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Old 12-10-2023, 10:08 AM   #1
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Adding electrical outlets

I have a 2016 23RLSW that has limited electrical outlets. There is only one duplex GFCI outlet in the kitchen on the face of the kitchen counter base cabinets. I'm thinking of adding one of the pop-up outlets with USB on the counter in front of the wall for coffee maker, toaster and charging. It will plug into the GFCI outlet.

Also in the bedroom there are two duplex outlets on the bed mattress platform that seem to be in an inconvenient place. I'm thinking of installing a duplex outlet with USB on the face of each bedside table/platform. They will be used for phone charging and maybe a small lamp. Has anyone else done this? Thoughts? Thanks
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Old 12-10-2023, 10:21 AM   #2
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I've used wire mold and their box extensions to do that. They stick out a little, but well worth it with the extra outlets.
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Old 12-10-2023, 10:43 AM   #3
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I've added outlets to our HTT, not hard. Thing to note, RV outlets are not like what we have in our homes. Take a moment and review them. I use remodeler boxes and traditional receptacles. It was ease for where I added them.
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Old 12-10-2023, 11:26 AM   #4
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Disconnect your power and look into your A/C circuit box to see if you have room for additional circuit breakers. In my Seneca, every kitchen A/C outlet was connected to the same circuit breaker. Easy to overload. I installed two 20 amp breakers and installed two external A/C boxes. I connected one outlet to each breaker. I can now use my air fryer and induction cooktop at the same time.


I removed the drawers and an access panel for access to run the wires.


Do NOT attempt to do this if you have never done any electrical work.
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Old 12-10-2023, 12:31 PM   #5
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Do NOT attempt to do this if you have never done any electrical work.

As above, this isn't the place for your first foray into wiring. But if you do have some experience make sure that you are extra careful in routing wires and make sure they will not experience wear when they go though holes over over any surface. Unlike a home, your RV will vibrate and anything vaguely sharp may saw through the wire you install. They make special fittings for holes to prevent this from happening.



Again, not for the beginner.
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Old 12-10-2023, 01:15 PM   #6
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Disconnect your power and look into your A/C circuit box to see if you have room for additional circuit breakers. In my Seneca, every kitchen A/C outlet was connected to the same circuit breaker. Easy to overload. I installed two 20 amp breakers and installed two external A/C boxes. I connected one outlet to each breaker. I can now use my air fryer and induction cooktop at the same time.


I removed the drawers and an access panel for access to run the wires.


Do NOT attempt to do this if you have never done any electrical work.
Thanks for the tips and response. I have experience with residential electrical work.

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Originally Posted by RogerR View Post
As above, this isn't the place for your first foray into wiring. But if you do have some experience make sure that you are extra careful in routing wires and make sure they will not experience wear when they go though holes over over any surface. Unlike a home, your RV will vibrate and anything vaguely sharp may saw through the wire you install. They make special fittings for holes to prevent this from happening.



Again, not for the beginner.
Thanks for the tips and response. I have experience with residential electrical work.
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Old 12-10-2023, 06:28 PM   #7
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If you are working with 12 gage romex, you have to be Houdini. I can say that the walls of an RV are only 1.5 inch deep and some of the electrical boxes that are 1.5 inches deep do not allow for 6 inches of wires to accommodate receptacles like GFCI or integrated 5v charging units (which are bigger than normal outlet receptacles). If you can manage to find a cabinet where you can install a standard electrical box, you will be much better off.
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Old 12-11-2023, 05:57 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by MrJeep View Post
I have a 2016 23RLSW that has limited electrical outlets. There is only one duplex GFCI outlet in the kitchen on the face of the kitchen counter base cabinets. I'm thinking of adding one of the pop-up outlets with USB on the counter in front of the wall for coffee maker, toaster and charging. It will plug into the GFCI outlet.
Hmmmm... I have a 2015 23RLSW, and have several more outlets than what you describe. For instance, there's one mounted on the underside of the overhead kitchen cabinets at the rear of the trailer. Also, there's one on the face of the front bench seat of the dinette, in the slide-out. And there's the outlet in the alcove under the TV.


At the beginning of this past season I replaced those last 2 duplex outlets with the kind that also have USB charging ports. It was a bit of a project because unless you can get your hands on the self-contained style that Jayco uses, you run into depth problems, as Jagiven and Grumpy pointed out.


The duplex outlets with USB ports are really deep, about the same depth as a GFCI.



For the one under the TV, I put a shallow "old workbox" in the wall and then added a Wiremold surface-mount plastic box. Under the dinette seat, I had to reposition some of the scrap wood that Jayco uses to 'hide' the original outlets inisde that area.


Also, the wall openings for self-contained outlets, etc., are too small for regular electrical work boxes; a multi-tool is helpful if you have one.


I was also pleasantly surprised to find plenty of slack wire at each location.


Pictures of the finished product are attached.


Anyway, when you go looking I would hope you'll find at least 3 more electrical outlets in your main cabin.


Good luck,


Roger
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20230422_123416.jpg   20230421_180304.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2023, 03:52 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by skids View Post
If you are working with 12 gage romex, you have to be Houdini. I can say that the walls of an RV are only 1.5 inch deep and some of the electrical boxes that are 1.5 inches deep do not allow for 6 inches of wires to accommodate receptacles like GFCI or integrated 5v charging units (which are bigger than normal outlet receptacles). If you can manage to find a cabinet where you can install a standard electrical box, you will be much better off.
I agree, that's the plan. Thanks!
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Old 12-11-2023, 04:18 PM   #10
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Hmmmm... I have a 2015 23RLSW, and have several more outlets than what you describe. For instance, there's one mounted on the underside of the overhead kitchen cabinets at the rear of the trailer. Also, there's one on the face of the front bench seat of the dinette, in the slide-out. And there's the outlet in the alcove under the TV.


At the beginning of this past season I replaced those last 2 duplex outlets with the kind that also have USB charging ports. It was a bit of a project because unless you can get your hands on the self-contained style that Jayco uses, you run into depth problems, as Jagiven and Grumpy pointed out.


The duplex outlets with USB ports are really deep, about the same depth as a GFCI.



For the one under the TV, I put a shallow "old workbox" in the wall and then added a Wiremold surface-mount plastic box. Under the dinette seat, I had to reposition some of the scrap wood that Jayco uses to 'hide' the original outlets inisde that area.


Also, the wall openings for self-contained outlets, etc., are too small for regular electrical work boxes; a multi-tool is helpful if you have one.


I was also pleasantly surprised to find plenty of slack wire at each location.


Pictures of the finished product are attached.


Anyway, when you go looking I would hope you'll find at least 3 more electrical outlets in your main cabin.


Good luck,


Roger
Well, I just went out to check and what do you know, I do have one under the cabinets and one in the dinette on the front seat base. I knew about the one under the TV. Thanks for the reply, I probably never would have found the two hidden ones. I just got this camper this past June and we haven't been able to use it yet. We are going South for two months in a week. I still plan on installing outlets in the face of the nite stands. Today I installed the pull-up outlets with USB ports into the kitchen counter. It plugs into the GFI outlet on the face of the cabinet base. It should be convenient for the coffee machine an charging.

Gene
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Old 12-12-2023, 09:01 PM   #11
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Today I installed the pull-up outlets with USB ports into the kitchen counter. It plugs into the GFI outlet on the face of the cabinet base. It should be convenient for the coffee machine an charging.

Gene
I like the pull-up outlets, that's pretty cool.


Roger
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Old 12-13-2023, 04:12 PM   #12
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I like the pull-up outlets, that's pretty cool.


Roger
Thanks! Today I finished the install of the bedroom nite stand outlets with USB ports. I'm too old for all the twisting around in a small space. I'm glad that's done! Sorry, I can't seem to fix the pic of the right side nite stand.
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Old 12-13-2023, 05:03 PM   #13
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Sorry, I can't seem to fix the pic of the right side nite stand.

Edited it correct.
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Old 12-16-2023, 03:26 PM   #14
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I ran 2 dedicated GFI outlets in my Redhawk. Using 12/2 romex. One in the bathroom on the opposite side of the vanity base cabinet, from the factory one and one in the kitchen, on the face of the sink apron. Both outlets run through the exterior walls of my RV, terminating to one of those round, water resistant, male outlets with a cover, (see link below), I plug 2 separate HD extension cords into them, from the outside and then in to a campgrounds pedestal. Now when DW dries her hair or someone is using a heavy appliance in the kitchen, we don’t trip the CG pedestal when the AC is on! Worked out great! I’ve extended a few others for convenience in the RV but they’re all on the same circuit as other stuff.

Journeyman-Pro 5278W 15 Amp 120-125 Volt, NEMA 5-15 Flanged Inlet, White Commercial Grade, 2 Pole-3 Wire, Straight Blade 110V/115V RV... https://a.co/d/4pmqEeT
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Old 12-17-2023, 09:17 AM   #15
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I need another outlet as well for my RV and was told it had to be one of those breakers or the ones that sit out from the wall. I may hire an electrician to do that one since I can't find a reliable RV guy in the area and when I do its my neighbor I have to beg for the phone which they never cough up. So if anyone from the Bangor area has someone please let me know. Otherwise I have several projects that need doing next summer. Yes this one I am following because I have at least one outlet I need for the main living space.
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Old 12-17-2023, 10:37 AM   #16
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There is this one for shallow wall. The "old works" swing tab needs exercising to prevent it from breaking.

https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B117RS...00LPTDVG&psc=1
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Old 12-18-2023, 07:48 PM   #17
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I ran 2 dedicated GFI outlets in my Redhawk. Using 12/2 romex. One in the bathroom on the opposite side of the vanity base cabinet, from the factory one and one in the kitchen, on the face of the sink apron. Both outlets run through the exterior walls of my RV, terminating to one of those round, water resistant, male outlets with a cover, (see link below), I plug 2 separate HD extension cords into them, from the outside and then in to a campgrounds pedestal. Now when DW dries her hair or someone is using a heavy appliance in the kitchen, we don’t trip the CG pedestal when the AC is on! Worked out great! I’ve extended a few others for convenience in the RV but they’re all on the same circuit as other stuff.

Journeyman-Pro 5278W 15 Amp 120-125 Volt, NEMA 5-15 Flanged Inlet, White Commercial Grade, 2 Pole-3 Wire, Straight Blade 110V/115V RV... https://a.co/d/4pmqEeT

Great Idea! Looks great, I'll keep that in mind if the need ever arises.
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Old 12-18-2023, 08:58 PM   #18
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There is this one for shallow wall. The "old works" swing tab needs exercising to prevent it from breaking.

https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B117RS...00LPTDVG&psc=1
Have you used it in those shallow walls? I tried one, still too deep. Wound up using this, then added a surface mount Wiremold box on top of it. https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B108R-...954485&sr=8-81


Interior walls in my 23RLSW are only 1.5" deep, that box you linked to is 2".



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Old 12-19-2023, 07:57 PM   #19
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Have you used it in those shallow walls? I tried one, still too deep. Wound up using this, then added a surface mount Wiremold box on top of it. https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B108R-...954485&sr=8-81


Interior walls in my 23RLSW are only 1.5" deep, that box you linked to is 2".



Roger
Well there is 1.5 inch between the walls due to nominal 2 x 4, then you add some for the "quarter inch" paneling and there is that amount beyond that for the wall plate, etc etc. This is just some relief on the side for romex and attachments. I add that the side area allows for a detachment of a plate for access to attaching wiring and it snaps right back on. You do have to have enough length of wiring to use it or come uo with alternatives.
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Old 12-19-2023, 10:13 PM   #20
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Well there is 1.5 inch between the walls due to nominal 2 x 4, then you add some for the "quarter inch" paneling and there is that amount beyond that for the wall plate, etc etc. This is just some relief on the side for romex and attachments. I add that the side area allows for a detachment of a plate for access to attaching wiring and it snaps right back on. You do have to have enough length of wiring to use it or come uo with alternatives.
The biggest problem I ran into is the curved back of the box. Even though I could get it in the wall, there was no way to get a USB/duplex outlet in there - not enough available depth. Those outlets are about 1.5" deep, roughly the same depth as a GFCI or AFCI.


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