Thumb Latch "Binding"

[ccfeurer]

Good afternoon all and thank you in advance for your help here.

Curious if anyone has run into problems with their underslung coupler thumb locks not working correctly. My thumb latch won't close completely even when the the ball isn't in. It feels like it's binding/catching on something.

I've lubed things up, even used a Dremel to try to grind the welded walls and remove the paint a tiny bit but nothing has worked. I've tried to look at everything to determine an exact location where things are getting caught and can't pinpoint it.

Anyone ever found factory faulty problems? Or are these latches know for "breaking"? I might add...this trailer is new. Was delivered to us and has been hooked up to my truck a total of 3 times. The furthest distance I've towed it was 8 miles.

Thank you all!

 

[craigav]

Welcome to the Jayco Owners Forums.

I am not picturing in my mind exactly what is binding, perhaps a picture would be of value. In any case, if the coupler latch you are referring to is the one that holds the coupler securely on the ball, then it is very important that you remedy this otherwise the coupler could come loose with a big bump going down the highway. ~CA

 

[EJH]

Good afternoon all and thank you in advance for your help here.

Curious if anyone has run into problems with their underslung coupler thumb locks not working correctly. My thumb latch won't close completely even when the the ball isn't in. It feels like it's binding/catching on something.

I've lubed things up, even used a Dremel to try to grind the welded walls and remove the paint a tiny bit but nothing has worked. I've tried to look at everything to determine an exact location where things are getting caught and can't pinpoint it.

Anyone ever found factory faulty problems? Or are these latches know for "breaking"? I might add...this trailer is new. Was delivered to us and has been hooked up to my truck a total of 3 times. The furthest distance I've towed it was 8 miles.

Thank you all!

Mine was stubborn at first also. Part of it was it needed to break in, the other part was I needed to learn how to latch it better

Initially I had to close the latch, open it (while pushing it forward), then close again and it would drop into the groove 100%. I hope that make sense. I can video my maneuvering if that helps

 

[ccfeurer]

You're correct on it being the latch that holds the coupler on the ball. I'm definitely not taking it anywhere until things are fixed.

I added a couple of pictures to show how far forward the latch moves. It's not far enough to secure the ball in the coupler and, as I said, it won't move any further forward then shown in those pictures with the ball not inside the coupler.

I ordered a new coupler from e-trailer but am hoping there's someone that has had this before that did XYZ and got it work before going that route.

 

[ccfeurer]

That's where my problems lies...it won't move into locked position even when the ball isn't present. I've tried to mess with it over and over assuming it just needed to be broken in but hasn't fixed it.

 

[EJH]

I replied to your other thread....


Mine was stubborn and exactly like that at first also. Part of it was it needed to break in, the other part was I needed to learn how to latch it better

Initially I had to close the latch (would not be 100% locked in the groove), then open it (while pushing it forward), then close again and it would drop into the groove 100%. Sometimes I had to do that a few more times. I hope that make sense. I can video my maneuvering if that help. I really feel this just needs to break in, and you probably need to train yourself how to handle it

 

[Midnightmoon]

I replied to your other thread....

I just combined both threads in to one and moved all of the discussion here. Hopefully that will make it easier not having to jump back and forth between the two of them.

 

[craigav]

Many years back I had a trailer with a similar coupler design. What made it easier on mine was to pull forward about a half inch after dropping the coupler down all the way on the ball and with some trailer wheel chocks in place. Doing this would cause the ball to as far forward in the coupler as possible (other side of the hand latch) and that in turn would allow it to latch easier. Something to try, ~CA

 

[ccfeurer]

Thank you for the reply. However, the problem isn't when the ball is in the coupler. The latch won't close all the way when empty. I actually dropped the trailer on and pulled forward and reserved as well in hope if something was "out of line" that the movement and weight of the trailer would pop things loose. Didn't work unfortunately.

 

[Yooper906]

Thank you for the reply. However, the problem isn't when the ball is in the coupler. The latch won't close all the way when empty. I actually dropped the trailer on and pulled forward and reserved as well in hope if something was "out of line" that the movement and weight of the trailer would pop things loose. Didn't work unfortunately.

A question, are those welds fairly new? They sure look recent by the heat halo expanding from the weld onto the base metal of the frame, and I see no paint on the welds. Plus I see weld spatter all over. If that's a factory job, it sucks. I don't believe it's a factory weld.

 

[ccfeurer]

This unit was bought new in February of this year so it was considered "new". I also thought the welds looked rough. That's where I'm wondering if the welds created a lip or something that's causing the binding. I was considering heating the metal up and trying to pound the inside of the coupler "smoother" per say to see if that takes care of the problem. However, I was hoping there was something a bit simpler then that. Worse case is I have to use the new coupler I bought and pay for someone to do a correct weld job.

P.S. There is paint on the welds but the picture just has a "sheen" that make them appear unpainted.

 

[craigav]

Thank you for the reply. However, the problem isn't when the ball is in the coupler. The latch won't close all the way when empty. I actually dropped the trailer on and pulled forward and reserved as well in hope if something was "out of line" that the movement and weight of the trailer would pop things loose. Didn't work unfortunately.

From underneath and where the ball goes, there is a steel locking plate that sometimes can get wedged in the rearward side (the latch side) of the coupler, especially if the coupler is lowered on the ball and the plate above the ball is not fully retracted (the latch isn't fully retracted).

What you can usually do is use a screwdriver from underneath to release that steel plate (it is connected to the latch) and then the trailer ball may go back in as it should. When this plate is wedged, the cannot get the latch to work either. Sometimes a screwdriver and a few taps on the latch with a small hammer is needed.

You will know if you were successful when the latch and steel locking plate is able to be moved again. ~CA

 

[ccfeurer]

I appreciate that. I will try to work that side of things when I get home this evening.