How do you Level your PUP / Chock Tires?

Mpking

Advanced Member
Joined
May 15, 2014
Posts
59
Location
Raynham
So I've very new to this.

So when I pull into a camp site, and it's not level, how do you level the camper.

I've gotten the idea from reading the forums that you place boards and drive the Trailer wheels up the boards to level it off.

Someone mentioned Lynx (lego like things). How many boards do you pack?

I also assume you have to chock the wheels. Mine's a single axle, do you chock both sides? If you've used boards to level, is it even possible to chock that wheel?

My camper also came with a wheel that goes into the Jack. When would you use this? (Right now I have mine resting directly on a board so it doesn't sink into my asphalt driveway.
 
Check out the "BAL" Leveler. We used one on our popup all the time. They work very nicely.

BAL R.V. Products Group 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler

Good luck
Steve
 
For the wheel that goes in the jack, I use a Reese Towpower Dock Chock, or something like that. Works perfect and is cheap.

I use the lynx leveler blocks. I like them because a set of 10 is compact. I don't have room for boards, although boards work just fine. I don't think I've ever had to raise the camper more than 3" but that all depends on where you camp.

I don't chock the wheels that are raised because you can't with the lynx blocks. With a longer board you could. On the non-raised side I use a homemade chock that I found here: http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=55599.0 which works great. Note that I didn't bother with the dado cut, I just used extra screws at the joints and they work fine.

Avoid the cheap lightweight plastic chocks as they are useless. If you want regular wheel chocks solid rubber kind you can buy for around $8 at Harbor Freight are good. But the above homemade wheel chock works best at stopping camper motion.

John
 
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I mounted a level aligned to the frame next to where my tent door is located. I will only chock one wheel on both sides and adjust the tongue end-to-end height until I get level at the popup door. Then I will adjust the four stabilizer jacks to keep the trailer stable when moving around inside the trailer. I usually put 2X8 boards on the ground under the stabilizer jacks and tongue jack.

I always like to tilt the roof just a tab to the back side of the trailer roof so that any run-off from the roof mounted air conditioner will run to the back side of the trailer instead of the awning side which would put water under the awning on the ground.

My trailer has to be almost perfect level end-to-end to allow my POPUP door to open without dragging.

A small amount of being off level with the side-to-side is not noticeable to us inside the trailer.

Roy Ken
 
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For the wheel that goes in the jack, I use a Reese Towpower Dock Chock, or something like that. Works perfect and is cheap.

I use the lynx leveler blocks. I like them because a set of 10 is compact. I don't have room for boards, although boards work just fine. I don't think I've ever had to raise the camper more than 3" but that all depends on where you camp.

I don't chock the wheels that are raised because you can't with the lynx blocks. With a longer board you could. On the non-raised side I use a homemade chock that I found here: http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=55599.0 which works great. Note that I didn't bother with the dado cut, I just used extra screws at the joints and they work fine.

Avoid the cheap lightweight plastic chocks as they are useless. If you want regular wheel chocks solid rubber kind you can buy for around $8 at Harbor Freight are good. But the above homemade wheel chock works best at stopping camper motion.

John

Have used the "cheap lightweights plastic blocks" for years with no problem as have many others.
 
The BAL leveler is pretty cool. I have thought about buying one for my brother.

As for the nose wheel. Personally, I would leave it off unless you expect to roll the pup around. I place our nose jack on a 2 x 8 with a sheet of copper nailed to the location that I place the jack. This keeps the wood from getting smashed in. It really makes the trailer more stable too.

Roy has a good point about putting a stabilizer under the trailer frame at the door. My brother has an old car scissors jack that he uses, it works great.
 
That's pretty cool. That might be my investment for leveling. Seems the same price as the Lynx.
 
The BAL leveler is pretty cool. I have thought about buying one for my brother.



As for the nose wheel. Personally, I would leave it off unless you expect to roll the pup around. I place our nose jack on a 2 x 8 with a sheet of copper nailed to the location that I place the jack. This keeps the wood from getting smashed in. It really makes the trailer more stable too.



Roy has a good point about putting a stabilizer under the trailer frame at the door. My brother has an old car scissors jack that he uses, it works great.


2x about the nose wheel. I bring a patio stone with me to throw on the ground for the nose
 

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