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10-30-2016, 01:32 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Jonesboro
Posts: 10
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Shore power, yes. Generator, no.
Remember Roseanne Rosannadanna? "It's always something. If it's not one thing, it's another!" Still trying to get my neglected motorhome back in running condition. Generator would not run. Today I reinstalled the now squeaky-clean carburetor and it purred . . . no hint of a surge. I waited about 5 minutes and then decided to run it for awhile under load. When I went inside, there was no AC. Now, my old RV had a master plug which either went into the generator output box or shore power. Foolproof. My new RV has an automatic transfer switch somewhere in the power system. Generator is always connected unless plugged into shore power. I checked the obvious things: generator and RV circuit breakers. Either the generator is running but not getting power to the system, or the transfer switch is not working properly. I guess the first step is to measure the generator output, but I'm not sure how. It's an Onan Microquiet 4000 (4KY). Also, I had to clean out a rat's nest from the generator housing, but there didn't seem to be any visible damage, and no signs of any chewed wiring elsewhere.
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10-30-2016, 01:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,119
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If the stator rings are corroded you won't get any output either. That is another reason you run the geny once a month to get rid of moisture that causes the to corrode.
__________________
DISNEY LOVERS
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10-30-2016, 06:01 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 2,010
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This may not be your problem but it is one that's possible, and one that many folks are totally unaware of. Basically what happens is the magnetism weakens/departs from the alternator when not run for awhile.
Here is a brief clip on what I'm speaking of - and a possible solution to reflash it.
Flash your generac portable generator with a corded drill | Jifeed.net
__________________
former 2008 Jayco Eagle 29.5 RLS
former 2014 F250 6.7 4X4, CC LB
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10-30-2016, 07:52 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayco Ro
Remember Roseanne Rosannadanna? "It's always something. If it's not one thing, it's another!" Still trying to get my neglected motorhome back in running condition. Generator would not run. Today I reinstalled the now squeaky-clean carburetor and it purred . . . no hint of a surge. I waited about 5 minutes and then decided to run it for awhile under load. When I went inside, there was no AC. Now, my old RV had a master plug which either went into the generator output box or shore power. Foolproof. My new RV has an automatic transfer switch somewhere in the power system. Generator is always connected unless plugged into shore power. I checked the obvious things: generator and RV circuit breakers. Either the generator is running but not getting power to the system, or the transfer switch is not working properly. I guess the first step is to measure the generator output, but I'm not sure how. It's an Onan Microquiet 4000 (4KY). Also, I had to clean out a rat's nest from the generator housing, but there didn't seem to be any visible damage, and no signs of any chewed wiring elsewhere.
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Many Onan generators are equipped with one or two breakers which must be On for power output.
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10-30-2016, 08:52 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Jonesboro
Posts: 10
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As far as I can tell from the manual, mine has one breaker which I have checked. Will try to reflash the magnetic field with an angle grinder.
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10-30-2016, 10:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,036
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Please let us know how that works out for you and the final resolution to the problem.
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10-31-2016, 09:15 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Jonesboro
Posts: 10
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Thanks, Wrascal! It worked! I used an angle grinder instead of a drill so I wouldn't have to have my hands on moving parts. I put down a piece of cardboard to protect the carpet when it started up. But here's the strange part: I didn't need to turn the shaft. I cranked the generator, plugged in the angle grinder and turned it on - nothing. Then as I was getting ready to turn the shaft backwards along the cardboard, it started up! The microwave light came on, and I was able to start the air conditioner. Fantastic little gem of information and thanks again!
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10-31-2016, 09:42 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Campbell Hall
Posts: 2,835
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This is the first I've heard of using a power tool to re-flash a genset. I've always had to go in with a small DC source directly on the feeds to the brushes.
Any links on where this is discussed more fully?
__________________
TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
TV 2003 F-350 "Montblanc" - Housebroken chore truck
Sitting in The Cheap Seats.
And proud of it!
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10-31-2016, 10:14 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 974
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I think your auto transfer switch finally moved. It takes up to 2 minutes depending on loads.
__________________
No man has a good enough memory to be a successful liar. Abraham Lincoln
2016 36FBTS Pinnacle
2016 F350, 6.7, 4x4, DRW, long bed
B & W Companion 5th wheel Hitch
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10-31-2016, 06:07 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 2,010
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Any links on where this is discussed more fully?
The earlier link I provided (above) has multiple postings regarding this same subject. Google will likely provide you with even more info.
I've never done this myself, but have been aware of it. I do have an old genset that was run dry (then parked) 3-4 years ago so one day I may need to do something similar.
Question: was this a metric or standard size tool <Grin>?
__________________
former 2008 Jayco Eagle 29.5 RLS
former 2014 F250 6.7 4X4, CC LB
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10-31-2016, 07:32 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 880
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Just went through this. Since Transfer Switch was under warranty, replaced it.
I had the choice to take it to a dealership or since we were at a great camping site, I changed it myself.
So got on the phone - from dealer, to Coachnet, back to dealer, to Jayco, to Progressive Dynamics, who makes the automatic transfer switch. Really only took about 20 minutes. Talked to Dennis in Technical Support at Progressive Dynamics and he helped me trouble shoot. Tech Support people are great!
He talked me through troubleshooting. Disconnected from shore power and generator off, I opened lid of transfer switch, which is under the bed and behind a panel on the 37FS.
Before I started, it was remove 11 screws and two panels. After cabinet modifications, it is now remove 1 screw and lift smaller panel off.
I digress, opened lid of transfer switch, after dealer talked me through what I was looking for. 2 black switches with lots of wires. Dennis said make sure no power, I did. He talked me right through it. Push on bar in middle of one switch, it springs down and back up. Pushed on other switch and solid as a rock. Simple diagnostics, "its broke, warranty will cover". He says, " Can you work a screw driver". I said, "I used to know how to use one". His reply, "Good enough, take pictures every step and call me if you have problems."
Dealership overnighted new switch, I replaced wire for wire and shipped bad one back to dealer. All is well. By the way, new transfer switch has a surge protector built in, old one didn't. I called Progressive Dynamics about this change in looks and the only answer was " It will work and Congratulations that's a $200 option. Enjoy!"
No clue what caused broke transfer switch, but my first thought that there was a problem was no 50 amp service and generator kept dying. Final results was a blown fuse on the large slide, under the bed in same area, now easily accessable through redesigned new panel, a blown power strip with surge protector and another surge protector.
No clue of cause of problem, but Seneca was on 20 amp for 24 hours to keep just refrig going, while rear end got a new seal at the Freightliner shop. Also warranty work. Had a very small wet spot leak that my local mechanic found.
Life's a trip. Sit back and enjoy the ride.
__________________
Smooth Sailing,
Ric and Jan Golding
Southern Illinois
2016 Jayco Seneca 37FS
2016 Chevrolet Traverse
2018 Cheverolet Silverado
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11-01-2016, 08:39 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Jonesboro
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldermike
I think your auto transfer switch finally moved. It takes up to 2 minutes depending on loads.
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Maybe so, however I had run the generator initially for several minutes (no load) before I went inside to put it under load and let it run some more. I plugged in a fan and turned it on. Didn't work. Turned on the air conditioner - same. I sat there for a few minutes reading the Jayco manual about the automatic transfer switch, then shut down the generator. Before reading the reply about reflashing the field, I had run through the above routine two more times with no results. Without knowing if there was actually power coming to the transfer switch, I guess what triggered the system back to life will remain a mystery, although one with a happy ending.
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11-01-2016, 11:38 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgolding
Just went through this. Since Transfer Switch was under warranty, replaced it.
I had the choice to take it to a dealership or since we were at a great camping site, I changed it myself.
So got on the phone - from dealer, to Coachnet, back to dealer, to Jayco, to Progressive Dynamics, who makes the automatic transfer switch. Really only took about 20 minutes. Talked to Dennis in Technical Support at Progressive Dynamics and he helped me trouble shoot. Tech Support people are great!
He talked me through troubleshooting. Disconnected from shore power and generator off, I opened lid of transfer switch, which is under the bed and behind a panel on the 37FS.
Before I started, it was remove 11 screws and two panels. After cabinet modifications, it is now remove 1 screw and lift smaller panel off.
I digress, opened lid of transfer switch, after dealer talked me through what I was looking for. 2 black switches with lots of wires. Dennis said make sure no power, I did. He talked me right through it. Push on bar in middle of one switch, it springs down and back up. Pushed on other switch and solid as a rock. Simple diagnostics, "its broke, warranty will cover". He says, " Can you work a screw driver". I said, "I used to know how to use one". His reply, "Good enough, take pictures every step and call me if you have problems."
Dealership overnighted new switch, I replaced wire for wire and shipped bad one back to dealer. All is well. By the way, new transfer switch has a surge protector built in, old one didn't. I called Progressive Dynamics about this change in looks and the only answer was " It will work and Congratulations that's a $200 option. Enjoy!"
No clue what caused broke transfer switch, but my first thought that there was a problem was no 50 amp service and generator kept dying. Final results was a blown fuse on the large slide, under the bed in same area, now easily accessable through redesigned new panel, a blown power strip with surge protector and another surge protector.
No clue of cause of problem, but Seneca was on 20 amp for 24 hours to keep just refrig going, while rear end got a new seal at the Freightliner shop. Also warranty work. Had a very small wet spot leak that my local mechanic found.
Life's a trip. Sit back and enjoy the ride.
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Sounds like welded contacts on one side of your failed switch. Did they mention a possible procedure change or ask you about your process of changing over from shore power to gen power?
__________________
No man has a good enough memory to be a successful liar. Abraham Lincoln
2016 36FBTS Pinnacle
2016 F350, 6.7, 4x4, DRW, long bed
B & W Companion 5th wheel Hitch
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