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Old 04-25-2016, 09:56 PM   #1
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Seneca air horns and air fill

One of the things I was disappointed with on my Seneca is the really wimpy electric horn. My Focus toad has a far better stock horn! So I embarked on a mission to make things better by installing a set of real air horns. Since our Senecas have an onboard air system I decided to tap into it to accomplish the horns. And while I was at it I also decided to add an air accessory air port so I could fill my own tires or for whatever else I might need compressed air for.

To accomplish the air side I installed a 2.5 gallon auxiliary air tank fed from the chassis "wet" tank through a pressure protection valve. That valve is to ensure that the horn and air fill can never completely deplete the main air system. Then I ran an air line out of the new tank to the air horn mounting location on the right frame rail near the hood hinge. There the air line tees into the air fill regulator and to the horns themselves. Out of the regulator I have a female air quick disconnect. The horns are also mounted here behind the bumper for protection.

To operate the horns I still use the regular steering wheel horn button, but the circuit goes through a dash-mounted Electric/Air horns switch. So I can select either horn I want; a gentle electric "beep", or the sound of a locomotive bearing down! The selector switch is genuine Freightliner used on an American LaFrance fire truck, matches the other dash switches perfectly. I used the same switch connector on the back of the switch that Freightliner uses, so the wiring looks like the factory did it.

To view more pictures of the components please see the album here: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...lbums1069.html
Attached Thumbnails
Air horns and air regulator.jpg   Electric-Air horn switch.jpg   Regulator close up.jpg  
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File Type: pdf Air horn parts list and links.pdf (129.8 KB, 55 views)
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Old 10-08-2016, 06:14 PM   #2
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Hi Rob. I want to add air horns as well. I made an extra hole and ordered the switch when I was making the hole for the sideview camera OPT switch.

Couple questions:

1) Where did you pick-up the OEM/stock horn wires to route them back to the horn selection switch on the dash? I'm assuming the wiring that goes from the horn button to the horn now will need to go from the horn to the switch. Then the switch is connected to both horns. Right?

2) I haven't looked at the OEM/stock air tank yet. How and where did you tap into it? Did you put a T in the line or add a port to the tank?

Thanks.
Andy
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Old 10-08-2016, 08:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shultz01 View Post
Hi Rob. I want to add air horns as well. I made an extra hole and ordered the switch when I was making the hole for the sideview camera OPT switch.

Couple questions:

1) Where did you pick-up the OEM/stock horn wires to route them back to the horn selection switch on the dash? I'm assuming the wiring that goes from the horn button to the horn now will need to go from the horn to the switch. Then the switch is connected to both horns. Right?

Absolutely correct. I removed the harness from the stock electric horn and cut the positive lead a few inches from the connection. From the new horn selector switch I ran three (3) 14-gauge leads through the firewall bulkhead grommet assembly back out to horn area following existing wiring harnesses. I used 3 different color wires to keep the leads separate. The horn "+ feed" from the original horn connection (that I cut) feeds into the center terminal of one side of the new switch. The other two wires connect above and below that connection on the switch, one ties back into the horn connection and the other goes to wherever your air horn solenoid will be located. I ran the new wires in black wire loom like Freightliner did, it is indistinguishable from factory wiring.


2) I haven't looked at the OEM/stock air tank yet. How and where did you tap into it? Did you put a T in the line or add a port to the tank?

On the end of the stock air tank there was a fitting and 1/4" air line leading to the engine's clutch fan. (it's air-actuated). I put a air brake brass tee there reinstalling the original fan clutch line in one side of the tee, the other side is where I installed the new pressure protection valve. Then from the pressure protection valve I ran a new nylon air brake-rated line to my auxiliary air tank which I mounted near the coach battery area. Then out of the air tank I ran a line to the new horn/air regulator area. I got my fittings and air line from a local NAPA heavy truck parts store here in town. They had everything I needed fitting-wise.

The pressure protection valve (PPV) protects the truck's stock air system from ever being depleted due to overuse or leakage in the newly installed air system. It will close off if the main air tank gets to about 70-75 psi. I also installed a pressure relief valve in the new tank (165 psi) and a moisture drain valve on the bottom.

Some might say the second air tank and PPV are overkill, but I wanted to make sure things were as safe and reliable as possible.


Thanks.
Andy
I can get pictures underneath if that would help!
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:22 AM   #4
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Thanks Rob! Much appreciated. The horn description says it includes a "valve" which is 12V--assuming that's a solenoid which is visible in the picture you posted of the parts needed. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks again, Andy
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:45 AM   #5
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The solenoid was part of the horn assembly I sourced, but not all do come with one. Some horns I saw when shopping did not have one in case you were just replacing them on a big rig and already had a hand lanyard or existing solenoid.
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:11 PM   #6
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That's AWESOME Rob!!
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:12 PM   #7
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That's AWESOME ROB!!!! Great job.
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:11 PM   #8
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A Picture's Worth 1000 Words

Rob.

If you're willing to take pictures of underneath--that would be great. I haven't gone under yet to see where the stock tank is located and about mounting the auxiliary one near the coach batteries location. So pictures would be a big help.

I split the electric horn wire today and ran it into the cab to the dash and back out to the horn. I ran the wire for the air horn with it and will continue this wire out to where the air horn will be. I thought horn would be in the front near the bumper--but it was up on the firewall above the engine.

Thanks.
Andy
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:51 AM   #9
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Just crawled under this morning. It looks like there is a Tee there already. One side is the fan clutch like you said and the other side is a relief valve. I just need to put a tee on the tee and I'm all set.
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Old 10-10-2016, 03:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shultz01 View Post
Just crawled under this morning. It looks like there is a Tee there already. One side is the fan clutch like you said and the other side is a relief valve. I just need to put a tee on the tee and I'm all set.
That is what I did, put a smaller tee into the existing larger one.

To mount my new air tank I fabricated two brackets out of 1.5" x 1/8" steel flat stock forming them into a "J". The throat of the "J" was calculated to allow the "J" to rest on the frame rail (did not want to drill and weaken it) and then the bracket extended under, and bolted to, the battery slideout tray fixed mount. The new air tank then hangs upside down and bolts to the two "J" brackets. I had to be careful and offset the brackets and the holes to mount the tank since the spacing of the air tank's holes and the battery tray mounts are slightly different. After installation I undercoated everything, and I had even painted the "J" brackets before installing to help them last.

Here are some pictures with some callouts pointing out the details. Hope they help.
Attached Thumbnails
Air tank connections.jpg   New air tank mounting.jpg   New air tank from front.jpg  
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