Mods to 377 RLBH?

[MadJoker TX]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Darin,

I don’t think you need to be worried at all. Here are my reasons:

1. Your repair was done at the factory in a somewhat-controlled environment
2. Ours was done at the dealers shop with wide temperature swings and high humidity (not to mention the shop is not the neatest, cleanest shop)
3. Ours reappeared rather quickly (my case less than 2k miles in 2 months)

When Jokers crack reappeared, I knew it was only a matter of time before mine did too. Mine isn’t bad yet, but I haven’t travelled as much as Joker either so I’m sure it’ll only grow bigger. It’s going back to the dealer on Monday to get the ground Control fixed and they’ll assess the crack as well.



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My camping buddies are starting to think my wife and I are causing those cracks to keep appearing. [emoji23][emoji23]🤣🤣

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[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by jasum

Wow Tom that really suks......hopefully they will get it right this time.



We got back Tuesday and I unhooked trailer in same place as always. Put blocks under jacks and hit auto level. Rear jacks extended and then nothing?? Retracted jacks and started over.......same thing. Called LCI and they walked me thru recalibrating system. Same thing middle jacks would NOT go down.

He told me to call my dealer and tell them Lippert said the control box needs replaced.



I decided to hook back up and move trailer over a little. Unhooked truck and hit auto level and this time center jacks came down??



I’m still going to make an appointment before warranty is up just in case it decides to do it again........

Jack

Mine started the same way. Get it looked at because it’ll fail on you at the worst time! Crack problem is not preventing me from using the trailer. Not the case with leveling system. Currently I cannot raise or lower the front landing gear more than an inch.

Good luck with yours


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[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by MadJoker TX

My camping buddies are starting to think my wife and I are causing those cracks to keep appearing. [emoji23][emoji23]🤣🤣

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That’s funny! Sounds like something my buddies would say [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Jack

Mine started the same way. Get it looked at because it’ll fail on you at the worst time! Crack problem is not preventing me from using the trailer. Not the case with leveling system. Currently I cannot raise or lower the front landing gear more than an inch.

Good luck with yours


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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the same 3.0 system is still being used, even on the 18s, regardless of the different smaller control panel?

And there is no manual override function (as in human powered)?

Todd

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the same 3.0 system is still being used, even on the 18s, regardless of the different smaller control panel?



And there is no manual override function (as in human powered)?



Todd

Todd

There is a manual over ride. You need to pull the rubber plug off the top of the motor and use a 3/8” ratchet to manually raise or lower the leg. There is also a lower plug that you can access as well if you have limited clearance from above.


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[bdreinv]

We have seen Factory do repair by placing a square of material over the crack. I assumed they would drill a small hole at the end of the crack first. Repair looked pretty clean.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by bdreinv

We have seen Factory do repair by placing a square of material over the crack. I assumed they would drill a small hole at the end of the crack first. Repair looked pretty clean.

I saw a picture of something similar on another thread. But, it was a dealer repair not a factory. I wouldn’t accept that type of repair, regardless of how clean it looked.


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[Lowmiler]

This recurring failure has me reconsidering using an Andersen Ultimate hitch.

Most likely I will be upgrading my TV mid year and I wanted to avoid installing rails in my current one, which already has a gooseneck hitch in it. The Andersen would work in current and future TV, and they have their own $5mm warranty should the factory deny a frame damage claim. I figured since the Andersen really could not be introducing more stress to the frame given its fifth wheel geometry similarity, the chances of having to deal with a frame claim would be pretty small.

Now, I know the hitch is not causing this crack failure, but I could imagine complicating a smooth warranty repair process if I happened to have the Andersen installed when this design issue rears its head.

I think I'll go for a Reese Goose Box, which is Lippert approved... my new TV will have a gooseneck hitch either way to tow my race trailer.

Todd

[Magnolia Tom]

Todd

I’m not sure the hitch has anything to do with the crack. Those of us with cracks all have different hitches. But, your hunch about the Anderson hitch is right. Why give Jayco an out if yours ever cracks? I do know that goosebox hitches in general are frowned upon because they do add extra stress to the trailer. Even though the Reese is approved, If I were in your situation, I’d think about the B&W hitch that uses your existing gooseneck ball. No rails to add either.


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[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Todd

I’m not sure the hitch has anything to do with the crack. Those of us with cracks all have different hitches. But, your hunch about the Anderson hitch is right. Why give Jayco an out if yours ever cracks? I do know that goosebox hitches in general are frowned upon because they do add extra stress to the trailer. Even though the Reese is approved, If I were in your situation, I’d think about the B&W hitch that uses your existing gooseneck ball. No rails to add either.


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I've looked into the B&W, but I have a Hide-a-Hitch goose hitch, and the B&W ball does not cross over from what I am told (may have to verify that directly now).

From what I understand, the B&W only works with the ball they supply with their hitch...

Plus, I'm going to be on the edge of weight capacity as it is, and am trying to avoid adding a couple hundred pounds of non-cargo weight if I can help it. At 14,600lbs rating on my TV, I should have almost 800lbs of cargo capacity. We don't boondock, use full hookups, and have a small family, so 800lbs should cover our "stuff" pretty well until we upgrade the TV mid next year.

Caught in a dilemma!

[Magnolia Tom]

What truck do you have? I’m confused on your 14,600 lbs rating. Is that cargo capacity and should it be 4600 lbs?


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[Lowmiler]

I currently have an 04 GMC 3500 diesel dually. According to trailer life specs, I am good for 14,600 fifth wheel towing capacity (owners manual states 16,500, but I think it's wrong). 3,500bs pin weight limit spec according multiple sources.

Published dry weight of the 377 is 13,855lbs, which would leave me 745lbs cargo carrying capacity. Trying not to eat that up with a heavy 5th wheel hitch...

[Magnolia Tom]

Thanks for clarification Todd. I’d have to look at my trailer but I think the yellow sticker on mine says it weighs around 14,200. (Empty)
I think I would go with what the manual says for your tow capacity. 14,600 seems low for a diesel, even in 2004.
I used to tow with an 06 Ford dually and I didn’t have any problems pulling or stopping the 377. I believe it had a 16,500 tow rating as well. But, it also had a 5000 lbs cargo capacity.


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[MontyRV]

Has anyone relocated the bumper grill on their 337RLBH? I don't think I'm gonna like walking aroud the slide every time I check the grill. I would rather have it up by the outdoor kitchen and TV.

[Lowmiler]

I got the dry weight off of Jayco's factory site, specs for the 2018 377.

However, online ads show a yellow sticker like this, which is confusing:

https://cdn2.rvtrader.com/v1/media/5...768&quality=70

Perhaps the weight on Jayco's site is without generator installed, or the fuel, or propane tanks.

Anyway, with 525ftlbs torque on my truck, I can believe that 14,500 is the limit. My 40' enclosed race trailer has a 16k GVWR, and it's relatively a bear to get moving even when I'm not fully loaded.

[MontyRV]

My yellow sticker says 14, 254. This is empty and no generator.

[Bookemdanno]

Went out to check on her at storage today and on my way out, I noticed the gasket on the dinning slide.

[Magnolia Tom]

Dan

Looks like a trip back to the dealer is in your future


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[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Dan

Looks like a trip back to the dealer is in your future


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I was going to go anyways just to have them complete the State Inspection that’s due this month, but instead of being in & out, they’ll want me to leave it!


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[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by MontyRV

Has anyone relocated the bumper grill on their 337RLBH? I don't think I'm gonna like walking aroud the slide every time I check the grill. I would rather have it up by the outdoor kitchen and TV.

For what it's worth, that's why I didn't spec the factory grill with my build.

A. I didn't like the location
B. I could buy aftermarket cheaper
C. Either way the grill takes up room in storage somewhere when underway, so bumper mount doesn't have much advantage I can see.

Bought a Coleman Roadtrip and carry bag on Black Friday for $125 total. Sucker is very heavy, though!