Weber Q w factory quick connect?

jlawley said:
At the risk of showing how little I know about propane connections, if I removed the regulator from the grill and ran the quick connect straight from the camper to the grill, how would I adjust the flame?
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Just try it and see with the reg.my rvq had a reg on it and yes you do need to adjust the flame somehow.the rv quick connect is convenient but not practical in all situations.
 
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Jack in Alaska said:
My Bungalow has the bracket to attach the RV Q to it but.............the RV sales man said why would you want to attach a box of fire to your RV?? Makes sense to me. They are handy for sure but potentially dangerous.
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The whole RV is a potential firebox. If they were really that dangerous, the RV manufacturers would have stopped making them a feature or option. IMO
 
I use an extension hose and set the BBQ grill on a table away from the RV then use it.

I never cared much for the pits that mounted to the side wall of an RV either. That just looks to easy for something to go wrong!
 
First - my Weber Q will not work well using the quick disconnect because that propane source is already regulated by the trailer and there is barely enough pressure to open the regulator on the Weber. Only way to make that work is to eliminate the Weber regulator with the fittings shown earlier.

And I found out from a Google search that the reason I have had to purchase two new regulators for my Weber Q over about 5 years is because they are not designed to run on the pressure from a bulk propane tank. They fill with oil and eventually quit working. They are only designed to operate on the pressure from those small, disposable propane bottles. I quit using my 20# tank and hose, and now it works great and the regulator lasts!
 
Easy fix on utube remove Weber regulator, ours works fine!Home Depot has all the brass connectors for the conversion!
 

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Scoutr2 said:
First - my Weber Q will not work well using the quick disconnect because that propane source is already regulated by the trailer and there is barely enough pressure to open the regulator on the Weber. Only way to make that work is to eliminate the Weber regulator with the fittings shown earlier.

And I found out from a Google search that the reason I have had to purchase two new regulators for my Weber Q over about 5 years is because they are not designed to run on the pressure from a bulk propane tank. They fill with oil and eventually quit working. They are only designed to operate on the pressure from those small, disposable propane bottles. I quit using my 20# tank and hose, and now it works great and the regulator lasts!
Click to expand...

My experience is different. I converted mine several years ago and use it in the rv and at home. So far I have had zero problems with oil.
 
First let me state that I'm a newbie... Do all Jayco trailers have this gas connection at the rear for the grill? Mine has the little lip to hang the grill, but I don't have that grill. I would be happy just connecting my tabletop grill to the big tanks and not have to deal with those disposable cans.
 
jaycojake said:
First let me state that I'm a newbie... Do all Jayco trailers have this gas connection at the rear for the grill? Mine has the little lip to hang the grill, but I don't have that grill. I would be happy just connecting my tabletop grill to the big tanks and not have to deal with those disposable cans.
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Best thing to do is look under the propane tanks on the tongue and follow the iron pipe to where ever it ends with a brass coupler somewhere near the rear bumper. Should have a colored plug in the brass coupler wich is a QD version as well.
 
I found the gas line and a T connecter near the end of the pipe. It was getting dark and I was under there with a flashlight so i couldn't get a picture. I'll try to describe it the best I can from memory.
Before the end of the pipe, there is a T with the "bottom leg of the T" heading up to what I believe is the cooktop.
A few inches down the line, towards the rear, there is another T with a line heading to the rear which I believe goes to the water heater or the furnace. On the other end of the T, I call it the bottom part of a letter T, there's a line coming out of the side of the adapter which heads to the furnace or water heater. At the end of this screw in adapter, I believe there is a screw on cap. I'm guessing this is where the hose would connect for the grill fuel source.

Is there by chance a kit to get the gas connected to the source and run under the trailer to a quick connect?


I hope that makes sense and I'll get a couple pictures tomorrow.

These T connectors are in between the tires so hopefully not much is needed in making the connection I'll be doing the work while crawled under there.

Thanks for the help!
 
jimp said:
I realize the propane line on the MH is regulated, but my question was using the modified Weber grill with JUST a portable propane tank, NOT connected to the MH.
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You MUST have a regulator between the propane tank and the appliance...any gas appliance.
You can get something like this to use at home, and it will connect to your adapted grill. https://www.amazon.com/SHINESTAR-Re...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= (Illustration, NOT a recommendation.)

With an arrangement like this, your grill will be easy to use in either location, and you won't be chained to the tiny propane bottles anymore.
 
jaycojake said:
I found the gas line and a T connecter near the end of the pipe. It was getting dark and I was under there with a flashlight so i couldn't get a picture. I'll try to describe it the best I can from memory.
Before the end of the pipe, there is a T with the "bottom leg of the T" heading up to what I believe is the cooktop.
A few inches down the line, towards the rear, there is another T with a line heading to the rear which I believe goes to the water heater or the furnace. On the other end of the T, I call it the bottom part of a letter T, there's a line coming out of the side of the adapter which heads to the furnace or water heater. At the end of this screw in adapter, I believe there is a screw on cap. I'm guessing this is where the hose would connect for the grill fuel source.

Is there by chance a kit to get the gas connected to the source and run under the trailer to a quick connect?


I hope that makes sense and I'll get a couple pictures tomorrow.

These T connectors are in between the tires so hopefully not much is needed in making the connection I'll be doing the work while crawled under there.

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

You don't say, but it sounds as if you are plumbed with "black pipe". If so, the cap on the "Tee" can be removed, and you can use a hose to route the propane to a suitable location and add a quick connect to the end of the hose. Hopefully the Tee stub points "into" the center of the trailer, not out between the tires.

This is an illustration of what MIGHT work. The "female" threaded fitting on one end could connect to the uncapped black pipe Tee, and the male end of the hose is where you attach the (included) quick connect.https://www.amazon.com/GasSaf-Natur...ch+npt+to+quick+connect&qid=1578090364&sr=8-2

You speak of clearance issues (near the wheels) and so on, so a major consideration will be routing the gas hose in a way that it can't make contact with a tire, and shielding the hose to protect it from road debris. This does not seem like the ideal location for a new gas fitting if the Tee points out between the tires.

My rig was plumbed with soft copper and flare fittings, and that style of plumbing is easier to adapt and move about.

You might consider "breaking into the gas line" at another location...say near the hot water heater. It's very likely that the black pipe will terminate short of the hot water heater, and then the heater will be fed by either hose or soft copper line. The same would be true of the kitchen range and the fridge. You might insert a "Tee" at the end of the black pipe and then connect the hot water heater to one leg of the Tee and route a gas hose to a convenient location near the edge of the RV's body. Your biggest challenge may be fabricating a secure mount for the quick-release end of the hose (where you connect your grill) and securing the "loose" hose to the underside of the rig with U-clamps that won't chafe the hose. Something like this might do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-2-Hole-Pipe-Clamp/dp/B072JX2596

Seek the advice of a knowledgeable person about making these connections. You may need special pipe "dope" or gas-rated teflon tape for the threaded joints, and any connector that threads onto the black pipe should either be female pipe thread or have an appropriate gasket to prevent leaks. A female Tee connection is easier, because it's easy to find pipe-threaded male brass fittings.

All connections should be CAREFULLY tested with the system pressurized using a pump sprayer with soapy water solution to check for leaks (bubbles). If you are not reasonably comfortable and confident doing this work, you may want to seek professional help. A gas leak and explosion could ruin your day. :eek::eek:
 
I purchased a hose from CW (see pic below) that had the connection to plug into external LP valve on the rear of our Eagle HT. The other end had a connector that screwed into my Q grill where you would normally use a 1 lb bottle. It works perfectly. So I assume that having the line regulated and the inlet to the grill is regulated at the valve is not a problem because for me it was just that easy as buying the hose with the correct connections and it works perfectly.


Archie
 

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Hey if it works, it works, but typically these low pressure grills, griddles, etc don't produce the same amount of BTUs when"double regulated". You will still get a flame but usually not as robust, which is why typically the regulator on the grill is removed in the process of setting up the quick connect. As was said above if you are making these gas connections you do need special pipe dope or tape. A leak, even a very small one can have disastrous consequences.
 
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