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Old 04-02-2015, 05:04 AM   #11
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jeffersonville
Posts: 27
I definitely agree with the above comments re: getting a bettery battery. I hope my info on the desulfators (which was meant as a general info posting for when people find this thread) wasn't taken as arguing against the fact that starter batteries make bad deep cycle batteries. Marine combo batteries are slightly better than, say, automotive batteries for non-crankiong discharges as they're expected to run loads like bilg epumps and such when the engine is down but there's no shore power, but they're not designed for longer duration deeper discharges or the longer idle periods that trailers/RVs suffer through, especially in off the grid camping. The generic group 24 combo batteries 'work' but their biggest advantage is they're cheap and available at any big box store or car parts house. The downside is you definitely swap them more often and the conditions which will kill them are much easier to enter than for better quality batteries. If you have a coach that can handle the weight, flooded deep cycle batteries will last the longest of the traditional lead acid style (if you can prevent them from freezing or drying out during charge/discharge, which are their most dangerous conditions), followed by the sealed long duration AGMs (which can handle unattended periods and freezing temps better), then high quality true deep cycle general lead acid batteries, then you get to the generic deep cycle, then combo, then starter batteries. The cost per battery is higher at the upper end but the lifespan and endurance of each is also much different than combo or starter batteries, by multiples of the usable capacity of the combo or starter batteries.

If you own or can borrow a battery already and it's recoverable then desulfation can be worthwhile to give it a shot, was the only point I was aiming for And if you have other batteries that might sit or which you want to max their lifespan and have not had a good charger to use anyway, then you can still use the charger/desulfator in the future (even on new batteries) which might make it a good investment. Mine get used constantly, either on my own not-in-use batteries or where folks borrow it to recover batteries their charger can't bring back or replace the capacity their chargers aren't able to get them due to plate surface conditions.

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Old 04-03-2015, 12:32 PM   #12
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: London
Posts: 127
Well I had gave up on the battery as it wouldn't take charge the first day. I let it sit a day and just plugged it up again and the charger jumped up to 75 %. I let it charge on trickle about 3 hours and it was 100%. I stuck it in and have been testing it here at home and so far so good. I turned on all the lights and Tv and DVD on this morning and it's been running for almost 5 hours as of now. Still working the Atwood power jack so I may be good for what little I use it. What I need is some sort of gauge to hook up on the battery box.

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Old 04-03-2015, 01:10 PM   #13
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 2,378
The only way you can check that battery is to see if it is OK is by checking the specific gravity of each cell. The manufacture will have the number on their website somewhere or contact their support group for the information. Autozone or other automotive parts stores have the hydrometer and they are inexpensive. If the cells are not near the same, get a new battery. Call the parts store and see if they will do the SG test for you, safer that way. How is the water level in each of the cells? All equal?

The problem is once a regular battery is brought to "0" volts it has already done the damage. The battery voltage is a reference point, but you also need to somehow check the temperature of the battery while charging. If it has a bad cell the TT's charge controller could keep trying to charge the battery to try and get it to 100% charge, which will never happen and it will boil the battery acid in the battery, which could create other issues.

Personally, I would dump the current battery and pick up an entry level size 24 RV/Marine battery (Interstate is fine). It will be well worth the investment, and peace of mind not having to constantly worry about it.

Here is an inexpensive voltage display that plugs into your 12VDC accessory port in the TT, it should do the trick.

Just my thoughts,

Attached Thumbnails
12VDC Voltage Display.jpg  

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