Greyhawk 31b Questions

[joe66]

Hello. My wife and I just purchased a 2020 Greyhawk 31B, which we’re really enjoying. However we’re discovering a few issues that need to be resolved, and being this is our first RV, would truly appreciate any advice anyone can provide.

First issue involves the black tank. Yes, I have learned a very important lesson in buying a used RV - always check the tank readings and, I’m assuming, insist on dumping the tanks so they show empty before closing the deal (the only excuse I have is that, to check out the RV, we drove from FL to NC on the day that horrible storm hit a month or so ago, which turned a six hour drive into something like twelve, etc, etc.).

Looks like I’ve got a compacted tank. I’ve back flushed, and top flushed, and used enough enzymes to chew through a small town’s daily production - and still the problem persists. I’m fortunate enough to be hitched a friend’s house, and I’ve got my line tied into the 3” clean-out port for their septic tank. I only open the valve to dump - and a decent amount of liquid comes out. But still seems like I can see pooled liquid below the toilet, and the LEDs never read below 1/2. Any thoughts on what to do?

Second question is regarding water heater. Propane works, electric doesn’t. The breaker looks good, and since the propane side still requires electric for sensing, control & ignition, I’m assuming power to the WH is not the issue. My guess would be a burned out heating element. The question is where is it? Definitely not seeing it inside the access hatch from the outside. I’m guessing it’s going to be via the panel under the fridge (still moving in - gotta move some debris to get to that). Is that correct? Any advice on testing / replacement? I’m assuming it’s going to be similar to a home WH. Test for continuity. Open means burned out. Unscrew, pull & replace?

Any help with either of these issues would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dvspl]

I’ve back flushed, and top flushed, and used enough enzymes to chew through a small town’s daily production - and still the problem persists. I’m fortunate enough to be hitched a friend’s house, and I’ve got my line tied into the 3” clean-out port for their septic tank. I only open the valve to dump - and a decent amount of liquid comes out. But still seems like I can see pooled liquid below the toilet, and the LEDs never read below 1/2. Any thoughts on what to do?

There will always be some liquid left in the black tank, but it should be a small amount. You may not be seeing as much through the toilet as you think. My guess is that it's emptying fine but the sensors are inaccurate. Very common problem! If you search the forum for "black tank sensor" you'll find lots of advice for cleaning or replacing them. Many people who have this problem just live with it and drain/flush the black tank when they can see it's full.

Second question is regarding water heater. Propane works, electric doesn’t. The breaker looks good, and since the propane side still requires electric for sensing, control & ignition, I’m assuming power to the WH is not the issue. My guess would be a burned out heating element. The question is where is it? Definitely not seeing it inside the access hatch from the outside. I’m guessing it’s going to be via the panel under the fridge (still moving in - gotta move some debris to get to that). Is that correct? Any advice on testing / replacement? I’m assuming it’s going to be similar to a home WH. Test for continuity. Open means burned out. Unscrew, pull & replace?

The propane side of the water heater uses 12V power which it gets from your 12V fuse panel. The electric side uses 110 VAC power which it gets from a separate circuit breaker on the AC panel. Check there for a C/B. If you have an EMS, it could also be shedding the water heater because your shore power connection isn't providing enough amps. But burned out elements are also very common. It's probably on the back side, as you've already figured out. If you post the specific model number, there are some very good water heater gurus on here that will help.

Also, ask Jayco to send you the electrical schematics for your rig. They will come in handy for tracing wires/issues. They'll want your VIN. Here's a link:https://www.jayco.com/owners/owners-support/

 

[joe66]

Thank you so much for the info. Again, greatly appreciated!

 

[CAG-JAY]

Hello. My wife and I just purchased a 2020 Greyhawk 31B, which we’re really enjoying. However we’re discovering a few issues that need to be resolved, and being this is our first RV, would truly appreciate any advice anyone can provide.

First issue involves the black tank. Yes, I have learned a very important lesson in buying a used RV - always check the tank readings and, I’m assuming, insist on dumping the tanks so they show empty before closing the deal (the only excuse I have is that, to check out the RV, we drove from FL to NC on the day that horrible storm hit a month or so ago, which turned a six hour drive into something like twelve, etc, etc.).

Looks like I’ve got a compacted tank. I’ve back flushed, and top flushed, and used enough enzymes to chew through a small town’s daily production - and still the problem persists. I’m fortunate enough to be hitched a friend’s house, and I’ve got my line tied into the 3” clean-out port for their septic tank. I only open the valve to dump - and a decent amount of liquid comes out. But still seems like I can see pooled liquid below the toilet, and the LEDs never read below 1/2. Any thoughts on what to do?

Second question is regarding water heater. Propane works, electric doesn’t. The breaker looks good, and since the propane side still requires electric for sensing, control & ignition, I’m assuming power to the WH is not the issue. My guess would be a burned out heating element. The question is where is it? Definitely not seeing it inside the access hatch from the outside. I’m guessing it’s going to be via the panel under the fridge (still moving in - gotta move some debris to get to that). Is that correct? Any advice on testing / replacement? I’m assuming it’s going to be similar to a home WH. Test for continuity. Open means burned out. Unscrew, pull & replace?

Any help with either of these issues would be greatly appreciated.

Two suggestions for the black tank. There are wands made that can be attached to a garden hose and put down the toilet to break up a clog and clean the tank. (I made my own with 1/2inch Pex line, a shutoff valve with a hose connection. It works great for that issue.

The second suggestion is a professional to come clean the tank. They are out there and most are reasonable.


As the water heater. If all fuses/breakers check out it is likely the heating element. It only takes a couple of seconds of being turned on in an empty tank to burn it out.



Use Google on both topics to get some in-depth solutions. They are available with YouTube videos.

 

[JimD]

Use a flashlight to view the bottom of the tank and see if there is the dreaded poop pyramid. You may be able to break it up with a long dowel.

Another thought is to use a pressure washer down the toilet drain. I would use an electric one rather than gas as the gas versions are very powerful. Use a fan tip and wrap the wand in a rag to seal it in the toilet opening. There are angle heads that would allow you to aim the wand at the sides to maybe clean the sensors.

Many of us have installed the SeeLevel sensor system which mounts the sensors on the outside of the tank which totally eliminates the dirty sensor problem.