I cut a big hole in my roof...

Mike77

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Posts
339
Today I installed a MaxxFan Deluxe 7000K (17 lbs.) in our Whitehawk. It's powerful, quiet, and fully featured. I love the ten speeds, remote, thermostat, low profile and auto closing feature. The white lid lets in some light when closed, but not too much, which is great for me, as there's a skylight just a few inches away from the fan.

Like most folks, I was nervous about cutting a hole in my roof (the install went where there was no previous fan), but it went well. I used the butyl tape from a Camco installation kit but the fan came with its own hardware, so I didn't need to use the Camco screws. Here's my photo album of the install: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/members/39737-albums1389.html

While I did have to run power to the installation location, it was already framed for an EZ Breeze optional fan that I decided not to order when I bought the coach. I wanted the quiet, power and quality of a MaxxAir and I also wanted a remote. This coach definitely will benefit from having a fan at mid-cabin. Not only will it increase boondocking comfort, it will also help vent out cooking heat and speed up AC cooldown on really hot days.

In a way, cutting a new hole was easier than replacing an old vent or fan - at least I didn't have to scrape off old butyl tape and lap sealant...
 

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Nice work. We are thinking about putting one of these fans into the bedroom. Just have not worked up the courage to cut the hole yet. You said it was already framed for another fan. How did you find out the location of the framing?
 
Nice work. We are thinking about putting one of these fans into the bedroom. Just have not worked up the courage to cut the hole yet. You said it was already framed for another fan. How did you find out the location of the framing?

Thanks. Luckily, the pictures of my coach (28DSBH) at Jayco.com showed exactly where the optional fan was. And Jayco customer service provided me with roof schematics that confirmed the framing was in place even if the fan wasn't ordered. They also told me not to expect pre-wired power at the install location, so I knew what to expect before cutting open the ceiling.
 
Nice work. We are thinking about putting one of these fans into the bedroom. Just have not worked up the courage to cut the hole yet. You said it was already framed for another fan. How did you find out the location of the framing?
If you contact Jayco customer service with your VIN they will send you the plans for your roof. That is what the OP did from his other posts.

This will give you the measurements and you can cut a smaller hole to figure out exactly where the framing is. The biggest problem is power. You can pull power from a nearby light. However on my camper the main cabin lights are switched near the door. While I could leave them on and power them off individually it would be nice to not have the fan on this switched circuit.

The OP mentioned, I think I'm good other thread, that he was able to pull power from the circuit that powers the vent above the stove. Since this isn't switched it would work out great. Maybe that is where they pull on if the optional fan was installed at the factory.

I am considering this as well. It would be nice to have more ventilation to extend the period of not needing AC.



Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
I took a look at your album. How hard was it fishing a wires from the fan location to the switch location? It appears that is where you pulled your power from.
 
I took a look at your album. How hard was it fishing a wires from the fan location to the switch location? It appears that is where you pulled your power from.

It was very easy. I just ran a fish tape into the rough hole that Jayco made in the cabinet ceiling and pushed it towards the larger hole that I cut for the fan at mid-cabin. It was a straight shot, no obstructions at all (other than fiberglass insulation, which moves easily out of the way), and only about a 4' run from the fan to the cabinet. In the attached photo you can see how close the fan is to the cabinet...
 

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It was very easy. I just ran a fish tape into the rough hole that Jayco made in the cabinet ceiling and pushed it towards the larger hole that I cut for the fan at mid-cabin. It was a straight shot, no obstructions at all (other than fiberglass insulation, which moves easily out of the way), and only about a 4' run from the fan to the cabinet. In the attached photo you can see how close the fan is to the cabinet...

I see what you are saying. I don't have the roof plans for mine yet but I think where they roughed it in the opening will be further to the back of the camper so I might have more obstructions. Not set on doing this addition but your photos and info sure help me see what I am getting myself into if I do end up doing it. It doesn't appear too bad. For now I think I will see how hot things get with existing ventilation as I have a bunch of other things I need before this.

I was already thinking about opening up that panel anyhow. I would like to add a dedicated switch for the step light so I can control it separately from the awning LED strip. It seems harder than it should be to find a triple switch in black. I have found them in white. Maybe I will just pick up a single then move the interior lights over to the single switch and use the existing double for the outside lights.

Thanks for posting the photos and info.
 
It was very easy. I just ran a fish tape into the rough hole that Jayco made in the cabinet ceiling and pushed it towards the larger hole that I cut for the fan at mid-cabin. It was a straight shot, no obstructions at all (other than fiberglass insulation, which moves easily out of the way), and only about a 4' run from the fan to the cabinet. In the attached photo you can see how close the fan is to the cabinet...

And Sennister, to be clear, I didn't grab power from the main cabin lights, but from the 15 amp line that runs to an undermount puck light, my water pump and my range vent fan and light. It just so happens that all of that wiring drops down behind the main monitoring and switch panel. I just traced the one white, one green wire that came out of the ceiling and ran down the side of the cabinet and then under the cabinet's false floor to the under mount light. Before buttoning the cabinet back up, I pulled the 15 amp kitchen fuse from the fuse panel to make sure the fan stopped/was wired to the right circuit (it did/was). See circuit #4 in this picture. Before the install that circuit only had the following draw on it: water pump (4 amps) + range hood fan and light (3 amps) + one LED undermount puck light (1 amp). The MaxxFan draws just over 4 amps at its highest setting, so that's only 12 amps on the circuit - I'll never blow that fuse.
 

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And Sennister, to be clear, I didn't grab power from the main cabin lights, but from the 15 amp line that runs to an undermount puck light, my water pump and my range vent fan and light. It just so happens that all of that wiring drops down behind the main monitoring and switch panel. I just traced the one white, one green wire that came out of the ceiling and ran down the side of the cabinet and then under the cabinet's false floor to the under mount light. Before buttoning the cabinet back up, I pulled the 15 amp kitchen fuse from the fuse panel to make sure the fan stopped/was wired to the right circuit (it did/was). See circuit #4 in this picture. Before the install that circuit only had the following draw on it: water pump (4 amps) + range hood fan and light (3 amps) + one LED undermount puck light (1 amp). The MaxxFan draws just over 4 amps at its highest setting, so that's only 12 amps on the circuit - I'll never blow that fuse.

Yeah I knew that. I think we were talking about this a month or so ago. That you could have likely just tapped into the power from the cabin light which is very close to where you were installing the fan. However the problem is that your camper, like mine, has a main switch for the cabin lights meaning in order for the fan to have power, the lights would have to be on or at least the switch and then shut off each light individually if you didn't want them actually on which would suck. We were kind of hoping that they ran the fans (bath and opt living room) together so there was a wire up there but I kind of figured that was unlikely.

I only went off subject that I was thinking about opening up the back of that panel in the cabinet to make some unrelated switch changes and while doing that I could scope out power options there. Even if I didn't have the stove fan circuit there (which I probably do), I could likely pull power from the cabin lights or another circuit there if I tapped in before the switch. With all the lights being LED it isn't like there is much load on them and that cabin light circuit only has 6 lights on it. Like I said though, I have a few other projects ahead in line of this one. I want to add the Progressive Surge Protector, get rid of the mouse hole power cord storage and go to twist lock and seal that up. Need to add an A Frame shelf to store our generator. After all that I might look at the fan upgrade. It doesn't look too bad of a job and you did it the way I would have. Cut a small hole inside to then verify the location. Expand it out to the framed opening size once I confirm it matches the fan I am installing. Drill pilot holes up through the roof in the corners. Cut the roof membrane in the X shape and then cut out roof plywood and then do the install. Really the power location was going to be the big mystery.

What did you use to cut your holes? Looks like hole saw for the initial then did you use a jig saw or sawzall for the Luan and roof? I have both but they might be overkill for the Luan.
 
Yeah I knew that. I think we were talking about this a month or so ago. That you could have likely just tapped into the power from the cabin light which is very close to where you were installing the fan. However the problem is that your camper, like mine, has a main switch for the cabin lights meaning in order for the fan to have power, the lights would have to be on or at least the switch and then shut off each light individually if you didn't want them actually on which would suck. We were kind of hoping that they ran the fans (bath and opt living room) together so there was a wire up there but I kind of figured that was unlikely.

I only went off subject that I was thinking about opening up the back of that panel in the cabinet to make some unrelated switch changes and while doing that I could scope out power options there. Even if I didn't have the stove fan circuit there (which I probably do), I could likely pull power from the cabin lights or another circuit there if I tapped in before the switch. With all the lights being LED it isn't like there is much load on them and that cabin light circuit only has 6 lights on it. Like I said though, I have a few other projects ahead in line of this one. I want to add the Progressive Surge Protector, get rid of the mouse hole power cord storage and go to twist lock and seal that up. Need to add an A Frame shelf to store our generator. After all that I might look at the fan upgrade. It doesn't look too bad of a job and you did it the way I would have. Cut a small hole inside to then verify the location. Expand it out to the framed opening size once I confirm it matches the fan I am installing. Drill pilot holes up through the roof in the corners. Cut the roof membrane in the X shape and then cut out roof plywood and then do the install. Really the power location was going to be the big mystery.

What did you use to cut your holes? Looks like hole saw for the initial then did you use a jig saw or sawzall for the Luan and roof? I have both but they might be overkill for the Luan.

We did chat about it...just wasn't sure if I made clear what I actually did at install time or caused confusion instead. Glad it was clear.

You guessed correctly on tools, hole saw, then jig saw. Good luck with all of your mods, share if you can when each is completed.
 
Wow, great job! Looks good. How long did it take? I would not do it myself, but just would like to have an idea how much to expect in terms of a potential quote.
 
Wow, great job! Looks good. How long did it take? I would not do it myself, but just would like to have an idea how much to expect in terms of a potential quote.

Thanks. It took me about 2.5 hours, to include cleanup. I wasn't rushing...
 
Great job!

Wow- Great job and thanks for the details. I'll put this on my long list of wanted upgrades. I never would have tackled something like this without your information.
 

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