Leveling newb

[JosephwithaJayco]

I recently got my first camper. 29ft jayco 265bn slx. I am starting the daunting task of accumulating all my essentials. I bought some Anderson jack stand pads and a pad for the power jack.

My question is

Do I want to level with the wheels first, then use the stands just for stability?

I've seen videos of self levelers bringing the trailer high enough that the wheels are suspended....

Do I need to wedge style levelers in addition to the jack pads?

 

[Taftcoach]

Side to side level is accomplished by driving the low side tires onto boards, blocks, etc. Chock the tires then front to back leveling happens with your jack.

The stabilizers are used to stabilize the trailer, not level it.

I use Lynx blocks and levels on the front and side of the trailer. I periodically will spot check my level with longer 4' level to make certain the cheap stick on levels are still accurate.

 

[Velz]

[QUOTE =I use Lynx blocks and levels on the front and side of the trailer. I periodically will spot check my level with longer 4' level to make certain the cheap stick on levels are still accurate.[/QUOTE]


Or drop a cue ball or similar (I use an old trackball) from an inch or so onto the floor and see which way it rolls. The entire trailer becomes the level. When the ball stops rolling ...

 

[RogerR]

I use an Andersen leveler for my single axle trailer but some use 2 for double axle trailers. Looks like a giant comma that you roll forward or backward until RV is level. Very simple and easy to use.

Stabilizers are just to take some of the rocking motion out. Thin metal underbody might bend if you use them to lift the RV.

 

[Jaykol]

No one mentioned it yet but after using whatever means to level side to side, the front jack is used to level front to back, then the stabilizers stabilize. If it is just a touch angled to one side, I stabilize the lower side first but not sure it does much. Use a battery drill with a 3/4" socket to make quick work of the stabilizers.

 

[LuckyDuck]

Like RogerR, I use a pair of Andersen levelers. I started with the “Lego blocks” but the Andersen is infinitely more precise and simpler. If your trailer is like most, you’ll get different level measurements in different places. The kitchen countertop is not exactly the same as the floor or the front A-frame or the dinette table. I find what puts my fridge at perfectly level and then see what else matches. I found a spot on my A-frame is the same, so I use a level on that. Fridge level is critical, so key on that. As mentioned, the stab jacks are just to stabilize once you’re level. And keep in mind, they tend to loosen, so recheck and snug them a day later or so.

 

[RoadieWingZ]

If you use a drill on the stabilizer jacks as many of us do, be sure to set it on a low ratchet setting. You want them snug, but not over tightened. Some of us old school guys still like to do a final check with the hand crank so they’re consistent in tightness.

 

[RoadieWingZ]

Also….. some of old school guys dabble with new fangled technology and these Beech Lane wireless level indicators are the bees knees for quick leveling. The side-to-side level indicator works great in the cab of my truck when I’m backing onto the curved levelers and the front to back indicator while I’m raising/lowering the tongue for front-to-back levels

https://a.co/d/fWhT3iJ

 

[PNWtraveler89]

I bought 2 sets of Beech lane leveler blocks. They are identical to the Anderson ones but are cheaper by a few bucks. For my jacks and power jack i just built some out of wood i had laying around. Also I'd recommend getting a set of wheel chocks that go in between the tires to keep the trailer from moving from to back. I Have a set of harbor freight ones that work great!