Convert pantry shelves to draws in 338rets

[JohnWedell]

Finally finished the conversion.

[pconroy]

Nice work! I did a similar conversion in our old motorhome. I had to come up with some creative ways to keep the full extension slides from kicking the pantry door open on tight turns.

[JEFF1963]

Like a big bungee cord?!

[JohnWedell]

Originally Posted by pconroy

Nice work! I did a similar conversion in our old motorhome. I had to come up with some creative ways to keep the full extension slides from kicking the pantry door open on tight turns.

These are RV stay closed slides
https://www.wwhardware.com/kv-8400-r...ure-kv8400-brv

[DanNJanice]

Looks good!
We are thinking about doing something similar. Just curious, what was the inside dimension (width) of the shelves after you had finished?

[wags999]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Looks good!
We are thinking about doing something similar. Just curious, what was the inside dimension (width) of the shelves after you had finished?

Your slides would take up 1" (1/2" each side) less the side thickness of the drawer. I would suggest going with Baltic Birch drawer sides and bottom...1/2" on the sides and 1/4" on the bottoms. Your drawer ID would be approximately 2" smaller than the opening. I have done this to several Rv's, also changed wardrobe to shelves, 1/2" BB is very strong and attractive material. Dado the drawer sides to receive the floor for additional strength.

Happy Camping, nice job.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by wags999

Your slides would take up 1" (1/2" each side) less the side thickness of the drawer.

Happy Camping, nice job.

This might clarify the question - but a rough estimate is measuring the width of the opening and then subtract the 1" for the slides. It depends on how you mount the slides/

I built a carcase inside so I could make the drawers just about the full width of the door opening. I got my Blum/KV knockoff slides from CS Hardware.

Ball Bearing Drawer Slides | Custom Service Hardware

[blujay40]

Darn it John!!! Now I gotta figure out a way to keep the DW off of this site until your post falls off the first couple of pages or I will have yet another project added to my "honey do list"!

[Brownie]

I did the same thing to my pantry. My pantry is next to my entry door. I discovered (unfortunately, after I had them installed in the top section) that the pantry door hit the hard valance above my entry door, and wouldn't open more than about 80*. That meant I couldn't pull out the roll-out trays. Had to take the valance off the entry door & all is good, now. Had planned to put a roll-out waste basket in the bottom section of the pantry, but that door hits the handle on the screen door. Can't remove that, so the bottom section became a handy spot to keep the large container of dog food.


As for loosing storage width due to the drawer glides and drawer-side thickness: yes, you loose some shelf width. But with the standard stationary shelves, you can't see, reach, or remove the stuff in the back of the pantry. The roll-outs give you complete access to the entire space, so you actually gain storage space.

Nice job, John!

[Allen_C]

I did something similar in my new Class A. I used a single under drawer bearing slide though since the shelf is so narrow. The slides I got from Menards are stiff so they will not move accidentally. I left the front open and only installed 3/4" rails on the back and sides to keep the contents on shelf visible. Total cost was only about $55.

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by Brownie

Snip


As for loosing storage width due to the drawer glides and drawer-side thickness: yes, you loose some shelf width. But with the standard stationary shelves, you can't see, reach, or remove the stuff in the back of the pantry. The roll-outs give you complete access to the entire space, so you actually gain storage space.

Nice job, John!

Yes, that is what I am thinking too.
On my pantry the "wall to wall" ID is about 12.5". After I lose about 2" on one side and 1" on the other for the stiles. Then another 1" for the slides I am down to about 8.5" in width. I have thought about trimming the stiles, but not sure yet if I can do this without damaging them.

[troutslayer]

Very nice!

[wags999]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Yes, that is what I am thinking too.
On my pantry the "wall to wall" ID is about 12.5". After I lose about 2" on one side and 1" on the other for the stiles. Then another 1" for the slides I am down to about 8.5" in width. I have thought about trimming the stiles, but not sure yet if I can do this without damaging them.

Probably not worth all the effort, since if you cut down too much the door will not cover the opening. Don't have my rv here but don't think the over lay is more than 1/2".

[Big1]

I like that new setup.

[DaveT]

What was the method used to attache the glides to the pantry walls. the walls are so thin...

David

[JohnWedell]

Originally Posted by DaveT

What was the method used to attache the glides to the pantry walls. the walls are so thin...

David

I built a H frame and screwed the slides to it. Some may say it's overkill but it's rock solid.

[troutslayer]

Originally Posted by JohnWedell

I built a H frame and screwed the slides to it. Some may say it's overkill but it's rock solid.

Cool. Looks like you have roller catches in the back to prevent from sliding outward??? or is that roller catch for the door...nevermind .

[JohnWedell]

Originally Posted by troutslayer

Cool. Looks like you have roller catches in the back to prevent from sliding outward??? or is that roller catch for the door...nevermind .

The slides are a special RV slides. A spring holds the slide closed when driving

[DaveT]

Originally Posted by JohnWedell

I built a H frame and screwed the slides to it. Some may say it's overkill but it's rock solid.

Did you screw into that through the side walls, or attach your frame onto the "studs" running vertically?

[Camper_bob]

Those look absolutely fantastic!

I've been putting off that project for a while, looks like I'm going to have to move it to the top of the "list".