Furrion A/C and Easy Start

TowPro

Senior Member
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Aug 1, 2012
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1,917
So the new rig has a 15K Furrion AC and I asked dealer about a easy start. he called Lippart who owns Furrion.


Lippart does not make a easy start for the Furrion AC and in fact if you install one you will void your warranty.


wow, but I expect that from anybody in the RV world.


So has anybody tried these devices that are combo easy start/surg suppressors you run the whole RV on?


an easy start is like $300, if I have to pay someone to install it $100, RV surge suppressor $100 = $500. Well the one I just read about was called softstartUP for $1200. that's not going to happen.
 
So the new rig has a 15K Furrion AC and I asked dealer about a easy start. he called Lippart who owns Furrion.


Lippart does not make a easy start for the Furrion AC and in fact if you install one you will void your warranty.


wow, but I expect that from anybody in the RV world.


So has anybody tried these devices that are combo easy start/surg suppressors you run the whole RV on?


an easy start is like $300, if I have to pay someone to install it $100, RV surge suppressor $100 = $500. Well the one I just read about was called softstartUP for $1200. that's not going to happen.


I hear the new SoftStartUp is nice, but is not as effective as the actual SoftStartRV that is hard installed into the A/C unit.

I installed one a few weeks ago. It was really very easy.
I have the Furrion 14,500. The diagram at the site was not 'quite' correct to my unit (this was not known until after I spoke with a technician live, on the phone.) After a couple of conversations, I/we worked it out.

Here's the thread.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7/installing-softstartrv-tomorrow-106502.html

My initial ascent up to the roof left me (sadly) confused, as far as identifying wires. My lack of knowledge about testing a wire for continuity was what I was missing (but I didn't know it at the time.) I did some 'study-up' and realized; that fat bundle of shrouded wires was not a problem IF I had a proper voltage meter. I went and bought one, so I could test for continuity. After that little educational hurdle, I went back up and did the job.

It's a long one, but you'll see toward page 3, I finally get to installing it, after taking the time to understand what I was looking at, after removing the A/C shroud.
 
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I would suggest that you take it on a few trips and see if you have any issues. The only time you really need a soft start is if you’re using a generator or solar. Plugged in shouldn’t be a problem. Take that money and invest in a good EMS, such as the Hughes Bulldog EMS. Not cheap, but mine just saved my RV when the park had some sort of an electrical problem 2 days ago. The voltage dropped enough to have the EMS shut off all power to my trailer.
 
I want to use it boondocking with the 2300w powerboost generator built into my f150
 
I would suggest that you take it on a few trips and see if you have any issues. The only time you really need a soft start is if you’re using a generator or solar. Plugged in shouldn’t be a problem. Take that money and invest in a good EMS, such as the Hughes Bulldog EMS. Not cheap, but mine just saved my RV when the park had some sort of an electrical problem 2 days ago. The voltage dropped enough to have the EMS shut off all power to my trailer.

I've done the testing on my unit.

14,500 with SoftStartRV installed inside A/C.

Predator 2000 gas generator.
Used adapters from 50 amp down to the 110 v
plugged into the 13.3 amp outlet of the Predator (one of the things I don't like about it. 15 or 20 would be better)
I wondered if the 13.3 would be too little.

A/C kicked, ran without a hiccup from the Predator.
Ran it for an hour.
 
I would suggest that you take it on a few trips and see if you have any issues. The only time you really need a soft start is if you’re using a generator or solar. Plugged in shouldn’t be a problem. Take that money and invest in a good EMS, such as the Hughes Bulldog EMS. Not cheap, but mine just saved my RV when the park had some sort of an electrical problem 2 days ago. The voltage dropped enough to have the EMS shut off all power to my trailer.

That's the model I bought.
I shopped for it though.
Found a nice, used unit for $$$ less than new.
It's a beast. I knew weight was gonna be an issue, so prepared with some really big zip ties.

This past trip hanging that thing from a pole connected via adapters down to 15a was exactly the weight issue I thought it would be. The security ring on the Watchdog helped.

I used one of the heavy duty zip ties run through the ring to anther anchor point at the pole. Worked perfectly to support the set-up.
 
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So the new rig has a 15K Furrion AC and I asked dealer about a easy start. he called Lippart who owns Furrion.


Lippart does not make a easy start for the Furrion AC and in fact if you install one you will void your warranty.


wow, but I expect that from anybody in the RV world.


So has anybody tried these devices that are combo easy start/surg suppressors you run the whole RV on?


an easy start is like $300, if I have to pay someone to install it $100, RV surge suppressor $100 = $500. Well the one I just read about was called softstartUP for $1200. that's not going to happen.

The beauty of the SoftStartRV is, if you have A/C issues you can simply remove the SoftStartRv out of the A/C. There's no cutting of wires, just moving. It's easy to put everything back into place as original. Handy if selling your unit. -You can take your SoftStart with you.
 
So the new rig has a 15K Furrion AC and I asked dealer about a easy start. he called Lippart who owns Furrion.


Lippart does not make a easy start for the Furrion AC and in fact if you install one you will void your warranty.


wow, but I expect that from anybody in the RV world.


So has anybody tried these devices that are combo easy start/surg suppressors you run the whole RV on?


an easy start is like $300, if I have to pay someone to install it $100, RV surge suppressor $100 = $500. Well the one I just read about was called softstartUP for $1200. that's not going to happen.

Amongst the other obvious tools yo'll need, the only tool I suggest you take with you on your install is a very long shank Phillips screwdriver. The placement of two screws that anchor the capacitor housing are deep and against a fan wall.

You have to remove the A/C shroud (8 screws) then approximately 4 screws that secure the capacitor housing inside the unit. Then, once that is free, 3 more screws to open the lid of the housing. It's all tucked in there. Just pull it out and start the install by following the diagram you print from the SoftStart site.

There's a cap on the top of the compressor. One tiny nut, to take off the cap and expose the wires on top, so you can check for continuity. Don't be like me and try to check for continuity by sticking the probe under the wire cap while attached to the capacitor. You must take the wire off THEN test. They are all connected with blade connectors...easy on/off. There are multiple wires of the same color running from the top of the compressor to the capacitor, but they are all sheathed together and the reason why you'll need the meter to check for continuity, as you can't simply follow them with your eye, like you see on some install videos (most times Coleman models.)

I made several copies of the diagram, just in case one blew away. :) Bring your cell phone with you. Have the website available (you can request a help ticket online) just in case you need to make a call to them. Furrion models have been known to change up their wiring configurations, as told to me by the man who knows Furrion inside and out. As stated by the person I spoke to at SoftStartRV, when my SoftStart wouldn't kick the compressor, despite having it installed per the diagram.

This guy was an expert. He dealt with Furrion in Japan, then was asked to run their factory in Mexico.
 
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I've done the testing on my unit.

14,500 with SoftStartRV installed inside A/C.

Predator 2000 gas generator.
Used adapters from 50 amp down to the 110 v
plugged into the 13.3 amp outlet of the Predator (one of the things I don't like about it. 15 or 20 would be better)
I wondered if the 13.3 would be too little.

A/C kicked, ran without a hiccup from the Predator.
Ran it for an hour.


the outlet is marked 13.3 because that is all the current the generator will produce.

it produces 1600w continues. so Watts = current in amps Times volts.
we know the Watts number and and we know volts=120
1600w divided by 120v = 13.33 amps.


and it will peak at 2000w
2000w divided by 120v = 16.6 amps.


in the add they show "Duplex 20a outlets" :)
 
the outlet is marked 13.3 because that is all the current the generator will produce.

it produces 1600w continues. so Watts = current in amps Times volts.
we know the Watts number and and we know volts=120
1600w divided by 120v = 13.33 amps.


and it will peak at 2000w
2000w divided by 120v = 16.6 amps.


in the add they show "Duplex 20a outlets" :)

How is it a similar but ever so slightly larger, small generator like this Champion be 2000w (peak) 1700w running and have 20 amp outlets :confused:
 

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