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Old 06-29-2016, 08:30 AM   #11
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newark
Posts: 499
Here's an easy trick to find power loss. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery, and hook a test light between the end of the cable and the positive post of the battery. If there is any draw, the test light will light up, although it may be dim if the parasitic draw is small. If you want to find which circuit is drawing, pull the fuses one at a time, 'till the test light goes out. Works every time for me.

2012 Jay Flight 19RD
2010 Tundra TRD DBL Cab
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Old 07-02-2016, 04:08 PM   #12
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Decatur
Posts: 422
OK, I think I have all this wiring figured out.
I'll repost the drawing from above:

Here's what I figured out - and some of it's crazy . . .
Of the two small orange wires, one is (as I suspected) the power feed for the review camera prewiring. The other Orange wire - which is wired to the SAME connector - is power to the breakaway switch. Note that there are TWO auto reset breakers between the battery and the breakaway switch - not ideal.

Numbers below relate to the photo above:
?1 is the 12v charge line from the 7 way connector (TV)

?2 is power to the Schwintech Slide Controller for the front slide.

?3 is a charge line from the front Solar prep connector of the front of the RV.

?4 is the only think I'm not 100% about but I'm pretty sure it's the charge line from the prewire location for the roof solar. ie. it comes from the location prewired for the charge controller.

SO - there are two problems with this wiring:
1) the aforementioned breakaway switch. I cut that wire free of the other orange wire, put another connector on it and hooked it to the wire directly from the Battery.

2) BOTH the Schwintech controller and the LevelUp controller are wired to the battery side of the cutoff switch. This means they are connected even with the switch is open. Why is this a problem? Because neither one of them is ever completely 'off'. If you put a meter on these lines you'll find the each draw about 0.05 amps for a total of 0.1 amps on average.
THAT is why my battery was going down.
SO I moved the jumper from the breaker that feeds these two lines over to the switched side of the disconnect.
Now I have 0.0 amp draw when the disconnect switch is off. YEA.

It was getting towards dusk when I took the photo below so it's not as clear - you'll notice I got 'anal' with labeling all my wires. If you look close you'll also notice the shut bar on the negative battery wire for the volt / amp meter (see another post).
Click image for larger version

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Buddy Ray - Atlanta
Jayco Eagle HT 26.5RLS
Ford F150 Lariat, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost
Max Tow Pkg, 36gal tank
Reese Sidewinder and Reese Titan 16k hitch
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