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Old 04-02-2015, 05:55 AM   #31
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jeffersonville
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Most of the problems I've seen w/ EZ Lube is people using them incorrectly. "I'll put a squirt of grease in every year just in case" is not what they're designed for. Same goes for when grease is applied using high pressure applicators (ie, grease guns with the yard long handles or electric or compressor-powered guns). Those types will blow the seal, which EZLube's docs warn you about. I've always used a short-arm hand held grease gun and I've never had a seal leak on any EZ Lube trailer axle I've worked on. I don't disagree when people want to tear down the entire wheel to inspect every component, but I do disagree when the basis for doing so is a normal grease repack when the grease coming out is in good shape, the hub's never shown signs of heating, there's no leak, etc. I think a lot of folks fail to check the rubber dust caps or replace them if they crack or get bent; considering the caps are a buck in a lot of cases, it's worth keeping a couple in the glove box and swapping them if there's any doubt about their integrity. Good grease that's washout resistant and designed for high-temp use which is replaced with the same formulation each time will give the best results. Swapping grease types, not keeping the seals or covers in good condition, or never replacing the entirety of the grease is, IMO, what causes most EZ Lube issues. IANAL, YMMV, etc

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Old 04-02-2015, 08:25 AM   #32
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4,111
I have yet t redo the grease in my HTT yet. Been on the to do list for way to long. Hopefully this spring/early summer. How much grease would you estimate each hub will require?

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Old 04-02-2015, 08:55 AM   #33
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A couple of tubes will do you per axle with a complete replacement (and you'll still have grease from the 2nd tube in the gun). I like to drive it a bit to warm everything up but it's not hard either way. Once you're ready, jack up the wheel so it can be turned freely, pop the dust cover, hook up to the zerk, pump til enough grease has been displaced you need to scrape it off with a paint stir stick (or your fingers, TBH) and dispose of it, repeating, then turn the wheel a few times, and repeat the process of pump til you scrape, turn the wheel, pump etc until the grease coming out is the same color as it's going in. If you don't know what was in there, plan to repeat the process a few weeks later to prevent any contaminated grease from causing breakdown (which will cause it to separate and go liquid and THAT is when it easily gets on the brakes) . So, for a single axle unit and needing to swap it twice over, you'll prolly use 3 tubes and will know you're both good to go in terms of all new grease and you'll know it was 100% turned over inside the cavity with no contamination. I'm a fan of the red lithium grease like the lucas red & tacky but Dexter has lists of what they approve. I paid 4 bucks a tube at Rural King last time I picked it up so for under $15 to do an axle and replace the dust caps it's an easy thing.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:16 AM   #34
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Cary
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Grease Gun Suggestions?

I'm about to undertake this procedure, thanks to all for the suggestions and guidance. I don't own my own grease gun. Can anyone make a recommendation on what I beg/borrow/steal?

2010 Jayco 1206

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