Suspension bushings

DJL1967

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Posts
241
Location
Northern Ontario
I have my TT in getting the bearings repacked and the brakes gone over prior to our west coast trip in two weeks. I was told the original nylon bushings are worn and need replacing. The trailer was new last year and has about 7,000km or 4,300 miles from our east coast trip last year. I am having them replaced with brass bushings that have grease fittings which I hope will last a lot longer.
Is it normal for the bushings to wear this quick? We definitely were not over loaded at anytime as I keep the weight down to a minimum.
 
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Yes it is especially on a rig that is towed a lot.
The Mod is called a "wet kit" and many owners do the job themselves. I installed it on my last rig and this one is in need of them. I purchases a set of bushings that do not have the grease fitting but are impregnated with lubricant.

I just need time to do it.
 
Just did this mod 2 weeks ago and the thin plastic bushing from the factory is not worth much. It's about as thick as a soda bottle and also about as durable. The kit will also provide you with heavier shackles to support the springs as well. It took me a little over an hour a side to do it as the nuts were not rusted up.

The kit runs about $90.00 from Mor Ryde.
 
Wow, I'm not sure I like this forum........my to do list keeps growing. LOL. You guys have got me thinking now. A couple of years ago I had a tweaked axle. Instead of getting the standard RV axle I went with a slightly narrower, in stock axle and just replaced both. I think the Jayco had 86 1/2" and I'm at 86" now. They are readily available and not a custom order. Being in Alaska I like to plan ahead. So I want to say that my suspension equalizer says Mor/ryde already, I'm at work now but will check when I get home. I'd like to replace the shackles at a minimum if they dont' have them already. I was looking at Mor/ryde's site and they said to raise the whole trailer at once. Those of you who have swapped to the better shackles, did you do this or do one side at a time? Also, part numbers, how many different ones are there? Did you guys just call Mor/ryde direct? Thanks.
 
I did mine on two different trailers. I think it is much easier to do one side at a time. Having the opposite side on he ground stabilizes everything and makes it easier to do.

It is easier to do with two people - there is a lot of moving this a bit so that that will fit. One to move, one to fasten; one to hold the bolt still, one to tighten the nut.

I think I called Mor-Ryde direct and recall them being easy to deal with.
 
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I did one side at a time. Supported it on 2 Jack stands and used 2 bottle jacks to raise and lower the axles. I also had it connected to the truck for more stability.
I had a mix of suspension parts and had to order some from Dexter and some from MorRyde. Took 6 hours for the first side and less that 4 for the second side.
 
Has anyone tried or know of anyone trying these? I don't know if they are for Lippert only...

Double Axle Suspension Bushings - Lippert Components Inc 279685 - Suspension Products - Camping World

They say, "Replace worn shackle links and parts with an upgrade kit that includes maintenance-free, permanently lubricated Never-Fail bushings. More economical and far more durable than conventional wet bolts with bronze bushings. You’ll never have to worry about worn spring bushings again!"

Too good to be true? Reality or marketing hype?
 
Has anyone tried or know of anyone trying these? I don't know if they are for Lippert only...

Double Axle Suspension Bushings - Lippert Components Inc 279685 - Suspension Products - Camping World

They say, "Replace worn shackle links and parts with an upgrade kit that includes maintenance-free, permanently lubricated Never-Fail bushings. More economical and far more durable than conventional wet bolts with bronze bushings. You’ll never have to worry about worn spring bushings again!"

Too good to be true? Reality or marketing hype?

But you still don't get the extra thick shackles. The bolts are grade 8 with a zerk for 2-3 pumps initially, then one a year and you are good to go.

I did one side at a time with my bottle jack and scizzors down for added safety. For 90 dollars it's a must do IMHO.
 
Suspension Springs

I'm not much of a DYI type and when installing the "kit" is there any chance of knocking your alignment out of whack? Just had my axles aligned and wouldn't want to spend another $125.00 anytime soon.:campfire:
 
Has anyone tried or know of anyone trying these? I don't know if they are for Lippert only...

Double Axle Suspension Bushings - Lippert Components Inc 279685 - Suspension Products - Camping World

They say, "Replace worn shackle links and parts with an upgrade kit that includes maintenance-free, permanently lubricated Never-Fail bushings. More economical and far more durable than conventional wet bolts with bronze bushings. You’ll never have to worry about worn spring bushings again!"

Too good to be true? Reality or marketing hype?

This is what I was referring in my post #2 . I have them but have not installed them yet.
 
I'm not much of a DYI type and when installing the "kit" is there any chance of knocking your alignment out of whack? Just had my axles aligned and wouldn't want to spend another $125.00 anytime soon.:campfire:


Mohok--I don't think so. I had the same thought earlier today. I believe the springs stay attached to the axle during the install. You're just changing the mounting points, should be equal change both sides. Therefore no alignment issues.
 
This is what I was referring in my post #2 . I have them but have not installed them yet.

I missed that in your post #2.

Please update us when you do the install and after. I read about them somewhere weeks ago and some said these are better and last longer than the 'wet' kits.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I did have the bushings replaced with brass ones and now I will look into weather or not this will be covered under the 2 year warranty.
 
Question. Several poster's said they replaced the bushings on one side of the trailer at a time. If I am reading their posts correctly they only had one side of the trailer jacked up, with the tires on the opposite side of the trailer resting on the ground. When doing the replacement this way, when the bolts were removed from the spring eyes/shackles was is hard to realign and re-install the bolts with the weight on the opposite side of the axle??
 
Question. Several poster's said they replaced the bushings on one side of the trailer at a time. If I am reading their posts correctly they only had one side of the trailer jacked up, with the tires on the opposite side of the trailer resting on the ground. When doing the replacement this way, when the bolts were removed from the spring eyes/shackles was is hard to realign and re-install the bolts with the weight on the opposite side of the axle??

You jack up one side at a time leaving the other side down. Put jack stands on the frame both in from and back of the axles. The jack stands are now supporting the weight of the trailer. Put a bottle jack under the axle. Raising it or lowering it will take the weight off of the shackle bolts and let you replace the bushings and new bolt.
 
You jack up one side at a time leaving the other side down. Put jack stands on the frame both in from and back of the axles. The jack stands are now supporting the weight of the trailer. Put a bottle jack under the axle. Raising it or lowering it will take the weight off of the shackle bolts and let you replace the bushings and new bolt.

That's the way I did it and I had no problems. You need some pry bars and a rubber hammer also for extra help.

Key is make sure the rig is stable. I had mine connected to the tow vehicle while working on it.
 
Thanks for the replies. I was thinking that with just one side jacked up it would place a side load on axles and when you removed the spring bolts the axles would shift and it would be very hard to get things realigned.
Bill
 
You need to remove all the bolts and shakles on the one side first as there was a need for me to push the axle forward and rear to have it fall below the mounting holes to the frame. There was a piece of steel welded within the mounting brackets that reinforce the mounts, but the springs do not drop straight out on my unit. They hit the steel and needed about an inch of movement to allow this clearance. Also if your bolts are rusty you will want to hit them with some liquid wrench a day ahead as they are in there good without rust.

I left a half turn on the old nuts and hit them with a hammer and block of wood. If you have a load hammer that will work as well.

Be very carefull with the brass bushings as they crack and bend very easily due to their softness. Hit them square with a 2 x 4 and hammer or rubber mallet.
 
I had a lot of tire wear issues last season and called Dexter. They were surprised that we have 20,000 miles on the plastic bushings and suggested we install the K71-448-00 Heavy Duty Suspension Kit . I have got it but haven't gotten it installed yet. Hopefully it makes a difference.
 
I had a lot of tire wear issues last season and called Dexter. They were surprised that we have 20,000 miles on the plastic bushings and suggested we install the K71-448-00 Heavy Duty Suspension Kit . I have got it but haven't gotten it installed yet. Hopefully it makes a difference.

Did you install this yet? If so, how did it go?
 

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