Time for Some 2015 185RB Baja Repairs & Upgrades

[MrKABC]

I'm so hesitant about solar because of the whole drilling into the roof thing. 600W would be amazing! That would really extend my boondocking time and keep me from having to drive to recharge.

Drilling into the roof is a snap. Especially with the Jayco, since the roofing on my 195 appeared to be more substantial than the one currently on my Keystone. Fishing the wires from the "gland" (I didn't make up the name, it's the roof port for the MC4 solar connectors) was more trouble since the 10g wires are not fun to run down the header.

I ended up pulling one of the puck lights, drilling upwards into the roof OSB, then getting on the roof and drilling out the hole to be larger to accommodate the wiring through the roof. Liberal application of Dicor and we were in business. Waited a couple of days for the Dicor to dry then blasted with water - no leaks!

Doooooo ittttt...

 

[Bob K2]

Axle Upgrade

During a recent trip, I figured we were about at our heaviest. Four new lithium batteries, new inverter, a full fresh water tank, and full black and grey tanks. Plus, we had extra supplies loaded in the RV for special activities. I decided to hit the weigh scale and found out that we were, uh, VERY overweight on our single 3,500lb axle, wheels, and tires...as in 700 pounds overweight. This was reinforced by the fact that the inside edges of the trailer tires were wearing at an accelerated rate. Oof!

We live in this little RV for extended periods of time, so I don't see us getting any lighter. Time for an axle upgrade.

My lovely wife made all of the arrangements with Dexter. By giving them the serial number off of our existing Dexter axle, they were able to match all of the critical measurements to build a 5,200 lb axle. Fantastic customer service and interaction from Dexter. Pro tip: Take pictures of all of the stickers on your axle and trailer for later use. They'll eventually become unreadable. We sprung for the auto-adjust brakes. Delivered to our door was $1,020.


It's hard to believe that a mere 4 bolts is all that holds the entire axle onto the trailer, but after lots of jacking, blocking, etc., the new axle is in. We attached the trailer tongue to our tow vehicle so that we only had to lift and support the two rear corners. That also meant the trailer at least couldn't move forward or backward. We ran out of 6x6 and 4x4 blocking -- the offroad RV sits high and standard floor jacks just don't have the height -- so we resorted to some redneck firewood rounds. A floor creeper worked well to slide one end of the axle underneath the RV while two people lifted and pushed the axle from the other side. The bare axle and springs weigh about 200 pounds, and that's maybe 30 pounds heavier than the original 3,500-lb axle.


The new axle is a 6-lug pattern and I needed wheels with a higher weight rating, so I purchased two new wheels from eTrailer. They're rated for 2,600 lb each. We thought about going up to a 16" wheel so that we could use taller tires and get more ground clearance, but I wasn't confident that I'd get enough clearance in the wheel well when the springs were compressed, so we stuck with the original 15" wheel size.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/Dexstar/AM20514.html.

Unfortunately, the center pilot hole on this particular wheel is 3.65", which is a non-standard size. I can't find a center hub cover in that diameter. They jump from 3.17" up to the industry standard 4.25". Had I known that, I would have purchased a different wheel with a standard 4.25" pilot hole. Hub covers at that size are abundant. The only available cover is a "half moon" hubcap that's more appropriate for a retro trailer than it is for a lifted offroad trailer. I may end up just leaving the end of the hub exposed if I can't find a more aesthetic solution. (Yes, both grease caps were dented in transit and Dexter is sending us new ones.)


I also needed two new tires capable of handling the extra weight. I purchased Falken A/T4W LT235-75/R15 tires with a load index of 116.
https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/falken-wildpeak-a-t4w

These are 10-ply equivalent offroad tires with a weight rating of 2,756 lb per tire.
https://www.treadwright.com/blogs/treadwright-blog/understanding-tires-load-index-vs-load-range


I estimate I gained a couple additional inches of ground clearance with the new springs and tires, so I'll need to readjust the weight distribution hitch.

I expect at our heaviest that we'll run about 4,400 pounds, so this new 5,200-lb axle setup will now give us a safe 800 pound safety cushion.

 

[Bob K2]

New Lug Nuts

This new Dexter axle came from the factory with plan, open-face lug nuts. I installed some closed end 1/2-20 x 1.38" acorn nuts in order to protect the studs from rust and offroad debris.


Amazon has a plethora of black acorn lug nuts, but these seem to get good ratings.
https://a.co/d/1IkQfe2


Yes, the grease caps ended up like that in transit from Dexter. They immediately sent us new ones, but I haven't installed them yet. I'd like to wait for summer and paint them black.

 

[wildbound]

Bob, It's been a while since you were dealing with the leaking front window, but do you have any update how you finally solved that issue? We are new to the TT life and have discovered that the front window on our 174BH is leaking in a similar way--at the lower corners of the window and going out. We started out by pulling the window and replacing the butyl sealant then going around the outside with proflex. When that didn't work, we pulled the rubber weatherstripping and oh my was there water behind there even though it hasn't rained in 3 days! I assume the next step is to pull the glass, clean the surface, and reseal from scratch. Since you seem to have walked a similar road, I would love advice.

Thanks.

 

[Bob K2]

Bob, It's been a while since you were dealing with the leaking front window, but do you have any update how you finally solved that issue? We are new to the TT life and have discovered that the front window on our 174BH is leaking in a similar way--at the lower corners of the window and going out. We started out by pulling the window and replacing the butyl sealant then going around the outside with proflex. When that didn't work, we pulled the rubber weatherstripping and oh my was there water behind there even though it hasn't rained in 3 days! I assume the next step is to pull the glass, clean the surface, and reseal from scratch. Since you seem to have walked a similar road, I would love advice. Thanks.

I haven't finished the repair but that's the same thing I intend to do: Remove the window, clean off all surfaces, and reseal with silicone. I just need to stay home long enough and stop using the TT long enough to effect the repair.

 

[Bob K2]

Leaky Window Plan C -- Ditch the Gasket and Use Silicone

It turns out that I can't re-silicone a window worth a darn. All of the water was coming through the repair I thought I made last Fall and sneaking through the frame. That new black gasket, despite how tight it is, isn't tight enough to keep out water. That really surprised me.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/...repairs-and-upgrades-75556-8.html#post1076301

View attachment 86297

I have the gasket & seam taped up with painter's tape right now and it'll stay that way until we're in a place where we can effect a repair. This time I'll be detaching and resealing the entire window.

I originally planned to remove the window, clean it, and completely reseal it the same way it was done by the manufacturer. However, I just couldn't guarantee that it wouldn't fail again in the future.

I switched to Plan C: Get rid of the rubber gasket and fill the entire channel with silicone sealant. Since water was sneaking by the gasket and pooling in the extruded aluminum channel, I figure water can't pool in a channel if there IS no channel.


During application, I used the caulking gun to force silicone under some pressure into the various aluminum channels. I'm not sure why I always think I can apply a nice bead of silicone just by smoothing it out with my wetted finger. Never works. Ugh. What a mess!


I smartened up and masked the second half of the window. That, of course, let me use my finger to force the caulk down into the channels even more as I was smoothing out the bead. I let it sit for just a few minutes and then peeled off the tape. I waited too long on one spot and it started to skin. Removing the tape pulled the thin edge of silicone away from the surface in a couple spots.


One half is done, thanks to the tape. I've got quite a bit of cleanup to do on the other half of the window.


This, I hope, will put an end to my front window leak once and for all.

 

[Bob K2]

WFCO-8735AD Charger/Converter Firmware Upgrade

When I purchased and installed the new WFCO WF-8735AD Auto Detect charger/converter, it arrived with v1.19 firmware. Despite using WFCO's various tricks, it wouldn't switch into lithium mode and properly charge my lithium battery bank. WFCO said a firmware upgrade would fix the problem and make it work properly with my Battleborn batteries.

The RMA process was pretty easy through WFCO's online warranty page. The new v1.21a firmware is supposed to increase the lithium charge voltage and increase the bulk charge timer from 4 hours to 10 hours (so that people wouldn't have to cycle the charger power several times if charging a large battery bank). Turn time was about 2 weeks.

Despite the firmware upgrade, it still wouldn't switch into lithium mode. WFCO then sent me a jumper to lock the unit into lithium mode. You can ask them to do this for you during the firmware upgrade process if you're not comfortable doing it yourself or don't envision switching back to lead batteries at some point.


I had a really difficult time getting a hold of someone through WFCO's 800 number. If you have the same problem, give Larry Artressia a call. He's their senior technical support:

l.artressia@wfcotech.com
(574)294-8997 Ext. 112

Larry speculated that I might have a weak ground somewhere that is preventing the charger from seeing the voltage change it needs in order to switch to lithium. I've checked the grounds and am pretty certain that's not the issue, so he sent me the jumper to lock the unit into lithium mode and just bypass the problem altogether. Excellent help. If I ever want to switch back to lead acid batteries, the jumper is as easy to remove as it was to install.

Added bonus: The green and blue mode LEDs are on the same daughter board where the jumper is. In my tiny RV, those LEDs are way too bright at night. I covered them up with some electrical tape while I was in there to install the jumper.

Bottom line: If you buy a WF-8735AD and plan to use it for lithium, don't install it until it has at least v1.21a firmware, and ask WFCO to put the jumper on for you so that you don't have to fuss with the "auto detect" feature.

 

[Bob K2]

Indel B CR130 Compressor Refrigerator Install

Bob, Update on fridge.

Thanks to the work Charles did, I decided to pull the trigger and install an Indel B CR130 (TR130) DC compressor refrigerator.

The fridge compressor is natively DC; however, it's also available in a DC/AC version with an onboard inverter. That's not necessary for most owners since the RV's charger/converter will run the DC side of the RV when plugged into shore power.

Price shipped from TruckFridge (no sales tax) was $1,111. I asked if they had any specials running and the company offered me a 10% off code.
https://truckfridge.com/collections/12v-refrigerator-models/products/custom-semi-truck-refrigerator

The original Norcold N306 fridge was precisely 1/2" too wide to fit out the door, even with absolutely everything excess removed from the fridge. The absorption system on the back is just too deep and is unmovable, so I cut the front off and offered it up for free on Facebook Marketplace for anyone who might like it for spare parts.


While I had the cabinet apart, I installed a 3-foot long Frost King AC heat tape on the water lines. I use the RV year-round and this spot under the false floor is the only place I can't keep the water lines from freezing. I paired it with a remote AC switch that'll now use the AC receptacle vacated by the original fridge. The switch is mounted underneath the sink.
https://a.co/d/9zhLeAM
https://a.co/d/1XAKDsb


I had to cut an additional portion of the cabinet frame in order to fit the slightly greater width. Wifey then applied Kilz paint to the entire inside of the cabinet since it was, historically, exposed to the outside world. Batting insulation went up wherever it would fit and wouldn't block the cooling coils or the front ventilation grate. This was mostly to insulate the RV interior from the outside world and not for the fridge's benefit. 12 AWG duplex wire made the connection from the fridge to the power distribution center. I used a WAGO lever nut to add it to an existing 15 amp DC circuit that only had a few LED lights on it. I monitored the fridge during startup and it only pulled about 5 amps for a bit and then settled down to about 3.3 amps to maintain, so adding it to an existing circuit on the charger/converter is no big deal. Subsequent cycles, even when the RV was 90 degrees inside, consistently pulled only 3.3 amps.
https://a.co/d/5l2ta8o


Make sure you ask TruckFridge for the female side of the connector. It comes with the male side attached to the fridge wiring, but I had to ask for the female side to make a clean connection to the RV, and they sent it to me for free.


The fridge has little rubber feet. The false floor was uneven, of course, so I used a couple shims under the feet to stabilize the fridge before screwing it to the cabinet frame.


The fridge is designed to be installed in a closed cabinet. It pulls cooling air in from the RV underneath the fridge and then exhausts air out through the top front grate trim. I plan to completely block off the old exterior vents in order to keep dust out of the trailer.


Not having to deal with a temperamental absorption fridge in hot weather should really improve quality of life for us as we travel. My 400 Ah lithium battery bank will run this fridge for weeks.

 

[Bob K2]

Solar Install Part 1

Doooooo ittttt...

Thanks to MrKABC's encouragement, I installed solar on the little Batcave. I opted for flexible panels for the weight savings and decided on a no-drill installation, so I used a lot of Eternabond.

I selected the BougeRV 200 watt flexible panels because of their lighter weight (than Renogy panels), higher efficiency, and an Amazon Prime Days sale.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ36WRKB

A number of installers and YouTube videos mentioned how flexible panels, if they are taped directly to the RV roof, can overheat, damage the roof, substantially reduce the panel output, or even cause hot spots on the panels. BougeRV indicated that their panels have a more heat resistant backing and that the double-sided butyl tape used for installation has some standoff height to help with heat, but encouraged the installation of a ventilating backer board if able. I also noted how several installers experienced trapped water underneath the panel if they didn't get the tape installed perfectly. I opted to attach the panels to double-wall polycarbonate panels for ventilation. Coroplast was a thought but it's just too crushable for this application. Polycarbonate is nearly indestructible in this application. These are available at Lowe's for $95 per sheet. I bought two panels, and I was able to cover all 4 solar panels by cutting out the biggest sizes & then scabbing in pieces where necessary.


I made sure that the flutes ran east-west regardless of whether the panels were installed north-south or east-west. This is necessary because the north edge of all panels has to be taped down to prevent wind lift while driving. If the flutes were run north-south, that tape would have completely blocked off one end of the flutes.


I used Eternabond's 2" double-sided tape and tried to be very strategic with how much I used, minimizing it for cost, weight savings, and proper ventilation/drainage. I generally used 4 equally spaced lines of tape to attach the panels to the polycarbonate and left the south ends open for drainage. Ended up using 2.5 rolls for the total installation. I reasoned that I wanted the connection between the polycarbonate and the panel to be more rigid in order to prevent wind vibration while driving (and potential damage from that repetitive vibration). I figured I could ease up on the amount of tape to attach the sandwich to the RV roof...basically enough to provide plenty of drainage and hold it down but no more.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IZCRGS


In hindsight, I should have left a gap in the tape so that water could drain out the top edge of the panel as well. In this configuration, I've created a closed pocket where water can pool and can only get out through the south end of the sandwich.


For attaching the sandwich to the roof...on north-south panels, I installed 3 lines of tape: One on each edge and one down the middle. On east-west panels, I installed 4 equally spaced lines of tape. I also left a 5-inch gap in the tape at the north end of each panel for unobstructed drainage. That way, there are fully open channels all the way from the top of the panel down to the south edge of the panel. I'll be able to spray water or air in there as necessary for cleaning and be sure that there's a clear path all the way through...no pockets where stuff can get trapped.


While this installation method (polycarbonate panels and tape) cost an additional $200 in polycarbonate and about $100 in tape, I'm hoping that the ventilation flutes will keep the panels nice and cool and prevent roof damage.

 

[Bob K2]

Solar Install Part 2

The panels come with 10 gauge wires, but I opted for 8 gauge wire to connect the panels and to run down to the charge controller. I wanted some flexibility (and increased ampacity) should I ever decide to upgrade panels or run these panels in a parallel configuration. I made the mistake of not buying UV-rated wire, so I opted to cover the exposed portions of wire in shrink tube.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5QPGWSG

I removed the old aerial antenna and used that hole for entry into the RV.


Lots more Eternabond and a thin piece of aluminum to cover the excess hole. I also stuffed a lot of insulation in the ceiling. Jayco removed a lot of insulation around that area while installing the antenna, so I had nothing but a couple thin pieces of wood between me and the cold world in that spot.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CKTQ4ZQ


A few standard components down in the electrical bay, including the Victron controller, a 40-amp breaker, and DC disconnect (a breaker being used as a double pole disconnect). I opted for the Victron 150/35 charge controller so that I could run these panels in a 4S (four in serial) or a 2S2P (2 serial, 2 parallel) configuration. In 4S, they generate 80 volts at 11.7 amps. In 2S2P, they generate 40 volts at 11.7 x 2 = 23.4 amps. This was the smallest DC disconnect DIN housing I could find. In hindsight, I should have used non-insulated ferrules. I ran out of room pretty quickly with insulated ferrules on the 8 gauge wire coming from the PV array and the 6 gauge wire going to the charge controller. Indeed, I had to take the glands off in order to fit the wires. A large DIN housing makes sense if you have the room, but I'm running out of space in my little RV basement.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7VHJYK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZHRG9K
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSK2RLFF


The Victron controller terminals accept, at max, 6 gauge wire, and that's a real pain to get in unless you use ferrules. Ferrules make it a cake walk.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CW923DVQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091Q5YKZT


I used UV-rated zip tie anchors for the wires. They come with that cheap foam tape, so I removed that and installed small squares of the Eternabond double-sided tape. Inside the RV, the wire is routed down into the basement and covered using "cord hiding channel" adhered to the ceiling & wall that I purchased from Menard's.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08779Z38V


8 gauge MC4 connectors are aren't as common but are still readily available on Amazon. Keep in mind that these require a standard hydraulic crimper rather than a regular MC4 crimping die. Get the MC4 spanner wrenches, too. You'll need them for final tightening and to release MC4 connectors that have the "security lock" feature.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQ5H6M7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08394KWZV

Finally, the north edges of all panels got a strip of Eternabond in order to prevent wind lift while driving.

Now begins the process of seeing how well these perform in a 4-serial configuration when they're shaded. These BougeRV panels are supposed to have more busbars and more bypass diodes to permit panels to continue operating even when shaded. So far, I've seen about 150-200 watts out of the array just from ambient light on completely overcast days. If shading attenuates output too much, I'm prepared to switch to a 2S2P configuration.


Next up is installing a permanent ladder on the back of the RV so that I can clean these panels. In just one day, autumn leaves have made a real mess of the panels and the roof. And yes, I'm wearing my fuzzy house slippers to walk around on the roof.

 

[MrKABC]

Wow Bob... THAT looks NICE!!!!!!!!

 

[MrKABC]

@Bob K2 How are the panels holding up so far? I wish I had followed in your footsteps with your "flush" panels rather than my bracket/clunky install.

 

[Bob K2]

@Bob K2 How are the panels holding up so far? I wish I had followed in your footsteps with your "flush" panels rather than my bracket/clunky install.

So far, so good. Of course, I'm getting water within the various layers but there appears to be enough drainage for drying. I've only seen a max of ~520 watts (but with full 80v) out of the array so far with the sun at winter angles. The taping strategy is holding everything to the roof quite nicely.