My 28BHBE Mods So Far

Camper_bob

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Posts
7,660
Location
South Texas
Nothing terribly big, but these are a couple of the mods I've done so far to make life a little easier.

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Hose gasket on the drain plug so we don't have to take the sink apart when DW drops her ring down the trap.

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Command hooks and small bungee cords to keep our junk in place during transit.

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Bamboo cutting board for stovetop. I don't like the size (DW likes) but the feet work GREAT.

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Retainer clip for blinds, still don't understand why this wasn't installed at factory.

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LED replacement for the halogen G4s over the sink.

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My favorite mod, courtesy light for the control center. Magnetic switch turns the LED on when the door opens, no more switching by Brail.

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Fold up step saver. Had to cut some out and JBWeld the pieces back together because it was too tall. Works pretty good like this.

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Trash can mod to protect the jack head and umbilical from the elements.

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Block for under the foot of the tongue jack.
 
A lot of really great mods! I particularly like the control center light and the step support. Well done!

My "mods to do" list just keeps getting longer, and longer, and longer . . . :lightbulb:
 
What did you use for the step saver? I was about to weld one up but..... I like the idea of it being permanently mounted under the step.
 
What did you use for the step saver? I was about to weld one up but..... I like the idea of it being permanently mounted under the step.


This is the official name: Camco 43671 Self-Stor Step

I'm on my iPad right now (tapatalk), so I can't insert a link, or don't know how...

The way it came, it was too tall to actually be useful for me. I actually got it at a PPL tent sale in Houston for $8, so I didn't feel too bad about hacking it up. The part that screws to the step is attached to a hinged piece of threaded rod about 1/2 in dia. The foot is attached to a hollow steel tube with a nut welded on the top and a foot on the bottom. The nut screws onto the threaded rod which also creates the adjustability. I just unscrewed it all the way off, cut about 1" off the threaded rod, cut about the same out of the body of the tube, JB welded the tube pieces back together and hose clamped a PVC "sleeve" around the joint. It would have been easier to really weld it, but I don't know how to weld or have access to a welder, so I made it work...
 
Where did you find the light and switch for the command center?

Magnetic switch and courtesy light in control panel......if you don't mind, where did you get them....definitely like this idea.

Here's the magnetic micro switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUEZY/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the light:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUWH3PY/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The control panel is thin flexible Kydex and easy to remove, 4 screws and it pops out. If you turn it 90* and wedge it back into the opening, it will lodge itself there allowing you to work with the wires on the back without the panel hanging by the wires. (It goes without saying that you should remove all sources of power from the coach before beginning this process; disconnect the battery, the TV and the shore power).

I used the 12V socket below my control center for power and ground and wired the magnetic microswitch to the ground side of the circuit. I had to kind of rig it because the wires for the switch and the light are TINY, and the wires into the back of the socket are HUGE; I actually grounded it out and popped the fuse because they were touching and I didn't know it.

The microswitch gets a lot of flack for "sticking" in the reviews, but with this tiny amount of current (these 2 tiny LEDs use a negligible amount of juice), that's unlikely to happen. If you put too much juice through this little switch, the contacts will weld together and the switch won't work anymore. The control center door has a mirror in it (for mine), and the back of the mirror is a perfect place to mount the door-side of the switch using the sticky tape (any magnet will work for that side). It's also pretty cool that the blocks can be installed in varying orientations and the switch will still activate. It's not unlimited, but there is enough flexibility to make it work.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
If you have a 28BHBE, or many other floor plans, you might understand why I had to replace the factory vent in the bedroom:

I got tired of arguing with DW about who was going to get air blown on them all night. We haven't been out since it was installed, but testing reveals VERY promising results; this should diffuse the cool air around the bedroom quite nicely!
 

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Happycampers, I see you folks past thru town last Sept. Where did youse guys take off from? Had I found you early I would have stopped by and say hello while you were cruising the Charles.
 
Camper bob, I bought the same vent for our 28DSBH and realized that it only has a 1/4 inch extension collar. The factory vent has a 1 5/8" (approx.) extension collar on it. How did you install the new vent so that it extends into the AC ductwork?
 
Camper bob, I bought the same vent for our 28DSBH and realized that it only has a 1/4 inch extension collar. The factory vent has a 1 5/8" (approx.) extension collar on it. How did you install the new vent so that it extends into the AC ductwork?

The one I got has the longer extension collar. In fact, I was thinking about trimming it down because I didn't want it to block any air flow. But then I figured this vent is at the end of the line, so all the air just dumps out.

The only problem I have with it now is that about 25% of the air blows right on the wall between the bedroom and the living room. So I'm thinking about fashioning some kind of simple deflector to block the portion of the vent that faces the wall and TV so that ALL of the air goes straight into the bedroom. But still not blowing directly on either one of us...
 
The one I got has the longer extension collar. In fact, I was thinking about trimming it down because I didn't want it to block any air flow. But then I figured this vent is at the end of the line, so all the air just dumps out.

The only problem I have with it now is that about 25% of the air blows right on the wall between the bedroom and the living room. So I'm thinking about fashioning some kind of simple deflector to block the portion of the vent that faces the wall and TV so that ALL of the air goes straight into the bedroom. But still not blowing directly on either one of us...

I'm sorry, that was completely wrong. :facepalm: I got to thinking about it, and I remember I had to disassemble the original vent. The extension collar on the original vent comes off. I used it on the new vent, and it fit pretty well, not perfect, but good enough. I just slipped it in, it does not attach. Also the screw holes did not line up, so I ended up having to punch two new holes in the roof. Good news is if I re-install the old vent, it will cover all the holes.
 

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