Tire Pressure

[Rocksride!]

This is so simple. Do not run China Junk. E rated 80
PSI max, G rated 110 PSI max. Get ur RV scaled and run the pressure according to that tire inflation/weight requirement. Check cold, never let air out hot. And use TPMS. The RV sticker uses PSI for your max weight, RV fully loaded. Every tire manufacturer has a weight to PSI chart for that tire.
Rock

 

[jadatis]

For the 110psi tire you need a bit more pressure for the same load as for the 80 psi tire.
American pressure/loadcapacity-lists give all the loadranges in one list, but that is wrong, this European guy dares to state.
In Europe for every loadrange ( called plyrating here) of same sise, a different P/LC list is made.

Its most likely your tires blew,because pressure was to low for the load and speed.
So old 80psi tires needed fi 90 psi( wich is not allowed anymore).
Then the 110psi new tires need mayby 100psi, to cover the same overloading and speed.

Let me calculate it for you, give tire and vehicle specifications.

Then rimms in Europe are only maxload given for, not max pressure, as I understand is done in USA.
If you overload the rimms, it can lead to slow leaking rimms.

Advicepressure is given for cold ( when in and outside tire temp is the same) for reason, its reliable to measure.
But goal is to give the tire a warm pressure, so deflection , that wont overheat the tire, when driving the speed , advice is determined for.

 

[TWP723]

I was going to stay out of this one...not here to argue, but...
Since you brought up aviation, I've been a commercial aircraft mechanic for 35 years and all tire pressures are adjusted when COLD. When tire pressures are checked after a flight, the temps are 30-40 psi higher than cold. You NEVER let nitrogen out of the tires when they are hot. You basically are checking that the tires are all within a few degrees of each other. Tire manufacturers account for this. This is my experience from reading actual documentation from the manufacturers. You can do as you please, that's your perogative, just bad advice for the people here seeking advice

Someone say AVIATION!

 

[Rocksride!]

Come on now, we all know u run out right after a hard heavy landing and let air out of C5 tires. And to help cool them smoking brakes some CO2 works wonders.
AMCM (Ret)

 

[TWP723]

Come on now, we all know u run out right after a hard heavy landing and let air out of C5 tires. And to help cool them smoking brakes some CO2 works wonders.
AMCM (Ret)

Not if you have 30" Alaskan Bush tires!

 

[Digsdeep]

First off, 80 psig is not cold pressure, use that as running pressure. I set our tires (Pinnacle at about 70 psig cold. By the time you run up the highway about 50 miles (summer) chances are your trailer tires are at or above 80 requiring a stop to relieve pressure. TPMS on every wheel is mandatory if you don't want to blow tires. This is the reason why so many have tire blowouts - running to high pressure and too fast.

My experience is quite the opposite... A low tire overheats and over expands then you have a blow out. Speed is a factory for sure but is way worse on an underinflated tire.

 

[Travln2]

My experience is quite the opposite... A low tire overheats and over expands then you have a blow out. Speed is a factory for sure but is way worse on an underinflated tire.

True. When I read the literature from the tire companies, it's always under-inflation they're concerned with.

 

[txloser]

Thought of this thread today when I checked pressure for first time since March. Hot Texas day and I was at 85-90 cold.

 

[THenne1713]

Follow the sticker/ label, NOT the sidewall, and understand that the 110# MAX COLD IS MAX COLD, NOT MAX HOT. You COULD/ should WEIGH RIG if concerned, but I would still follow label UNLESS running at/ over Max axle or GCVW? I also agree that 110#COLD would make trailer Bounce too much if weight within reason.

 

[billcf7]

follow label UNLESS running at/ over Max axle or GCVW?

Never run over max axle or GVWR

 

[citgodan]

I only check the tire pressure cold, out of sunlight. I set it to 80 lb, as Jayco directs for these tires, which in this case happens to be the max sidewall pressure.
The pressure goes up when driving. That is normal and already figured into the recommended cold inflation pressure.

The only time I will change the pressure is when the outside temp changes a lot.
If I fill up the tires when it's 40 degrees outside then drive to a place that's 80 degrees, I'll adjust the pressure as soon as the tires cool down for 3 hours, out of the sun.

But I'm not going to let air out of my tires at a rest area when they are hot. There is no way to accurately gauge your tire pressure when hot. Maybe that's different for tractor trailers, but for us, all manufacturers and tire companies I've seen say the same thing- Inflate cold. Check cold.

Enough said

 

[Hog3loves]

Only once have I ever "deflated a tire" while on a trip without a stop to allow them to cool first.

Left Fairbanks AK in our GMC Suburban on DECEMBER 21st, 1991, trying to get wife to Colorado to her father's deathbed before he passed. Outside temp: -42F. As it was constantly dark (no sense in stopping for the "night" since it was alway "night or dusk") and with 3 drivers we drove non-stop for 48 hours. When I noticed we had escaped the seriously cold outside temp and saw something above freezing, I stopped and deflated 15 psi from each tire. Nothing scientific and I can't remember the particular numbers I used, but I did know we would be going into increasing OAT for the remainder of the trip before stopping in Calgary. Stupid to do, I admit...but no harm, no foul.

Last comment on this topic. Many have posted the heat factor in tire life and safety. Speed is the biggest component to that heat factor. I've heard it somewhere, maybe this forum. "NOTHING GOOD EVER HAPPENS OVER 65 MPH WHEN TOWING A 5TH WHEEL." I agree and set the cruise to 65, BRIEFLY going over that to pass the slower vehicle in our right lane. But NEVER ABOVE 70 for that brief minute or two.