Help removing GoPower solar panel bolts on 195RB?

[Vermillion]

I bought a second solar panel to add to the factory rooftop GoPower solar panel on our 2022 195RB. I just want more recharging capacity.

But I'm stumped by how to remove the four bolts and nuts mounting the existing 100-watt solar panel to the rooftop mounting brackets. I need to get it off temporarily so I can add a Y-connection to add the new panel to the wiring. But the four bolts that physically mount the existing panel are in such a constricted location under the panel that I haven't figured out how to get wrenches on them.

The aluminum edges of the panel are only about an inch off the rooftop. The bolts are behind the mounting brackets. There's no room for a socket wrench, or even a socket. My hands can't fit in there. It looks like I need a ratcheting box-end wrench with a handle that turns 90 degrees sideways to turn the nut, and, for the bolt head, a box-end wrench with a handle that turns 90 degrees sideways, then extends up about 3/4 of an inch, then turns 90 degrees again back toward me. I haven't seen anything like that online.

Has anyone here been able to remove and/or replace those four bolts?

 

[Jayhawk 29]

I am surprised that the two wires leading off of the current panel are not long enough that they will stick outside from panel, letting you hook up without lifting it up. If you see some slack, can you take a yard stick or something flat and stick it under the sides and pull the wires out? The wires , if installed from the factory much have a gland mounted on the roof that is plugged in now. I can't recall seeing a gland mounted under a solar panel. There are Y connectors just for attaching multiple panels, and then the single wire just plugs into the gland.

But you may be hard pressed to refasten the panel back down securely if you got the nuts free. The heads on the hidden sides needs to be held while tightening them up. If the wires are too short, its easy to remove the dicor, which is normally used to bed the main brackets to the roof down from the heads fastened to the roof and slightly lift up. Then just recaulk back down.

Do you see this type fitting for the wires on current panel?

https://www.amazon.com/Slocable-Weatherproof-Resistance-Housing-Project/dp/B0B58KDHCH?pd_rd_w=1QKNu&content-id=amzn1.sym.c059d191-c5ca-4dcf-9149-1b498928668e&pf_rd_p=c059d191-c5ca-4dcf-9149-1b498928668e&pf_rd_r=Z1M7BJPW5X1RAH58Z7KD&pd_rd_wg=ztUeK&pd_rd_r=0cbdaf07-d43a-42a3-8eb4-58f9490603d6&pd_rd_i=B0B58KDHCH&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_pd_hp_d_atf_rp_4_t

 

[Vermillion]

Yes, the gland in the roof is similar to the one you linked. But it is dead center under the solar panel. I doubt it is possible to disconnect or reconnect the plugs under there, since there's only about an inch of clearance and the connectors are 14 inches back in.

I bought a Y-connector when I bought the new panel.

You're probably correct that the panel was bolted to the mounting feet before the feet were screwed into the roof. I really hesitate to rip up the weather sealing instead of finding a way to loosen the four bolts I can see. I'll have to wrap my head around that.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

I have attempted to work around not removing the mounting brackets when cleaning and treating my roofs over the years to no success. I guess my thinking was to the extreme. But I also want to know that the panels are secure when traveling at 60 mph down the highway. So sometimes its a necessity to go to the extreme , of sorts. I am surprised to hear that the gland is under the panel.

 

[Vermillion]

The trailer came from the factory with the panel already installed.

 

[Jayhawk 29]

The only other option if you can just loosen the current nuts to the point of getting them off, is to purchase a new set of mounting brackets and install them on the panel in a different location after you remove the panel and then reinstall the panel with the new setup mounted securely to the panel, leaving the other ones in place. Of course bed the brackets after drying fitting them with a small bit to generate new holes, aligned with the brackets and then run in the new fasteners into the roof. That would be my only alternative suggestion.