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Old 03-24-2015, 06:12 AM   #1
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Octane 273 fuel station question

Can anyone with an Octane with a fuel station tell me the proper procedure for turning it on? I already had to remove the fill nozzle and replace it with a ball valve and nipples. The brass plunger pin was corroded because the compartment bottom is open mesh and road salt gets up in there. (unit is brand new BTW). I still cant get the pump to come on. I checked one fuse in the converter area. That was ok. There is a momentary switch on the inside switch panel next to the fuel gauge. I tried that and the emergency shut off switch near the pump is on. Thanks
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Old 04-04-2015, 04:38 PM   #2
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Well.......I wont be worrying about it anymore. I ran a wire from the battery on tongue to the pump in back and it works. I also ordered a 25' length of 3/4" fuel hose and I'm going to run it from the pump up to the tongue so I can fill the genny thats there. I'll post up some pics when its done.
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:42 PM   #3
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I have not even tried my fuel pump yet but I need to. I think you are the second person to say they had issues on new trailers.
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Old 06-30-2016, 08:15 PM   #4
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Fuel Station Issues

Have 2014 Octane 161. Recent trip finally filled up fueling station as we were having to use a portal generator. Get on site and guess what isn't working. Also just went out of warranty. Turn on switch inside the camper and nothing. No reading on the fuel gauge and nothing at the pump. Checked fuse which according to the panel is on same circuit as the jack bed which works. Pulled panel to check that connections were good there as well as at the pump.

Short of buying an ohm meter and checking things from end to end, any suggestions?
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Old 06-30-2016, 11:02 PM   #5
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I have a 2016 T30F and on the control panel there is a switch to turn the station on. The switch at the pump is an emergency shut off. O. The panel once for on and twice for off.
Hope this helps.
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:44 AM   #6
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VOM's are a must have tool for a rv. Get one, it will save you a lot of headaches down the road..
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:01 PM   #7
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I ran across this thread while trying to see if anyone else is having the same problem I am with the fuel station on my 2015 Octane T32C.

I've never actually gotten it to run and since I was doing the periodic exercising of the generator, I figured I dig into it and see what I could find.

If you have the same gauge and fuel station switch setup as I do (likely), unscrew the gauge panel. Gently pull it out including the wires and you should find the 15 minute timer module and a 5A automotive fuse wired into the circuit before the gauge and fuel station switch. I'll bet it's blown.

I haven't tracked down exactly *WHY* it's blown, but when I tried to put a new 5A fuse in there, it blew the second it made contact. So, I removed the 15min timer module, in theory removing the fuel station itself from the equation, inserted another fuse and it blew again. So, it's probably the gauge since I think the fuel tank selection switch is momentary and shouldn't have been sending. I was out of 5A fuses and it was starting to get late, so I decided to pack it in. I'll probably start fresh tomorrow with a big pack of 5A switches, disconnect everything and start reconnecting things until the fuse blows, which should point me at the culprit.

Given that I had to fix a mis-wiring in my generator panel (hour meter only ran when starting up but not when the generator was actually running; and "on" light on the switch wouldn't light), if it's not the gauge, it wouldn't surprise me to find that something is mis-wired in this panel either.

My dealer is *just* far enough away it doesn't make sense for the 8-10 hours of driving (two four to five hour round trips) and two tanks of diesel it takes to bring it down there for them to deal with.

<sigh>

If I do get to the bottom of it, I'll try to remember to come back and post the solution, in case it might help others.
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:16 PM   #8
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I haven't had any issues with mine. My operation is
1- push the momentary switch on the panel once to energize the system
2- At the fuel station, pull the red knob to turn on the pump, filling the ATV or container
3- Push the red knob back in to turn off the pump.
4- Go back inside and push the momentary switch twice to turn things off

I found a neoprene sock on E-Bay that was designed to slip over the dispensing nozzle while it is not being used to keep dirt and critters out of the nozzle, works really well. I do seem to get a quick shot of slightly darker fuel at first from it sitting in the hose but it doesn't seem to affect anything.

Ross.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:09 PM   #9
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As far as my constantly blowing fuse, I'm still not 100% sure what was causing that. When I opened the panel today and inserted the new fuse, everything worked properly. I did re-seat some of the connectors, but that shouldn't have affected anything (maybe things working or not, but not a short). I was also incorrect about the fuse location. It is *NOT* in front of the timer/fuel station circuit, just the gauge.

I believe the fuse blowing was a short because of how the installer did the wiring. It's the only thing out of the ordinary, and I think the end must have come into contact with something grounded.


Umm, Jayco, we need to talk.. That's not how you use those connectors, nor is it the proper connection for this purpose. I taped them up so they can't cause any more problems.

For the fuel station, I called it right yesterday. It was a mis-wiring. Here is a shot of 15 Minute timer module:

If you look carefully, you'll notice that the label says: 1-Trigger, 2-Load, 3-12 VDC, 4-Ground. Unfortunately, the installer didn't wire it that way. He/she attached the blue wire to the 12VDC, and the Red to the load (Fuel Station pump), so there was no way for the module to get power to close the relay.

I removed the timer module, shorted the red/blue together and heard the fuel station for the first time since we got it, so confirmed it worked.

Swapping the blue/red connections was a little complicated because of how they wired things, so I decided to swap them at the connector. I created a small shim out of an aluminum can and was able to push it over the connector conductor to collapse the retaining prongs and pull the wire out. Once the blue/red wires were swapped - voila!. The relay in the timer module now turns on/off as it should with a quiet but audible click. I also went around to the fuel station, pulled the e-stop and verified it works as well.



Now a pet peeve I had to directly deal with while fixing this. I'm constantly amazed that these manufacturers don't seem to understand what type of screw to use for what application. They always use these flat head screws in non-countersunk applications, like so:



That's not the right application for this type of screw. Since it's attaching something flat to the edge of something else, it should be either a round/button-head screw like a short pocket-hole style screws they use everywhere else, they should counter-sink it or they should use a trim washer like this:

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Old 08-21-2016, 06:20 PM   #10
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Good catch, I can't imagine how long it would take a service tech to trace that or how many parts they would replace trying. It's a shame that peace work trailer assembly, and quality workmanship are at opposite ends of the spectrum and in my belief can never co-exist, one contradicts the other.

Ross..
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