When attaching the Reese HP Dual Cam frame plate to a tube style TT A-frame (Jayco standard) Reese recommends using the supplied "flanged head thread forming screws" to mount the frame plate. Well, after 6 years of use one of the screws just won't stay tight, no matter how often I torque the screw back down (50ft-lbs). I've also noticed a witness mark suggesting that the frame plate may be moving a little when the screw loosens.... not good.
I guess my 1,200lb loaded tongue weight is winning this battle, so looks like I'm going to drill through the A-frame tube and use bolts/nuts in lieu of the thread forming screws. This way I won't find myself in a situation with a WDH frame plate failure.
Side view of Reese HP Dual Cam frame plate attached to my TT A-frame with existing thread forming screws:
I made up two new backer plates each 1/4" x 6" x 6", drilling two 17/32" diameter clearance holes in-line with the clearance holes on the Reese frame plate. The backer plate will insure that the TT A-frame tube won't collapse when I tighten the new bolts/nuts. My A-frame is 6" tall, so the 6" tall backer plate will rest firmly against the upper/lower radius corners of the A-frame tube which is the strongest part of the tube.
I'm using 1/2" x 3 1/2"lg grade 8 bolts/nuts which will insure that nothing will move once they are tightened down. I plan to install them when I pull my TT out of storage in the next few weeks, then will have to drill a few more 17/32" diameter clearance holes through the A-frame tube. Frame plate backer plates are painted and ready to go:
A few years ago I used the backer plate method to bolt my snap-up brackets in place to eliminate any potential issues with them do to my heavy tongue weight. The following pic shows my snap-up backer plate installed:
My Reese HP Dual Cam has preformed extremely well over the years, and has been a reliable source of sway control whenever a sway event occurred.