangement. Its worth the investment. Lay out your cuts on the flat sheet too and then check your measurements again in the bed.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

I spoke directly to the outlet in the link , which it looks like they have several outlets in Conn, and they gave me a cost of around 92 for the 1/2" IIRC. Its hard to believe that you got that cost. Of course I understand your position . On the other hand I don't like to do some things over, or struggle with items that just don't work to my needs. FWIW, this was an outdoor sign that I reclaimed and used in a large shed door. It was originally created back in the 1970s. Notice the veneers, just for your information when shopping.

If you are not sure about your setup, buy the thin 1/4" door skin and do cut patterns and lay the stuff out for your finished arrangement. Its worth the investment. Lay out your cuts on the flat sheet too and then check your measurements again in the bed.

It's definitely nice material. I looked them up; one outlet is 1:15 minutes from home, the other, exactly 55 minutes. I will

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Oops! Walked away before I was done with my reply and forget to come back...I will look locally for the best possible sheets of plywood, within reason for price. We'll see how it comes out. I'm gathering all my tools now, checking what fasteners I might already have and ordered a big bottle of Titebond Ultimate for the drawer boxes. I've been waiting for what feels like hurricane gust winds to subside here in CT. I'm hoping to get my wood tomorrow or Sunday. Monday and Tuesday are supposed to be much warmer and sunny, so I'll probably start the build on either day. If I get really creative and feel like it, maybe I'll make my own DIY video. It'd definitely be entertaining and open to massively fun criticism.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Found some wood. It is a bit of a drive away, but it's nice looking wood, just what I want/need and even with the drive/gas/time, the price looks really good, right? I'm confirming the price is not, PER SHEET.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Found some wood. It is a bit of a drive away, but it's nice looking wood, just what I want/need and even with the drive/gas/time, the price looks really good, right? I'm confirming the price is not, PER SHEET.

Price is $160 for all 4: 4 x 8 x 3/4 CABNET grade plywood. Thats good, I think.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Found my plywood! I think it's definitely overkill, but I think it's super nice stuff?? I got 4 full sheets ( 4x8x3/4) of this PLUS 2 more sheets that were cut down slightly, but are still really big and have paint on one side, for $150.

I cut one piece so far...it's been a while since I used the saw, so I bought myself a new plywood blade. I made all my lines and straight edge, but I was having a crazy time with it and couldn't figure out why. Then it hit me...I forgot to set the depth. The blade was set for duper depth. I backed it up to 1" and it went right through it very nicely. One little Boo-boo 'oopsie' on the edge, but that'll be hidden, all the way in the back of the bed.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

It looks a lot better than the BCX and CDX that you were showing earlier. The best I can tell too, looking at the face of the one, the faces look like its a single piece face, instead of a glue line running the 8" length. That means its rotary cut, if that's the case. A plus too..

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

It looks a lot better than the BCX and CDX that you were showing earlier. The best I can tell too, looking at the face of the one, the faces look like its a single piece face, instead of a glue line running the 8" length. That means its rotary cut, if that's the case. A plus too..

I was reading about that 'rotary cut' type. Yeah, this is nice stuff, looks like SEVEN ply? Almost too nice for my amateurish, wing-it, learn-as-I-go work. Gotta go tomorrow and pick up a long straight edge, so I can make my long cuts. For the one cross cut I managed to get in today, I used my 48" aluminum level clamped to the wood.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

With enough width on your working area, you can use another piece of the plywood as a straight edge. Just support the section that may be hanging off of the piece you wish to cut. Or a piece of 1 x lumber clamped to the surface as a guide for your skill saw. If you have a chalk box, just make a mark on your proposed cut area and then mark your slight difference of the room that your skill saw takes so that the blade cuts the expected line. I always go back and mark the chalk line with a sharpie or good pencil, since the skill saw blade will blow off the chalk as you cut.

With most skill saws set at that plywood thickness, the motor section should overhang your make shift guide as you cut your straight line. Measure across from the guide to the cut line, if you use a 1 x piece of wood,, if you have one laying around so that you know that its going to be straight as you cut your piece lengthways.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Here's photos of the wood after cutting with my crappy circular saw (new blade) then another cut, with the new DeWalt. Also, there are ZERO voids in this plywood.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

I figured today I need to stop cutting and get my base in place. I managed to get the racks secured together, drilling holes then adding bolts and wing nuts. I lined the truck's plywood bed floor with poly wall plastic stuff, for drawer slide ease, I stapled it along all the edges. Then, I put the rack in the truck (all one piece now.) I secured the tail gate end legs with L brackets, self tappers into the aluminum and wood screws into the plywood floor. Along the back, in order to anchor,, instead of wood screws that could potential pull out, I ran a ratchet strap across the top of the rack, running the ratchet portion under, behind a future drawer. I tightened it down, then secured the webbing across the top back with self tappers and washers. The only thing I should have done BEFORE putting the rack and securing in the truck, was to attach the wood run guides on the inside of the legs, to help with drawer alignment. Thats okay though...I can still access it, to get it done

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Realized I strayed from my plans. Stay tuned...

 

[Glamper64]

Looks like I missed some of the action...at least you got the plywood dilemma out of the way
It's still confusing when you say "cabinet" grade...to me that's a plywood or particle board core with a veneer of oak, maple, pine etc. It's used for stained cabinets and doors but only for interior. What you've picked is more of a "paint" grade exterior fir plywood which is ideal for your project and will take a nice finish...it's like you got overkill and at a good price
I've cut a lot of plywood in my life Seriously though...you want to be set up good and safe. You need a large table saw, a large flat space, and two steady people (one knowledgeable) to use it safely. You can go solo like I did if you're set up properly with table extensions and quite brave and strong like I was many years ago
You can cut plywood safely in your backyard or on your driveway as well. Place 2x4's on the flat on either side of the cut line under the plywood, and more pcs supporting the other sides of the pcs your cutting...in other words, as your cutting no pcs are moving/falling, all pcs are supported.
As far as actual cutting goes, you need two factory edge strips of the plywood at least 4" wide, one 4' & one 8' long a couple of clamps. The best/easiest way is to mark your cut on the ply and measure over the distance from the blade to the fence (usually 1 1/2") and clamp your straight edge there. Now adjust your 2x4's underneath, stand or kneel on the plywood and make the cut with the blade about 3'4" below plywood and repeat
Tip always use a good blade, don't cut nails, stay slightly behind the saw and don't be in a hurry, keep a strong grip on it at all times and until the blade stops, never drink and saw

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Okay, today was productive. I finished the floor of the truck, lining each side of the drawer openings with a 3" high runner. I countersunk self tapping screws going right through the plywood and into the aluminum legs, front and rear.

I spent a lot of time today trying my best to try and salvage some of those horrible cuts I did on day 1, but it's hard when you don't have a true square edge. I managed to salvage 2 of 4 of the bigger boards I cut for drawer sides. We'll see how hard of a time they give me when I try to build the drawer boxes. As far as the remainder of the cuts, they've been gong well.

I invested in a Kreg 'RipCut' and it has proven to be VERY handy for all the long cuts under 48". I broke out my table saw later yesterday and my giant 15 year old DeWalt miter saw...one of the last gifts my father bought me before he died. I attached it to a portable stand a few years ago. My God, it is heavy, so that stand was a welcome addition. It is a monster of a saw (12" blade.) Back in its day it was top of the line. These days that saw can't even cut a 10" wide board. No wonder the sliding miters are so popular. No way I'm getting rid of this one, though. When chopping the 10" wide boards, I'd cut, then flip them to complete the cut. My table saw is doing fine for what it is.

I have one drawer box ready for glue and staples. The other is nearly done, with just a bottom that still needs to be cut out.

Another nice day tomorrow. It's a shame I don't have a garage or place I can set up my stuff, instead of in my small driveway. I manage though and having to clean up a lot of my stuff forces me to put things back where they belong.

One of the photos you can see what looks to be a drawer taking shape...or a coffin.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Looks like I missed some of the action...at least you got the plywood dilemma out of the way
It's still confusing when you say "cabinet" grade...to me that's a plywood or particle board core with a veneer of oak, maple, pine etc. It's used for stained cabinets and doors but only for interior. What you've picked is more of a "paint" grade exterior fir plywood which is ideal for your project and will take a nice finish...it's like you got overkill and at a good price
I've cut a lot of plywood in my life Seriously though...you want to be set up good and safe. You need a large table saw, a large flat space, and two steady people (one knowledgeable) to use it safely. You can go solo like I did if you're set up properly with table extensions and quite brave and strong like I was many years ago
You can cut plywood safely in your backyard or on your driveway as well. Place 2x4's on the flat on either side of the cut line under the plywood, and more pcs supporting the other sides of the pcs your cutting...in other words, as your cutting no pcs are moving/falling, all pcs are supported.
As far as actual cutting goes, you need two factory edge strips of the plywood at least 4" wide, one 4' & one 8' long a couple of clamps. The best/easiest way is to mark your cut on the ply and measure over the distance from the blade to the fence (usually 1 1/2") and clamp your straight edge there. Now adjust your 2x4's underneath, stand or kneel on the plywood and make the cut with the blade about 3'4" below plywood and repeat
Tip always use a good blade, don't cut nails, stay slightly behind the saw and don't be in a hurry, keep a strong grip on it at all times and until the blade stops, never drink and saw

You're right! The plywood is exactly as you describe, overkill for a really good price. Thank you for all those tips. I'm pretty much doing all of them, except the drinking. Really, I'm literally 'Miss Saw Safety.' The reason my projects move along so slowly is because I take my time, take breaks (union worker ) and I really think about what I'm doing before I do it, ensuring everything is just right, before attempting to make any cuts. I opted to set up a full piece of plywood on my saw horses and work on a table surface. Im using scrap wood to make my cutting void space between project plywood and tabletop. I considered using the big 4x8 piece of insulation but I did not want to spend my days kneeling on the ground. These days it's harder to get up and very often, if kneeling, I get hamstring cramps. standing/workng at the plywood work table works well.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Early morning $CORE! 1 gallon of exterior paint (gray) $10 at WalMart.

 

[Glamper64]

Don't cheap out now Judy What's the brand name, "Jerry's"
I'd have to pay around $65 CAN + HST for a good quality paint n' primer @ H.D.
I would put a good primer on first for that extra good job/bond especially with that paint
Speaking of overkill, are you putting dividers in that coffin
Whatever works as far as saw set up goes as long as you're not binding the blade. I find working on a bench requires some stretching/reaching/bending which can be dangerous, plus you can see what you're doing
You need an 8' straight edge as well and always use one for all cuts...that way you'll always have a straight edge to measure from
It's coming along nicely and looking promising...keep the pics coming