Wiring problem with my Whitehawk 32KBS.

[theweeklys]

The lights in the living/dining slideout do not work. Just happened 2 days ago. Fuse is ok. The work off 2 separate switches (one for living area and one for dining area). Can't figure out problem. Anyone else have this problem.

 

[dora-XRD]

You may have a loose wire in the light switch box. Do you have the means to test for 12 VDC with a non contact tester or multimeter. If so, pull the cover off the switch box and use your non-contact tester to see if there’s 12 VDC in that box. If there is then Open the breaker for that circuit and pull on all the wires to see if they’re loose under any wire nuts and if they’re stuck in any of the little holes in the back of the switches. Wires stuck in little holes in the back of receptacles and switches eventually come loose. If they’re loose, remove them and wrap them around the screws on the sides. Let us know what you find. Good luck.

 

[Kevin Cooper]

I would be looking for a junction box or maybe just a splice of a cable going from the slide out to the coach. They are not normally done without splices at that point.

 

[theweeklys]

You may have a loose wire in the light switch box. Do you have the means to test for 12 VDC with a non contact tester or multimeter. If so, pull the cover off the switch box and use your non-contact tester to see if there’s 12 VDC in that box. If there is then Open the breaker for that circuit and pull on all the wires to see if they’re loose under any wire nuts and if they’re stuck in any of the little holes in the back of the switches. Wires stuck in little holes in the back of receptacles and switches eventually come loose. If they’re loose, remove them and wrap them around the screws on the sides. Let us know what you find. Good luck.

Thanks for replying. Since there is two switches controlling two sets of lights I wonder if the problem could be between the fuse box and the switches. I do need one of those no contact meters though. I am 86 and cant get down and under to check wires. Trying to find someone to work on rv is harder. Was hoping for a very simple solution. I have contacted Jayco for a wiring schematic. Thank you.

 

[theweeklys]

I would be looking for a junction box or maybe just a splice of a cable going from the slide out to the coach. They are not normally done without splices at that point.

Thank you for replying. This is my thoughts too. Contacted Jayco for schematic. Found an RV repairman hopefully. Maybe can have it repaired soon. Thanks.

 

[Kevin Cooper]

Suggest you do Google search for RV Mobile Tech near me.

 

[dora-XRD]

Normally power coming into the switch box will go to the first switch and then jumpered over to the other switch to supply power to it as well. If there's power coming into the switch box then there's probably a loose wire where it connects to the first switch. I would be surprized if there's a hidden junction box somewhere but hey it is an RV so anythings possible. I'd also be surprized if a schematic diagram indicated one as they're never that detailed and usually just show the circuit and not the routing. Hopefully your repair tech can figure it out for you and let us know how it goes.

 

[theweeklys]

Thanks for info. Gotta get a non contact meter and test the switches.

 

[Kevin Cooper]

Thanks for info. Gotta get a non contact meter and test the switches.

I’m not an expert in electric meters or devices, but I have not seen any non contact DC testers. If you need an electric meter, I would suggest you get one like this. It does clamp on amps for AC and DC. Some others look the same, but will only do clamp on AC amps. Testing 12 vdc is not dangerous at all for this issue.
Link: KAIWEETS Digital Clamp Meter Multimeter with D-Shaped Jaw for AC/DC Current & Voltage, Auto-ranging 4000 Counts Voltage Tester with Flashlight Backlight, Measuring Temperature Continuity Diode NCV https://a.co/d/3RRepqB