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Old 03-02-2011, 06:23 AM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bellefonte, PA
Posts: 167
Smile Permanent Site Setup

Getting ready to move our 2010 G2 31BHDS to its permanent site the beginning of April in central PA. Need your advice on what wood lengths I need for under tires, corner jacks, hitch jack, etc. I am planning on using treated 2 x 8's but just not sure what lengths to cut them to. Thinking about using 2" tk. x 12" lg. cement blocks to set the wood on top of to support the corner jacks and hitch jack. Any advice would be great.

Jayco 2012 36BHDS
On permanent site in Central PA
Denny, Melissa, Talia (granddaughter) & Tango (Golden)
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:13 AM   #2
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414

At my seasonal camp site, I installed 6 x 6-ton axle stands under our TT. Due to chassis ground clearance, these axle standards are at their max extenaion height. Next time around, I would use 6 x larger 12-ton axle stands instead. If wondering, my TT has factory scissor jacks within its corners and much stronger axle stands its middle frame position as well. Thus, eliminating its floor bounce. For these supporting contact points, I leveled the ground, poured 1/4 bag of 1/4" crushed gravel (for water drainage), then put a large patio stone on the gravel. I then put 2x6 @ 18" long boards down (on the patio stone), then put the axle stands on this wood. Our TT's telescopic tonque jack is on patio stone, cement block, 2x6 @ 8" long wood as well. Thus, our trailer has NO direct steel to cement patio stone contact. The wood allows it some give (for settling and frost shifting) and some electrical isolation as well. Under its tires, think I use 2 x 10s boards at approx 6 ft long. Below laying down the board, I poured gravel where the board would go. Thus, allowing some water drainage under the board (with helps reduce rotting).

For a few pictures, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0663.jpg - before spray faom.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg - after spray foam.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0700.jpg - after spray foam.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_1388.jpg - on patio stone / floating deck.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_1352.jpg - on patio stone / floating deck.

This May, I'll be installing a removeable "hard top" on our TT's slide. Currently, it has NO slide and after 4 months usage, the top of our slide looks like: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0358.jpg You might want to install a slide cover (aka: Slide topper) over your slide's flat roof as well. Being a fixed site, you might want to install a removable hard top - like my TT.

Hope this helps...


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Old 03-02-2011, 07:26 AM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414

I'd recommend good "surge protection" on the TT's main line as well. Many folks like the TRC Surge Guard ( http://c0386591.cdn2.cloudfiles.rack...-17090-1_1.jpg ) or the Progressive ( http://tweetys.com/electrical-manage...re-30-AMP.aspx ). The Progressive brand has Usage display and a few other better features. If wondering, my TRC Surge Protection on my TT installed as: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_2044.jpg

Hope this helps as well....

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Old 03-02-2011, 07:27 AM   #4
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3,646
I'm on a seasonal site and put down cement blocks that are used for basements for the stabs to rest on. I cut the PT wood to fit the tops of the blocks. That way the stabs don't have to extend so far. The cement blocks are placed parallel with the stabs. I don't remember exactly what length I cut the boards for under the tires, but I know they extend about a foot in the front and back of the tires. I also put a full length roof shingle between the board and tires, granuals facing down, to help keep the ground moisture away from the tires as was recommended by our dealer. Our jack stand sits on a 2X12 piece of PT wood about 15" long.

X2 on the surge protector. I use a Progressive Industries.
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