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Old 09-15-2015, 03:15 PM   #21
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 386
Thanks Todd. I am looking for details on such system. The difference I would like to make are batteries which would be probably AGM deep cycle as I am planing to have the batteries inside the trailer.

Do you have the panels in different parts of the roof or all of them are in one place?

How long does it take to install such setup? Trying to estimate the cost of labor.

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Old 09-15-2015, 04:13 PM   #22
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Calgary
Posts: 796
I went with a pretty simple system as shown in my mods thread.

It consists of;

Trimetric SC2030 charge controller
Trimetric 2030-RV battery monitor (highly recommended!)
Two 150Watt "12 volt" panels
Two 6volt batteries
Wire and circuit breakers
Also added a 600W modified sine-wave inverter.

This system works amazingly well....
I have disconnected my onboard converter as a test and I have never turned it back on so the solar is the only thing that maintains the batteries. I have never needed to add power to the batteries from shore or generator power. So far anyway after 30 nights of camping.

The two Trimetric units are around $300 and then add on whatever you want for solar panels and you can have a pretty good system for fairly low cost if you have decent batteries already. If not add the cost of batteries as well.

2014 Jayco Swift 281BHS, 300W Solar!
2015 F250 XLT 4x4 Crew Cab, Short box, 6.2 gas
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Old 09-15-2015, 04:21 PM   #23
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Havre
Posts: 148
The Universal Power Group 6V 200 AH UB62000 G27 battery is a AGM deep cycle battery.

My panels are two abreast at the front of my travel trailer. Installation of the panels was quick. Probably about 2-1/2 hours. Renogy makes it relatively simple. The battery compartment on the tongue of my trailer took another hour to make it fit. I used an ATV cage to hold the batteries. Will need to modify that now that I'm entering winter months. I think I am going to remove the G27 plastic containers around each battery, place a seedling heat mat (used by the greenhouse industry) beneath the batteries to help keep them warm (https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/MT10006), shock absorbing insulation between and around the batteries, and installing a low temperature switch that will turn on the mat when the temperature dips below 50 degrees or so and when hooked up to shore power. Still researching that.

I used a friend to help me with the wiring and configuration of the rest. Once we figured out what we were doing it only took 2 or 3 hours to do the rest.

If you go to this link you will see a rough wiring diagram we came up with:


The Go Power! TS-30 30 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch is installed under my sink near the fuse box and near where shore power comes into the cabin. My inverter is installed under the bed. The meters, alarm, controls, etc. are installed on the side of the pedestal next to the bed.
Todd Klassy
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:52 PM   #24
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Prescott
Posts: 12
I put a solar panel up on the roof today just 100 Watts. Tomorrow connect the wires. Looking for ward to see how it works. Have a750watts inverter
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:28 PM   #25
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Tucson
Posts: 316
As far as lights go, we use the little stick-on LEDs for dry camping. They're not daylight-bright, but they're enough.

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