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Old 10-08-2014, 08:32 AM   #11
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5.3 L V8 extended cab with tow package. What year? What gears? This info makes a difference. Towing capacity goes up every generation of truck and/or engine redesign. And gearing can make or break your ability to tow your dream trailer.

The trailer itself should be level or slightly down in front.

Rear squat of the truck is normal to some extent. Don't focus on that, as said, focus on restoring the fender height back to what is was before hooking the trailer up. That's a GM specification that is outlined in your truck's manual.

As far as max tongue weight goes, that spec is in your manual also. Mine is 1200# with a W/D hitch.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:50 AM   #12
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I believe when I remeasured the front fenders
it went UP 2-3 inches
truck is a 09
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:05 AM   #13
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You are out of truck so to speak. I have been there myself. Timbrens to control the squat in setting up, then reset ball height based upon how it sits without the bars, and then max out your bars and measure. That's a first pass and you may have to go back to step one and adjust your ball height again. Then you're done until you trade on a 3/4-1 ton truck.
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjs1955 View Post
I believe when I remeasured the front fenders
it went UP 2-3 inches
truck is a 09

1. To make your truck front end rise so much means that your springs are out of adjustment with your loaded trailer.

2. If both the back end of your truck and the front end of the trailer are dipping down when hooked up for camping, then your hitch head is too low.

refer to your hitch installation instructions.
- when hooked up, measure trailer height front and rear. then unhook trailer and raise/lower hitch head to level trailer.

- check your instructions on how to ensure your hitch head tilt is correct. When hooked up and ready to camp, your spring bars should be parallel to the TT tongue with enough tension to return your truck to near level (as recommended by your truck manual).

I'm sure you know this, but you are probably towing the max your truck can take. Neither airbags nor add-a-leaf springs in the back will change your tow capacity, they will just help level your truck if needed.

Tim
2008 26BHS (9300 GVW)
2010 CCLB Ram w/cummins
Reese strait-line WD hitch w/1000# bars
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjs1955 View Post
I believe when I remeasured the front fenders
it went UP 2-3 inches
truck is a 09
So your truck is very similar to mine, same drive train. You say the trailer is 5915# unloaded? If that's the case you are not going to like the towing experience. Loaded with your toys you're going to be closer to 6k, and probably higher than that. I'm towing close to 5k# loaded. It tows like a dream. I feel I could easily add another 1000#, but not much more than that.
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:06 AM   #16
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Hello, first post: I just ordered a new octane 273. I'll be towing it with 2004 gmc sierra 2500 hd duramax. I'm looking for advice on a WDH with sway control. I just got a new hitch for the truck. A curt class 5 with 2" reciever. Trying to get an idea what style guys are useing. I kind of like the reese straightline dual cam design. Is there a difference between the round bar and trunnion style? I get different figures on UVW for this trailer. (5700 and 6400 more or less). I seem to come up with the need for 10,000/1000 hitch capacity, but that hitch only comes in 10,000/800 or 12,000/1200. Is it better to go heavier than needed or right at the limit and maybe a bit to light? Kind of came up with this. Thanks for the help.

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66083.html
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