What Did You Do To Your RV TODAY?

OnTheGo said:
... have never heard of Freedom Hauler, and hope you don't have to use that one either. I'm going to look into that brand for my utility trailer. Otherwise, it sounds like you are good to go. Another 8 years?
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Lol. Every year I I’m feeling a little bit stiffer and sorer after the annual “get it ready” routine — washing, waxing, dewinterizing etc. don’t know if I have 8 more years in me :).
 
LuckyDuck said:
Lol. Every year I I’m feeling a little bit stiffer and sorer after the annual “get it ready” routine — washing, waxing, dewinterizing etc. don’t know if I have 8 more years in me :).
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Oh yeah...I was feeling it yesterday, too. Washing and wiping all the black rubber and plastics with the UV protect stuff. The stiffness is such a pain, but I just push through b/c there's nothing better for it than to just keep moving.

I finally caulked the kitchen sink. A thick layer of that silicone, '10 year mold free' stuff, by GE. It's not the prettiest of jobs, but hopefully it'll save/protect the particle board countertop, from the crappy lifting Thermofoil for at least a few seasons. I did prep the area with painters tape, in order to not make a total mess of it.
 
I finally broke down and got new tires. Got them from Discount Tire and had their mobile tech install them in my driveway. Replaced the original Goodyear Endurance with the same. The old tires had a date code of 0517. The new tires date code is 0925. Even though the tread on the old tires looked good, with a 3,000 mile trip to Acadia coming up, I didn't want to take a chance on eight year old tires.
 
JudyK-JAY22rb said:
Oh yeah...I was feeling it yesterday, too. Washing and wiping all the black rubber and plastics with the UV protect stuff. The stiffness is such a pain, but I just push through b/c there's nothing better for it than to just keep moving.

I finally caulked the kitchen sink. A thick layer of that silicone, '10 year mold free' stuff, by GE. It's not the prettiest of jobs, but hopefully it'll save/protect the particle board countertop, from the crappy lifting Thermofoil for at least a few seasons. I did prep the area with painters tape, in order to not make a total mess of it.
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You know the old saying, "without pictures it did not happen. " And we can't see it from here." So today is your lucky day. What a fine job, or so says me, built for duty not beauty. :cool: That's what I tell people all the time. If you get grief, feel free to use that on them.:)
 
Actually last night. I tracked down and labeled all the wires in the front cargo hold. I was able to determine all but one, which is think is for slide 2, but I only have one slide. I now have a new inquiry, I would have expected my breakaway switch to be powered directly from the battery, somehow bypassing the disconnect. Not sure where it getting power from. Next search.
 
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We had a few days in the Alante. It got kind of cold, so since I had never used the furnace, and the previous owner that drove it 4500 miles, I turned it on and it started right up. Smelled horrible but it worked. Time passed and it got cold again. Tstat was up? Turned off and on. Motor but no start. Did it 3 more times. Motor for 30 seconds and stopped.
So, yesterday I went out and took the cover off of the furnace. Having watched numerous videos, I was very sure the sail switch had failed but knew what and where to check. Mmmm this Atwood is different than any I saw in videos. So, I put the exhaust tube in, walked around and set the Tstat. It lit before I could get to it. Let it run for a minute. Turned it off with the switch, and back on. Nothing. Did Tstat again, started and ignited before I could get there. Decided to let it run a little. Then I saw the problem. The two blue Tstat wires came into the controls area directly above the exhaust tube and were laying on it. Pulled the melted wires off and apart. Put electrical tape on both and taped them up to a wire above. Tested and worked. Put on cover and left. Today, it would not work at all. So, I took off the exhaust tube and the cover. I forgot to turn the switch to reset. Very weird! I could not see the other side of the switch. It is two positions. OFF & RESET. Anyway, works great now and smell is gone!
 
Sanitized the FW tank and lines per my usual spring ritual. Poured the bleach/water solution in and filled the FW tank. Then flipped the pump on to run it through the faucets. It came out fine and I smelled for the bleach. But the pump didn’t shut off when I closed the faucet. Doh! Sure enough, the outside shower faucets were open. I did this last year as I recall, but, hey, 12 months is a long time ago…

It was a fruitful day — torqued the lug nuts, tightened under carriage nuts, topped off the batteries, fixed a squeak caused by some loose plastic door molding and cleaned the stab jack threads and lubed them with Tri Flow dry lube (thanks to Jagiven for the tip about this stuff back in 2014!)
 
I went into it, turned on the furnace, listened for ignition, it did, turned it off and went back into the house.
It was an exciting time!
 
LuckyDuck said:
I considered that, but unfortunately it’s not the MOST boneheaded thing I’ve done! And it’s becoming an annual tradition LOL.
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May as well just go ahead and add it in as a line-item on your check list:

"-fill tank with bleach solution
-engage pump to distribute bleach solution throughout lines
-remember that you didn't cut off the outdoor shower..."
 
Camper_bob said:
May as well just go ahead and add it in as a line-item on your check list:

"-fill tank with bleach solution
-engage pump to distribute bleach solution throughout lines
-remember that you didn't cut off the outdoor shower..."
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:) Added thusly:

4. Close all faucets AND outdoor shower.
 
Yesterday I pulled all the hubs, cleaned/inspected the brakes and repacked the wheel bearings. Today I took it around the 50 mile loop to check brake operation, verify hub temps were good and torque the lug nuts. Mechanically it's ready to head north on the next trip in June. This also allowed me to test charging the new LI battery bank with the DC-DC charger.
 
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