Insulation in the Underbelly?

rkymntsno

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2019
Posts
1,088
Hello all. I was wondering, any of you that have removed the corrugated plastic that is called the underbelly on our Eagle fifth wheels, is there actually any batt insulation laying on top of the underbelly? I realized after our last trip, part of the underbelly dropped down as a couple of the screws either fell out or ripped out of their screws and I didn't see any insulation. I just realized it now, but the 5'er is at the dealer getting warranty work done. They're supposed to close up the underbelly for me but now I'm wondering if there's supposed to be insulation that should have been showing in the openings??????
 
I pulled the corroplast down to string a network cable up behind the tv to the one control router/switch.... Anyway the sum total on top of the corroplast was two soaking wet fiberglass batts on the underside of the fresh water tank. Now above that there is the woven polytarp material with a thin layer of fiberglass above that... Like maybe 1 inch.
When I had mine down I used a whole bundle of R20 batts and below that I put reflectix as a barrier and then the corroplast. I gorilla taped edges of corroplast to frame and sealed all holes. I figured the water got on the wet batts under water tank from the eades of corroplast or thru the wire access holds in frame. Trailer is warmer with fireplace or furnace and A/C holds temp better.
Just stringing another wire under there today and insulation is dry.
Yes it was a bunch of work and a small cost. Under $100.00 but it was worth it to us.
I also removed from closet shelf in nose... It got a bundle of fiberglass stuffed in there too! Closet doesn't get hot from sun or cold when in cool temps

YMMV
RoadrunnerII
 
I pulled the corroplast down to string a network cable up behind the tv to the one control router/switch.... Anyway the sum total on top of the corroplast was two soaking wet fiberglass batts on the underside of the fresh water tank. Now above that there is the woven polytarp material with a thin layer of fiberglass above that... Like maybe 1 inch.
When I had mine down I used a whole bundle of R20 batts and below that I put reflectix as a barrier and then the corroplast. I gorilla taped edges of corroplast to frame and sealed all holes. I figured the water got on the wet batts under water tank from the eades of corroplast or thru the wire access holds in frame. Trailer is warmer with fireplace or furnace and A/C holds temp better.
Just stringing another wire under there today and insulation is dry.
Yes it was a bunch of work and a small cost. Under $100.00 but it was worth it to us.
I also removed from closet shelf in nose... It got a bundle of fiberglass stuffed in there too! Closet doesn't get hot from sun or cold when in cool temps

YMMV
RoadrunnerII



How hard was it to take this corroplast down... how long did it take you? I really want to add insulation and inspect my new 5th wheel and do exactly what you did, this spring. Where do i find this insulation?

Thank you sir...
 
How hard was it to take this corroplast down... how long did it take you? I really want to add insulation and inspect my new 5th wheel and do exactly what you did, this spring. Where do i find this insulation?



Thank you sir...
Camperdude
It was pretty easy to drop. Mine was held up with self taping hex head screws. A row across the back, down each side a couple on each cross member. Had to drop the spare tire. There are mounting tabs welded to frame so the corroplast fits in between. You flex the corroplast down in the middle to release it. It meant being careful of propane lines and electric brake wires. I had run wires for backup lights as well.
I used the reflectix to hold the batts up while I reinstalled the corroplast by using gorilla tape to cross members that hold tanks in place. I bundled up all the wiring under the trailer. It was just hanging looped thru cross members. It took me a few days to complete but I am retired and working above kills my shoulders.
Really happy how the extra insulation helped with heating and cooling.

RoadrunnerII
 
Camperdude
It was pretty easy to drop. Mine was held up with self taping hex head screws. A row across the back, down each side a couple on each cross member. Had to drop the spare tire. There are mounting tabs welded to frame so the corroplast fits in between. You flex the corroplast down in the middle to release it. It meant being careful of propane lines and electric brake wires. I had run wires for backup lights as well.
I used the reflectix to hold the batts up while I reinstalled the corroplast by using gorilla tape to cross members that hold tanks in place. I bundled up all the wiring under the trailer. It was just hanging looped thru cross members. It took me a few days to complete but I am retired and working above kills my shoulders.
Really happy how the extra insulation helped with heating and cooling.

RoadrunnerII



Thank you Roadrunnerll! What are you referring to with "batts" and reflectix? Like you I want reverses lights and absolutely need to organize the nest of chaos in the underbelly.
 
Fiberglass batt insulation
Reflectix is a foil covered plastic bubble wrap insulation. Both comes in different wides at big box lumber stores.. Lowes, menards, home depot. I used R20 batts for ceiling use in a house, so they where about 24 inches wide 4 feet long by about 6 inches thick. They fit lengthwise 3 wide between frame beams. The reflectix I used was 4 feet wide so put it in and used aluminum tape to join them. So basically a continuous piece from basement to rear of trailer. For rear backup lights bought cheap halogen lights mounted on rear bumper under mounting flanges. Ran wire up to the 7 pin embilical. Centre pin is for backup lights usually yellow or white wire. It was just terminated up at king pin bundle. Worse part was fishing the wire from front compartment to king pin.

RoadrunnerII
 

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