F150, 5.5, Elevated deck and Drawer plan Ideas

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Taking my union break.

Got the one drawer all put together: stapled the bejesus along the bottom sides with 1.5" staples as well as glued with Titebond green label. Front is same height as box, rear end is 1" higher to account for drawer tilt when sild all the way out, keeping it from dropping too far in front. The plastic seems to work well as far as moving it in and out. Of course, it is empty right now, but I do not plan on loading it up with anything heavy. It's simply an efficient use the space in the bed. It is going to be very useful for groceries. Considering I've heard the guys refer to the F150 as a'grocery getter.'

I a straying from plans a bit. I have a fold flat step ladder I use to access my truck bed. I carry it all the time in the bed. I have decided to make its own compartment. I'm going to sacrifice some of the vertical space on drawer #2 side and make a shallow run, at the top of the open drawer sapce, for the ladder to slide into. It fits width wide perfectly in the area of the drawer space and its only 2 inches thick when folded.

That will make drawer #2 more shallow.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

You need an 8' straight edge as well and always use one for all cuts...that way you'll always have a straight edge to measure from
It's coming along nicely and looking promising...keep the pics coming

Luckily, this is a short bed, so there's nothing I need longer than 66", so I could get away with a shorter straight edge, after I lopped 30" off the end of a the plywood. For an edge I bought a $17, 72" I beam level from HF. It's working out well for lopping off the 30" off the end f the 8 foot plywood. The Kreg Rip Cut is an amazing adaptive tool for the more narrow (less than 48") cuts. I really like it.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

In general before i go back to my non-union job, I will leave you with one comment that has been the story of woodworkers around the world.
"Never trust someone with a clean shop" You either clean or you are productive. The more you want to accomplish sooner or later you will learn that those two never meets each other. This is a cool project and a very creative one.

Oh I almost forgot to suggest that I think you might need to weigh your truck when you finish this project. You might need another hitch and a few more adjustments to make sure your truck sits correctly. Okay I see a 2 x4 being swung in my direction. I am running really fast now.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

In general before i go back to my non-union job, I will leave you with one comment that has been the story of woodworkers around the world.
"Never trust someone with a clean shop" You either clean or you are productive. The more you want to accomplish sooner or later you will learn that those two never meets each other. This is a cool project and a very creative one.

Oh I almost forgot to suggest that I think you might need to weigh your truck when you finish this project. You might need another hitch and a few more adjustments to make sure your truck sits correctly. Okay I see a 2 x4 being swung in my direction. I am running really fast now.

Jayhawk, I'm keeping a close eye on what I've been adding. So far it's about the sum total of 3 sheets of plywood...probably about 200lb.

I am definitely the clean shop, less productive version. Since this is not my trade, I work slow and deliberately and always clean as I go. Every few cuts I use my handy, little Bauer 18v mini blower, ridding the area of sawdust. I always replace drill bits and driver bits immediately, to their boxes.

I just spend the better part of 3 hours making a stow area for my lightweight stepladder. I go to test it, slide the ladder in and the ladder fell right out. At that point I was thinking; "Stick a fork in her, she's done."

Tomorrow, I go back to my drawing board to figure out how to remedy the problem. Also, I need to make my second drawer. I haven't made it yet, as the height of it will be dependent on the remaining vertical space left after I complete my ladder stow space.

I had my neighbor snap my photo once I completed cutting and fitting the upper deck. My goodness, it is definitely interesting. I made a double chin, chin tuck pose (not attractive and the photo was taken in wide angle mode because my camera's normal lens is busted. It makes everything appear weirdly wide and out of proportion...including me. or maybe I really look like that? Good thing that deck can support 3,600lb.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

I think you are messing with us. I know Ford like to brag about their load capacities. But I don't believe that your truck has a payload of 3600 lbs, even with upside down Sumo shocks. . Better find the closest Cat Scales right away and report back to us immediately . Hopefully with the new hitch coming[won't tell any of your immediate surroundings of course] you can combine the trip and tweak things at the same time.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

The bed will be holding 3,600 lb while the actual truck tires have popped and the axle collapsed.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Don't cheap out now Judy What's the brand name, "Jerry's"
I'd have to pay around $65 CAN + HST for a good quality paint n' primer @ H.D.

Glamper...never go cheap. It's RUSTOLEUM BRAND! Dolphin gray. ON CLEARANCE FOR $10 AND they delivered it SAME DAY to my house, for FREE! Can't beat that! I'm not a fan of 'flat' but I guess I can't be too picky.

No work on the project today...too bad, too...it's going to be nearly 60 degrees and sunny today. The build takes a backset to the RV show, down the street at the Mohegan Sun. My sister and I like to go each year when it opens on Friday at 12 noon, to avoid the SAT/SUN crowds. This year I'm looking closely at units where bunks, or another floorplan that provides a sleeping space for my sister and/or daughter (so I don't always have to share a bed with her) as well as still having a place to sit to drink my coffee in the morning, if going outside isn't an option. My 22rb is great, but when my sister makes us 3, I lose the only seating I have in the camper, to her bed....my U dinette. Honestly, the Jay Feather sister to my camper that has bunks instead of the rear bath is a good option, except Jay Feather have short ceiling heights making the top bunk pretty shallow. I told her to get ready as she's going to be stuffing herself up into the bed, today.

I see the 22rb is listed as 'dealer stock only' usually this means they're going to be doing some changes, right?

 

[Jayhawk 29]

Several features on certain models of the bunkhouse to look at is that the fold up feature of some rear bucks and a rear door that gives you access to easily store gear inside, like even electric bikes and cargo boxes when the bunks are not always needed. Making up the big bunks can be a challenge, that lets you use a certain language not for general audiences.

The down side of mid range bunk models is that your bathroom gets smaller , This includes reduced enclosed cabinets for your bathroom towels and toiletries. I noticed something that I am dealing with is they reduced the black water capacity to 30 gallons versus 40 gallon tanks. I would also see what is now available in spread tandem axles, which I have not looked at in the 2025 year TTs.

Over the road towing is remarkably improved, IMHO. Check for any reduction of overhead cabinets, which I noticed when I was shopping myself last year in the 2024 models. The Jay Feather models have replaced a lot of the straight Jayflight models, which is now being sold in the lower SLX models. Look for many bunkhouses to have some features of the version of outdoor grill and fridge.

This is a big plus for chilled water that replaces a need for coolers and buying ice. Plus the grill expands the outdoor cooking for breakfast bacon and sausage, if you are a big breakfast eater.

I will add that a fridge in a slide is not always a good arrangement. So issues with warranties have come up with some owners choosing that setup.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

thanks for that reply and tips. Yes, today's trip will test out the feasibility of the potential smaller bathroom of that particular floorplan. If I opted to go longer, then the floorpans start to include the bathroom on the campside, with additional door. There's a VIBE model I really like, but these floorpans also measure out at approximately 33 feet. I'd like to not go longer than 30' if I can help it. That's why it'll be fun to go check out potential new units that are power packing to fit more people but keeping in the 30' range. I like the Coachmen Express models...they have the wide stance axles.

NOTE: an outdoor fridge is a must, for exactly like you say...all the beverages. As well as in the same cubby, some sort of storage spot or drawer. I use the exterior drawer in the 22rb's kitchen area for EVERYTHING. It holds things so you don't have to always run them inside.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

We need some show pictures of the latest and greatest gizmos and special never before seen layouts and half price sales. That will take us thru until we start out on our heavier travel miles. .

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

Believe it or not, I came away from Today's show having only seen ONE floorplan from one specific manufacturer that fit my new list of 'needs vs wants.' I have seen this line in videos but never considered them.

My sister came dressed to do her demonstration of attempting to crawl in and out of a typical bunk or lay on dinette sleeper. Every single model we encountered had the upper bunk situated too low. So low, that when an ADULT cannot crawl into them, as the vertical space is too shallow, EXCEPT for the Grey Wolf. The lower bunk had plenty of clearance for an adult of MY stature to crawl in and maneuver. Their decor is pleasant and it had the bathroom with the entry door, which I weirdly like. The feeling of the floodplain was nice, as mine is too, but with the additional sleeping space. Everything else about it is not as elevated in build as my Jay Feather, (literally, there was 2 entry steps vs. 3) but it felt adequate and good. Would I/will I trade? If I want to lose my shirt,...sure but, voyeurism has never been my thing.

Compared to last year, the show had WAY more drivable RVs. I think it's because these days the towable market is way more active/hot...no need to try and drive a bargain on something that'll sell any other week of the year at the regular price. It's the drivable market that's struggling right now, so I think the dealers emphasized them more, in order to move them.

There wasn't a single Forest River VIBE model, which is something I wanted to check out.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

GRAND FINALE!
The greater portion of my build is complete!

I completed the second drawer box today. It is shorter, just to make use of the wood I had and not cut into another piece of plywood. It is 48" vs 60". PLENTY of space for my needs.

The larger drawer appears to stick out, because early on, I realized I forgot to position the rack set further forward putting the end of the racks at 66 inches. Instead, I mistakenly pushed them against the back wall of the bed, creating a larger overhang of plywood and the drawer protrusion. The other drawer is shorter, so it doesn't stick out. The function is the same, but the aesthetics is off. If I want, I can move the entire rack base forward, it wouldn't be hard, but is it worth my time? Nahhhhhh.

Now it's time to clean up and put my toys away. It looks like rain is in the forecast.
I will paint the top deck and drawers once the weather warms a bit. Maybe add some drawer pull hardware, too. Also, I'll install my new Softopper once the weather improves.

One of the deck pieces of plywood has a bit of a warp on the back, center, sloping upward. I could invert and switch the pieces (as they have mirrored cut-out for bed contours,) but that might make a lump, which might catch things I try to slide. This way, I slide stuff in and it pushes down the warp. I have no idea if it will ever flatten out. I not only stapled and glued the drawers, but also added a few screws to the face of the larger drawer. I only stapled and glued the front of the short drawer. I think it'll be fine.

Boy, did I make a mess!
It is crazy how something that appears to look so simple, took so many tools and time.

Thank you everyone for your advice, encouragement, tolerance and patience!
​

 

[Jayhawk 29]

OKAY, ANOTHER PROJECT BEFORE YOU THINK YOU ARE GOING TO SIT DOWN IN YOUR RECLINER.

Instead of dealing with hardware handles you can also drill a hole in the drawer faces and use a line, what cowboys call rope and extend the length for the ability to open them without stretching further across the tailgate for a handle all the time. Use three strand stuff and do a simple knot in it on the inside and loop it on the outside by splicing it.
Look up on you tube "How to splice three stranded rope," You can do a modified version of the improved methods by just doubling back the entire line in and out of the twisted braid without doing all three lines as its normally done for docklines. .

I woujld post a video, but I think those are forbidden for some reason here. By the way, good job.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

4 ibuprofen and my recliner were in my repertoire, after cleaning up and putting away all my tools.

I did consider rope. I also considered just cutting a drop down opening along the top of the drawers and routing, sanding. OR the same but cutting oblong holes using a hole saw and the jigsaw. Either cutting job would have been easier done before placing the drawer fronts. Now that they're already build, I'd hate to try and mess them up.

I never know what kind of rope to use for a job. Here, it's clear you need 3 strand...but I'd like something soft...easy on the hand and will take/keep a knot, for the inside of the drawer.

The rope in the video is what looks to be the 1" version, which would be a good choice.
Also, how much should I need? -about 3 feet for each pull? That'll ensure I have what I need.

I have several marine supply stores near me, since I'm near the coast. They should have what I need or spend $6 and have it shipped to me.

I've now just watched a couple of these videos. I totally get it.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

That line looks like the rough stuff. Nylon three strand, no more than 1/2 should work. Samson braid is softer, but harder to braid for a novice. You can still just buy a pre-made regular dock line, which should have an eye in one end and then just deal with the other end to do a bowline in it for the hand grab end. They sometimes come in a ten foot length. That should do both, with the feature on one loop. Before you cut the nylon or samson braid line, tape the area on both sides tightly of the propose cut and then cut the middle.


Then make sure you burn the ends with one of the fire grill starters or if you have a stove with the stove top elements, sneak in in the middle of the night and turn them on high and then just lay the end across the hot elements for a bit. This seals the ends with a nice glued together strand. In the industry we also take a light line and whip the ends for a pretty finish. There are plenty videos on the simple task to do the bitter ends to last long term. Neither type of these lines will snag your hand skins or catch your professionally done fingernails.

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

I bought 7 feet of the stuff in the video. I figure prices will be at a premium at the local boating stores. I'd likely pay the same for online+shipping.

Again, the overthinking...not like I'm hauling in 100's of feet of rope as a dock worker. I'm pulling on it for a total of 3 seconds.

I have a very good mind's eye. Try to think stuff out, consider and SEE all things before going forward. Sometimes, to a fault that I get so overwhelmed with my thoughts and ideas, I never get off the ground. I was just looking at my build and realized, I should have attached the drawer alignment guides to the plywood FLOOR, a piece long enough to fit between and align with the front and rear legs of the rack stands VS attaching on the inside of the legs. That way would have looked a little nicer.

Yes, I do understand the burned ends, we used to do it for clothesline rope. I just did it for the ratchet strap webbing that holds down the aluminum bed racks. I melted a little spot before running the self tapping screw.

No nails. Not allowed for work and well, I'm more of a nail biter. (I know! It's terrible!) I have been since I've had teeth. It's probably why I love hot/spicy. My parents tried that method to deter me, when I was young.

 

[Glamper64]

Looks good Judy and practical...defiantly worth doing
That plywood should flatten out over time with leaving some weight on it. Since you've made it a permanent install you could always put a few screws into the plywood to hold it in place/flat.
Looks like you passed on the ladder shelf?
Could you please shorten that drawer, visually it just looks wrong
I wonder if some felt pads on drawer bottoms would help slide better under weight
I would skip the rope and install some big pulls or just cut out a u shaped hand/finger pull at top of drawer front.
The good quality grey paint should protect and match nicely with your truck...overall an 8.5 out of 10 good job

 

[JudyK-JAY22rb]

I know! The drawer irks me. I could fix it by not cutting the drawer. Just gotta slide the rack set-up forward 6". The only 'undo' that needs to happen is releasing the tension from the ratchet and the floor and racks can move forward. The hurdle if I do that; now that puts the bed tie downs further behind the back end of the racks, so I cant just simply run the strap over the back end of the racks to hold them down, because they'll be too far forward. Anchoring the rear of the racks is more of a problem b/c there are no center bed tie downs. In order to have something to toe to, I'd have to outfit my truck with the box link plates and tie down points. Not too much $$ on Amazon. They have the whole set; plates and anchors, as a set. That location would give me a proper point to run the strap over/under the racks, like it is now.

I did consider a screw into that warped plywood, but figured I'd give it a chance to settle. The whole thing can be easily removed. There's nothing attached to the truck with fasteners, only that single ratchet strap holding it down. OR, I might need a ladder, to get to my ladder.

I did pass on my ladder space, after my epic fail. It's fine. There's plenty of room for it on the top. Maybe rig something up, after the elevated cap is installed, to ensure easy reach and that it doesn't slide and fly all over the place back there.

As far as drawers sliding easier. I might try some plastic strips or felt strips. The short one is easier than the longer drawer but still, they move pretty easily.

I went to the grocery store the other night. I ran in and when I came out there was a lady in a truck parked next to me. As she was pulling out I dropped my tailgate, to put stuff in. She was now passing behind me to leave, stopped and said "I was just looking at your truck, saying how much I like it and now I see THAT!" as she points to the drawers. Then she asked "Did you make that?" I said "YUP! Just finished, today!" She said she loves it!

 

[JFlightRisk]

What you've accomplished so far is amazing. I'm impressed.

My truck had the box links already and bought a set for the DWs also. So far I've managed to get one on before it got really cold out. Amazon has a good price for the set compared to the dealers, but you do have to tap the threads out on the truck for the plate mounts. I have goth SAE and metric tap and die sets (used metric), but the screws seemed a very tiny bit loose after I tapped them out. Not sure if the screws are an odd size thread or not. I was very careful not to tighten them too much and strip them out. I'll check further when I get to the other three.

The cleats are too high up the box side to put down pressure on low things. Mostly good for holding side to side movement.

I did install D ring anchors on the sides of the BedSlide rails for down force on things like my lawnmower or a propane tank.

1/4 in. Cargo D-Ring Anchor, 2 Pack

 

[Jayhawk 29]

If your fasteners end up being a bit sloppy in the tapped out screw holes, you can buy some two part five minute epoxy and mix up a tiny bit of the blend. Use some cardboard for your working surface. Then as a novice in thickening agents, take some regular flour from the kitchen and upon mixing the two parts together, just mix in a small amount of the flour to create a thicker blend and reinstall the fasteners after putting the thickened blend on the threads. You do have to work a bit quick when doing this. This is actually better than most lock tight if its really sloppy. If the mix starts to kick, just forget it and try again with another batch.