Rear Ladder Standoff Position

Jerry Burks

Advanced Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2019
Posts
67
Location
Pasadena
I want to add a rear ladder to my new (model 2018) Alante 31V.
I did get a drawing from Jayco for the rear wall layout that specifies locations for frame, thick playwood pieces and steel backers but I am not sure how to attach that thing. Should I screw the standoffs into the 1" plywood pieces or go for the steel backer strips (they are apparently only 28 gage i.e. really thin)?

Thanks, JB
 
Welcome to the forum, but your question is above my pay-grade.;) Hopefully someone else will have something helpful to offer.
 
I want to add a rear ladder to my new (model 2018) Alante 31V.
I did get a drawing from Jayco for the rear wall layout that specifies locations for frame, thick playwood pieces and steel backers but I am not sure how to attach that thing. Should I screw the standoffs into the 1" plywood pieces or go for the steel backer strips (they are apparently only 28 gage i.e. really thin)?

Thanks, JB




28 ga is what is called a non structural metal stud. I would screw into the plywood. To put it in perspective, the metal studs at HD and Lowes are 25 ga and are not structural studs either.
 
Welcome to the forum, but your question is above my pay-grade.;) Hopefully someone else will have something helpful to offer.
Thanks for the welcome. I guess I will be on here more often. New to motorhomes and lots of stuff to learn...

28 ga is what is called a non structural metal stud. I would screw into the plywood. To put it in perspective, the metal studs at HD and Lowes are 25 ga and are not structural studs either.
Thanks, that is what I suspected. I think I will try to double check the diagram location with a studfinder and magnets and then take the plunge. Would be just nice if somebody had tried it before :eek:
 
Update: I finished the ladder install (Stromberg Carlson LA401), it was actually pretty easy. The diagram from Jayco was correct about the location of the thick plywood plates for the latter standoff tubes. But I double checked with a stud finder and found it on the money. Now I have standoffs in the center of the top plate, center of the middle plate and the curved bottom of the ladder is screwed into the pair of bottom plates. With four 1.25" screws each they are not going anywhere.

For the U-shaped top end of the ladder rails I did not find any reinforcement on the roof to fasten to. I used screw-in plastic wall anchors to give the mounting screws a little more to hold to on than just the roof fiberglass sheet.

I did however shorten the ladder rails at the center joint to achieve even rung spacing and replaced the swivel joint hinge with an 8" long rigid tube (1/2" galvanized water pipe) as connector. Only disadvantage is that the first rung of the ladder is directly in front of the right tail light. But it covers only a small portion of its surface so I will leave that.
 
Jerry,


Sounds like you did a great job. Would love to see some pictures when you have a moment.


- Mike
 
...Would love to see some pictures when you have a moment......
Here you go. Feels pretty solid, but climbing a vertical ladder is interesting.
 

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