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Old 05-17-2011, 02:35 AM   #21
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The best I seem to do is about 12 mpg, tow haul on at 63 mph with 3.73 gears.
Both the truck and the fiver are heavy beasts. The worst I got was 9 mpg heading back from San Antonio on I-10 fighting 30 mph headwinds all the way.
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:31 PM   #22
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Diesel or Gasser?
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:03 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seann45 View Post
ONE WORD... BULLYDOG.... get their power programer for you vehicle/engine you will see results.. that is if you can keep your foot out of it....
I have a Edge programmer and have not been impressed with it. I'm using it for economy and I must say I see no real mpg savings since I reprogramed my 6.4 L ford PS. I did put a airade air filter on and saw a 2mpg fuel increase immediately
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:03 PM   #24
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I am guessing by keeping the big block tuned up, tire pressures appropiate and everything properly greased, its about the best I will do, if any of those gimmicks worked I see out there you wouldn't have to buy them off of TV!!! lol...
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2003 Suburban 2500 (8.1L)
True Flow Intake
Magnaflow Catback
Curt XD Class 5
2012 Jayco Eagle 314 BDS Super Lite
Atwood Heavy Duty 3500 Tongue Jack
12K Eq-ua-lizer
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:43 AM   #25
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The modern engine is all computer controlled so optimizing engine fuel efficiency requires that all sensors, injectors, exhaust and intake components be functioning as designed. I have found that for gas engines this means that O2 sensors, MAF, and often injectors need to be working properly. An O2 sensor will only throw a code when expected values are not met. I have read that O2 sensors will deteriorate over time and will require replacement. Exhaust leaks, intake leaks will also lead to mis-information being fed the the PCM which may affect mileage.

For Diesel's (or at least the 6.0 Ford / International) much of the same is true. Injectors, sensors (IPC, MAF, EBP etc) exhaust leaks, and latest calibrations will affect mileage. I have seen vast differences with the 6.0 from 15mpg highway to 22mpg (I usually get 21).

Once the engine is running efficiently within expected parameters, a programer could be helpful to optimize your engine. Check forums for the programmers that work well for your application, an example is the Bully Dog previously mentioned does not play well with the 6.0 Ford.

Oil and other fluids. I never appreciated the impact of a good quality oil until I owned an engine which literately runs on oil. Find the oil that helps you optimize your engine performance. For me, and my 6.0 5w-40 Synthetic (Rotella T6 or Mobile 1 diesel) work the best. Good oil does cost more, but engine performance, longevity and mileage will benefit. Easy on the fuel additives especially with gas engines. Many older diesels (pre 1997) can benefit from Cetain boost with extra lubrication) but the newer engines do not need them.

Once your engine is running properly and optimized, move onto your drivetrain. Transmission fluids (and proper operation of the trans), axle fluids will also affect mileage (ok not a whole lot but a little bit). Tires. The proper tire for your application as well as proper inflation will really go a long way. Part of my mileage is the use of a good quality tire which is properly inflated.

And finally driving habits. Is that ole' foot of yours a little heavy? Do you need to get to the top of the hill before the Toyota next to you? Does getting to the camp site 20 minutes ahead of schedule matter that much? Do you really need to pass the car who is doing 64 in a 65? All old school things, but if you keep your foot out of it you will save fuel.

If all the above are done, you will have maximized your mileage then it comes down to it is what it is. Diesel's get better mileage than gas, but the maintenance $$'s are higher, so you have to pick where you're going to pay. I have no experience with air deflectors except to say that they will kill your mileage when not towing.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:22 AM   #26
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My last long trip I averaged out at 12 mpg. Thats rolling at about 23000 pounds, on a big highway with not alot of hill climbing, little wind. Since that trip I have removed around 1000 pounds from the truck, added a chip, removed the cat and muffler and run straight pipe. Added K N filters.

Engine feels better, better throttle response and turbo spooling. Sweet spot for towing on my setup is right around 105. 4.23 rear end gearing, stump puller, gives me really good power in overdrive.

My powerstroke is a 1995 though, less power than the new ones, I figure with the chip on setting 2, I am just shy of 300 hp. Putting the trailer into a spot, I can spin the tires on dirt, thats with 3500 pounds on the pin, and 580 pounds of water on the truck and a genny that weighs 400 pounds. Once that turbo spools up, the power comes right on.

It helps too, that I had the transmission redone/rebuilt heavy for my application. I bought a 40 foot triple axle Cardinal a few years back, went to pick it up and it had been sitting on the grass for 4 years, tires were half sunk into the ground. I pinned up and put my foot into it, did not budge the trailer. Triple axle trailer sunk into the grass is a hard pull no matter what you got for a truck, anyhow, tried a second time, put my foot right to the floor, turbo spooled up and after about 10 seconds it started pulling the trailer out. I was waiting for u joint to snap, or the tranny to fail, but nope.

Best way to save money for gas and travelling, forego the round of coffee's and fatteners at Tim Hortons, don't go out for lunch, but make sandwiches instead. Go to local campgrounds in your area to cut down your travelling expenses. Forego that extra case of beer. Ok scratch that last one. Travel at a prudent speed and take your time, if its a 3 hour trip, budget for 3 1/2 hours. Travel later in the day/night if possible, cooler temps and less traffic. Unfortunately, higher fuel prices are here to stay, were all gonna have to bite the bullet on this one, u wanna go camping and pull a house your gonna pay. Innovative and frugal living means, affordable fuel for funtimes.

Thats the key reason I don't replace my truck with a new one with a payment. My truck is a 95 with 240 k, would not hesitate to haul my fiver on a long extended trip, its in good shape. No payment and cheaper to insure versus a new one. Fuel costs in my situation have less of a impact.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:40 AM   #27
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Good points coalrig. I`m guessing you have the legendary 7.3l engine. Some crab trucks here with truck bodies on them for hauling had those in them, seemed you could not wear them out. The trucks fell apart before the engines. The 6.0`s on the other hand.....
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