Purchasing a 2011 Jayco X17Z. Fresh Water Tank needs replaced. Advice?

[RVDad-JAY]

Hi, all.

Our friends are offering to sell us a 2011 Jayco X17Z for $5000. Wife really wants it, and it is in decent shape aside from one issue. I guess when they got it, the prior owner informed them that something was wrong with the Fresh/Potable water tank. They were told they'd have to replace it in order to use it, and learned to live without it after one they had on order never arrived.

This would be our first camper. My question is whether this is a good price for this RV assuming the above and also whether anyone knows how difficult (and expensive) it would be to replace a water tank in one of these things.

We have no experience with this, although I have been known to fake being handy in the past with some success. I just don't even know where to order one of these things or how to go about doing it.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Grumpy]

All depends on where the water tank is located. As to getting a tank, I think that was a good excuse on the part of the original seller.

Take the VIN and contact this company to start. No connection to the factory.

https://www.jaycorvparts.com/ or a local JAYCO dealer.

You are also close enough to White Pigeon Michigan to check with Bontragers.

https://bontragers.com/rv-supplies-accessories/

 

[RogerR]

Can you locate the tank and see a way to post some pictures. On my current 195rb the tank is under the bed. Replacement would be to remove the screws holding the bed plywood and then removing and installing a new tank. A few screws, some simple plumbing. if yours is under some other place you may have to partially disassemble something to get to it. No big deal. On a few the tank is under the bottom.

 

[JFlightRisk]

Welcome to the Forum from Western New York State!

The price they're asking is good as long as there's no hidden issue of water leaks at the bunk ends. Sometimes the seals can leak. Something to carefully check for on hybrid units.

As far as the freshwater tank, I'd investigate where it is and why it was deemed unusable. A crack can be repaired with a plastic welding kit if it's not catastrophic. More than likely it was made by Ameri-Kart, and there may me a sticker on it with the part number unless nature took it away. All the tanks on our 2012 19RD are that brand. RecPro offers a lot of them, you just have to see if yours is one of them on their site here:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fresh-water-tanks/

The shape of it, capacity, and port locations are important for a direct fit. Keep us posted on what you find out.







ro offers a lot of them, you just have to see if yours is one of them on their site here:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fresh-water-tanks/

 

[Jagiven]

Welcome aboard!

I would think that would be a good price. I had my insurance appraise my TT for a lot more than that 2 years ago.

Check the camper for hidden damage. Campers in general need a lot of ongoing maintenance. Get on the roof and check the caulking, also all the wall joints, and any penetration. A good sign is lots of different shades of white caulking, it shows signs of maintenance. The roof supports are 24" on center, so you will feel the roof flex as you walk between the supports. Check that the fiberglass walls are smooth and no waviness, is a sign of delamination, which is a sign of water penetration. Check around all the windows, hatches, door, for any soft spots, around the AC unit. Really any signs of water infiltration. IF there is any signs of water I would run. It is very hard to fix water damage.

Your tank placement should be just like mine, and is easily viewed form under the HTT, as we do not have an enclosed underbelly. It will be directly under your gravity fill port, most likely near your axle.

My guess, they left a lot of water in it and it froze solid and cracked the tank. But there is a chance the hit something while traveling and put a small crack in the tank.

The FW tank is translucent white. Crawl under the TT, and inspect the tank. I have two output bungs on the tank, one for the pump pickup and one for the low point drain, inspect them.

Before trying to put water in the tank find the gravity fill port on the inside of the TT, you will need to remove a false panel or a drawer or something. Check the hose fittings from the gravity fill port to the tank. Just incase it popped off or got damaged. Your water pump probably is in the same location, check it. There is an inlet screen. If there was water left in it over the winter the housing will crack. Also you will have a clear hose that is open ended, that is for the winterizing process. Check the valves that are connected to the other end. One is for the winterizing tube, and the other is to the FW tank. If the valve handle is turned crosswise, that valve is turned off. Make sure the winterizing valve is off and the FW tank valve is open.

Also at the top of the tank is the overflow tube, check it (you can see it for the pump access). Make sure it is connected to the tank and not damaged (don't need to flood the inside the camper).

If you did not find any damage, put 5 gallons or so of water in the tank. Does it leak? if not, test the pump. Does it work? No leaks, add another 5 gallons or so and repeat, until you find the issue.

There is a chance there is nothing wrong (just valve issues), or you have small damage from road debris, or major tank crack from leaving the FW tank full of water over the winter.

If it is a small crack you can plastic weld it back together. If you have to replace the tank, it is not designed to be easily removed, but not impossible. There are two cross members, that are riveted to the frame. Drill out the rivets, and replace the tank. Replace the rivets with grade 8 bolts. Worst part of the job, is laying on your back, and not having a lot of room as the HTT is low to the ground.

Good luck

Please post your findings, the 17Z and the 23B are similar.

 

[RVDad-JAY]

Welcome aboard!

I would think that would be a good price. I had my insurance appraise my TT for a lot more than that 2 years ago.

Check the camper for hidden damage. Campers in general need a lot of ongoing maintenance. Get on the roof and check the caulking, also all the wall joints, and any penetration. A good sign is lots of different shades of white caulking, it shows signs of maintenance. The roof supports are 24" on center, so you will feel the roof flex as you walk between the supports. Check that the fiberglass walls are smooth and no waviness, is a sign of delamination, which is a sign of water penetration. Check around all the windows, hatches, door, for any soft spots, around the AC unit. Really any signs of water infiltration. IF there is any signs of water I would run. It is very hard to fix water damage.

Your tank placement should be just like mine, and is easily viewed form under the HTT, as we do not have an enclosed underbelly. It will be directly under your gravity fill port, most likely near your axle.

My guess, they left a lot of water in it and it froze solid and cracked the tank. But there is a chance the hit something while traveling and put a small crack in the tank.

The FW tank is translucent white. Crawl under the TT, and inspect the tank. I have two output bungs on the tank, one for the pump pickup and one for the low point drain, inspect them.

Before trying to put water in the tank find the gravity fill port on the inside of the TT, you will need to remove a false panel or a drawer or something. Check the hose fittings from the gravity fill port to the tank. Just incase it popped off or got damaged. Your water pump probably is in the same location, check it. There is an inlet screen. If there was water left in it over the winter the housing will crack. Also you will have a clear hose that is open ended, that is for the winterizing process. Check the valves that are connected to the other end. One is for the winterizing tube, and the other is to the FW tank. If the valve handle is turned crosswise, that valve is turned off. Make sure the winterizing valve is off and the FW tank valve is open.

Also at the top of the tank is the overflow tube, check it (you can see it for the pump access). Make sure it is connected to the tank and not damaged (don't need to flood the inside the camper).

If you did not find any damage, put 5 gallons or so of water in the tank. Does it leak? if not, test the pump. Does it work? No leaks, add another 5 gallons or so and repeat, until you find the issue.

There is a chance there is nothing wrong (just valve issues), or you have small damage from road debris, or major tank crack from leaving the FW tank full of water over the winter.

If it is a small crack you can plastic weld it back together. If you have to replace the tank, it is not designed to be easily removed, but not impossible. There are two cross members, that are riveted to the frame. Drill out the rivets, and replace the tank. Replace the rivets with grade 8 bolts. Worst part of the job, is laying on your back, and not having a lot of room as the HTT is low to the ground.

Good luck

Please post your findings, the 17Z and the 23B are similar.

Thanks so much for all of this information. We actually have not purchased the trailer yet, but went over again to see it the other day and all looks good. I didn't have a chance to get under and check the tank though. The current owner says they've owned it for four years and never used the water tank. She said the previous owner told her that it had sediment in it or something.

Anyways, I'm sure after 4 years of non-use it is not in good shape.

We don't anticipate being anywhere where we can't survive for a few days with a few 2.5 gallon water jugs, but I am going to take a look once I have some more time and figure out if this is something I want to try on my own or let someone else take a crack at it!

Not sure if the "sediment" info changes your opinion on this. Would love to hear your point of view.