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Old 10-01-2016, 11:09 AM   #21
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If I drop the extensions to ground, mine won't level because the system won't be able to lower the nose enough. Then I have to hook back up and shorten the extensions so I can get enough travel in the front power jacks.

I can usually get by without blocks under the back, but on unlevel ground, they are frequently needed. It's easier to just toss them under the rear jacks to begin with so I don't lose the return to hitch point if it turns out they are needed.

Of course the height on my 29.5 BHDS is maxed out to match my F-350 so it may be different for your trailer
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:00 PM   #22
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I think the variable here is the starting height of your pin, which would depend on your truck and hitch setup. For many of us, dropping the front extensions down to near ground level before disconnecting our trucks puts the front end of the trailer very high and mostly non-adjustable in the retract direction. With this as a starting point, and with any mild rearward pad slope, AND with a longer trailer, the rear stabilizers really have to extend out to find "level", and in some cases, aren't long enough to actually reach "level", so the system will try to lower the front. Well, if the front was nearly fully retracted because we used too much of the front extensions, it may be bottomed out and can't find level that way either. That's when you get the message "unable to level". It's not that there's anything wrong with the system! It just can't get to level as one or more corners is maxed out in each respective corner!

Two fixes:

Don't start with front leg manual extensions fully out, which allows the system to electrically lower the nose more if needed.

Fix two is to retract all legs and place pads under the rear. This will most likely end up with one or more tires off the ground. As far as that goes, my manual states to not raise the tires off the ground. If that's the goal, i.e. not raising the tires off the ground, the fix is to use fix 1 above, which means pulling your truck back in and hitching up so that you can adjust the front extensions up a few holes.

Obviously this is a fix for rearward sloping pads. If slope is forward leaning, you'd actually want more extension up front.

As for lifting your tires off the ground, any opinions out there? I don't feel the trailer is as stable, and the manual actually cautions against it. Would love to hear some opinions!
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:46 PM   #23
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Jet tech, described the situation very well. I do drop my front extensions but only to withing about 3 holes of the ground, or the top of my block stack if I am choosing to use them on the front. That puts the front jacks partially into the stroke when lifting the pin to disconnect.

Regarding the lifting of the tires off the ground. When I perused trailers on the dealers lot all of the Jaycos with levelling systems were setup and levelled. His lot is gravel and imperfect, I noted that many of the trailers had one wheel that was not contacting the ground after they had been leveled. My opinion is that Lippert is always going to advise against lifting the wheels off the ground not because the system isn't capable but simply because of the liability should an accident happen and a user had lifted the wheels and removed the tires. That's a sticky situation to be in from a legal standpoint and one that could result in death pretty easily. If I were on the road and needed to change a flat for instance I would have no problem using the levelling system to lift the offending side off the ground to change a tire, but I'd still be very cautious about getting myself under the trailer. Anytime you lift something heavy off the ground like that you should have some redundancy under the axles to prevent it falling, but when we are travelling we don't always have everything we do at home. It's the same with a flat tire in a car, that puny little jack will get the wheel off the ground by lifting at the frame point, but I sure wouldn't trust it enough to get under the car.

With all that rambling said, we have one site that is unlevel and where I like to be in the site puts my driver side rear trailer wheel in a slight pothole. I've been too lazy to take along a shovel to fill it in so the times we have been in that site that wheel was off the ground to the point that it could be turned. Didn't think any more about using it that way as it's just like many of the RV's were setup on the dealers lot.
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:44 PM   #24
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The only times that I had problems with my 3.0 system, is when I started with too high a tow pin height...
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Old 10-02-2016, 01:04 AM   #25
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I want to clarity, I do not recommend doing what I did OR going against what your owners manual recommends. What I did was simply as a test. DO NOT try what I did.....
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Old 10-02-2016, 11:11 AM   #26
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Returning from our first trip this past week, we got a great piece of advice on leveling. One side was lower than the other, so we were advised to put boards underneath our tires on the low side raising the axles up to being very close to level and it worked great. We were struggling before these nice folks came over to offer their advice. The first time we did the auto level thing, both tires on the low end came off the ground. I will use this method every time if need be along with putting blocks under each leg extension.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:03 PM   #27
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Yeah, been using blocks on the TT to level side to side for years now

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Old 10-08-2016, 01:02 PM   #28
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Well, adjusted the pin box today (raised) so that the trailer wouldn't ride nose high, went up one hole on each bolt (bout an inch) and is nearly dead on level. Maybe sits half an inch higher in front of the trailer axle than in rear. Anyways, used the auto leveling system again for hitching and disconnecting and re-leveling, worked flawlessly this time, nice to have instructions, plus the re-zero actually level probably helped some too

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Old 10-08-2016, 01:03 PM   #29
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Still looks a little nose high, but it's good



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Old 10-08-2016, 01:04 PM   #30
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Truck sits more level than appears in picture too

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